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DFI Lanprty NF4 UltraD

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If I get desperate. I think the garage will work. -5c on average these days should give the air cooler an edge. Funny I just noticed this AMD stock cooler was made by cooler master. Trying out the OCZ right now I think it's going to do better. Maybe not as fast but much better timings
 
Well the proof is in the pics. The new bios helped managed to get the GEIL over 250 but loose timings. The one place it really made a difference was in Catzilla. about 10% on the score. Thanks for your help Scotty, I appreciate it. I think I'm going to have to set this up in the garage. No heat out there and I'm using an FX8350 cooler on it ATM since I don't really have anything else that fits the stock AMD bracket. WB won't accommodate the 2 hole set-up either. So 2800 ish is about as far as I can go.

View attachment 173794
View attachment 173795

That's a really good OC in air.
I've had to modify the plate to my block so it would run 1155 stuff and was easy to do so creating the two holes for 939 use shoudn't be a big deal..... Provided the plate or bracket has material to work with in that location. Blocks for a 939 shouldn't be too bad to find and if need be you could probrably even make your own plate or bracket, I've done that a few times as well.

Definitely had to make my own plate when I made my pots.

EDIT: Here's one you could get, maybe not the best but it's a start:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZALMAN-ZM-W...607730?hash=item33b053b432:g:vf8AAOSwwE5WZirq

This looks to be something you could use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Water-C...671759?hash=item58d317c28f:g:LoMAAOxyhTFSQHod

And this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-W...998375?hash=item4acb74a1e7:g:nVsAAOxywXFSdCvn

Probrably need to get one of these for my use, the OCZ block I've used for years now still works good but getting a little long in the tooth if you will.
 
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I looked at that. I do have the material on the brackets too. Funny my top has a hole in the centre like that but it's off just a bit. None on the bottom. The garage will work just fine right now anyway and that 8350 cooler works pretty good. Shave off 25c ambient should give it some legs. I think with those pics I was getting a FSB stoppage. I'm working it lower this time and it seems to be going further.
 
Mr.Bruce may have his work cut out for him. Moved to the garage that helped a lot.

r11 1.48.JPG

r15 131.JPG
 
Shawn, There are many more aggressive bios's. Just depends on whether you're running 2D or 3D apps and what ram you're using. You can always PM me for anything you need.
 
Thanks man cause I think I'm gonna need it I'm almost at 3.0 but ran into difficulty and had to quit. Kids here for supper. You know I'm using Samsung on both kits. I like the OCZ better and out there can put some more volts to it. PM incoming
 
Awesome thread, really brings back memories, my NF4 Ultra D was my favorite motherboard of all time.
 
I like it so far just a bit different.
 
If you like knob twisting, that 939 board will keep you amused for years.
Probably my favorite platform.
 
It was actually my first self build with a AV8 and 3800 wasn't really into it like I am now so a lot of the knobs went untwisted.
 
The AV8 pales in comparison to the the DFI boards. I have a few different 939 boards.
 
As a former DFI Street member and one of Rgone's sidekicks I can probably help you out. :)
Use your resources.
4 sticks is not what you want to bench on 939 let alone DFI. Very picky boards.
The right bios is the key, and there are about a billion of them.
Picky ram board. Need to use the right slots pending the type of IC's.
Battery NEEDS to be 3v, no less, and it'll suck batteries down like there's no tomorrow.
Ask specific questions and I'll do the best I can. For all the modded bios's, you know where to go. ;)
+1, yeah don't run 4 sticks if you're benching it, only if you're using it at a 24/7 stable OC. I ran with four sticks in my SLI-DR Expert for 4GB, but I didn't have a very aggressive overclock on it for regular usage as a backup PC.

The old socket 939 DFI's are finicky as hell about RAM. If you've got Winbond BH-5 they typically run best in the Yellow slots, Samsung TCCD and basically anything else liked running in the Orange slots. I had some ram that absolutely wouldn't run with my DFI boards, and some that it had no problem with. Seemed to run nicely with Corsair, Mushkin, and OCZ, but hated Kingston though (just never could get it to run with a Kingston kit).

2x512MB kits were typically best, as I never really ran across a 2x1GB kit that liked to overclock all that well. By the time 1GB sticks became "the norm" most manufacturers seemed to have given up on "high performance" DDR memory, think they were starting the switchover to DDR2 around that time.

The primary RAM slots (the one's you must have a stick in to boot) are the one's farthest from the CPU. Yeah, it's weird, I never understood why they did it that way.

What IC's are you running on your RAM sticks?

You probably shouldn't go past where you're at now on your Vcore. 1.6v is really pushing it on a stock cooler, personally I would have stopped short of 1.55v.
 
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I'm just reviewing the ram list and that OCZ might actually be TCCD the label says 2-2-25 3200 . Thanks for the tips.
The core temp was barely hitting 40c I moved out to the garage,
 
I run a couple different sets of Kingston BH-5 without issue, so don't let that scare you. I can go cas 1.5 to well over 250.

Temps for 939 are pretty much limited to 50c. Obviously colder is better.......to a point. Much CB and CBB to be had.
 
I run a couple different sets of Kingston BH-5 without issue, so don't let that scare you. I can go cas 1.5 to well over 250.

Temps for 939 are pretty much limited to 50c. Obviously colder is better.......to a point. Much CB and CBB to be had.

Maybe just bad luck for me then. I could never get Kingston to run in my SLI-DR or SLI-DR Expert.

Also never managed to get CAS 1.5 to run at all. Always resulted in a no-boot scenario when I tried it with BH-5 or anything else. Not sure if one of your modded bios'es is the trick to getting that to work or not though.
 
Sample on the Kingston sticks. Just the first one I came across. I can do better.

image_id_1365094.jpeg
 
Nice stuff for sure man, gotta keep my eyes out for something like that. That OCZ was running slow in the last shot. Thos timings at 235 with 1.29 v was working. I dropped back working on core clock. Still not quite the same as yours.
 
Got an issue the thing crashed and now I get 3 leds the fans spins etc.. but no post. Tried different VGA/Mem/CPU. I also have followed this guide but it gets two lights and I don't hear a beep with the jumper in the right spot for speaker. How long does it take before a beep?

The proper Clear CMOS recovery. Not to be confused with a Normal CMOS Clear.

You can not use a USB keyboard for this procedure. You must use a PS2 keyboard.

You will need your manual to find the jumpers that must be changed.

If you skip or miss any step you must start again since the results will not be valid.
Remove power from the rig by pulling the plug or switching the PSU off.

Move the PC Speaker jumper to the ON position.

Remove the Battery.

Move the CMOS jumper to CLEAR.

Press the Start Button on the case or motherboard to drain the capacitors.

You may leave the board in this condition for as long as it takes to clear the CMOS. If a short 30 second clear or a 15 minute clear doesn't work, try an 8 hour clear.

Plug in a PS2 Keyboard.

Put one stick of RAM in the slot marked DIMM2.

Move the CMOS jumper to Normal.

Replace the Battery.

Press and hold the Insert Key on the Keyboard.

Apply power to the rig by plugging the power in or using the switch on the PSU.

Press the Start Button to power the rig up.

When you hear the BEEP, release the Insert Key and press the Delete Key on the Keyboard.

Once you enter the BIOS set the DATE and TIME then Load Optimized Defaults.

Save and Exit.

Enter the BIOS again and set it up the way you want for your particular rig.
 
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