Enthoo Primo Pre-Emptive Build - Help

[Mark617]

So, I bought the Seasonic from Newegg today and just sold it for a tidy profit, because I need to save for what it's going to cost by the time Jack and ATM get done helping me lol. So, I am not going to buy any parts per se, Christmas is coming up and I need to buy about $1000 worth of parts that will be "future proof." What I mean is I am going to buy now / through Christmas those parts I will definitely keep / use for some time.

1) Case = Enthoo Primo ($235)
2) PSU = EVGA SuperNOVA 850w G2 ($140)

So, that leaves about $600 to spend on my WC setup. My computers will never be anything fancy, I am going mainly for a gaming rig - WoW, Skyrim, Dark Souls, and the like. The MAIN purpose of going WC is the noise factor. But, if I buy stuff now, I want to be set in the future in case I go SLI etc. Meaning, I would prefer to spend now to save later (if that makes sense). That being said, I was thinking something like this guy's setup -

There are some issues though. I cannot mount the res in the way he did because if I went with, say a G1 Gaming 970, it would be too long to fit with the bracket. So, I was thinking, since I have no real use for drive bays, maybe putting the res there - something like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...rvoir_-_Black_Delrin.html?tl=g30c97s168#blank. Then I would simply copy his loop, with another 480 on the bottom, like these - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...20mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570. Now, of course, it would depend on whether I could fit this on top, I would need 105 mm of clearance with the fans, I will need to verify that first.

So I will edit this, because I am at work, but for now it's a work in progress. I need to grab a 655 pump (or some variant, like the 350). Will one pump be enough to run it?

I know it's overkill. I get it. But isn't that what we do here?

 

[Mark617]

So adding to this I would grab a Swiftech MCP655 and mount behind the center panel along the bottom. I plan to run mostly flex tube, the Primo LRT stuff everyone is raving about. I will grab the necessary Bitspower pieces for connections. Probably all compression fittings and then set up a drain / T-Line near the pump or bottom res hidden by the front panel.

What alterations should be made?

My route (in theory) will be Bot Rad -> GPU -> Top Rad -> CPU -> Res -> Pump -> Bot Rad

 

[Hippogriff]

I am watercooling my Enthoo Primo, too.

As reservoir, I followed the suggestion of JackBauer and got a Monsoon D5 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Control_-_Matte_Black_w_White_M2-D5P-WH.html

As far as I know you cannot put a Monsta in P/P on the top and a UT60 is somewhat borderline. I am putting a XT45 and I think it is somewhat its natural size.
In the bottom you can put whatever you want.

UT60 and Monsta have a sort of drain port and I attached a little valve to it. I saw other people doing something similar, but not sure is a good idea (this is my first custom loop)

 

[Mark617]

Yeah, been following some of your posts. Very good. The drain on the bottom is perfect and putting the pump with the res saves me a connection.

I assumed top clearance was an issue, but looking at the 480 xt 45 I would only be at 71 mm. So surely that must fit, not too much else seems to be much smaller. I like that I can add fans to the top outside portion.

Also, on the monsoon, where would you put it? In the bottom of those top trays? I was thinking maybe I could add a small section of tubing, which when needing to fill it, I could simply remove a couple of the 5.25 covers, pull the little tube out, put in the funnel, and fill it. Wasn't sure if there would be room to route a small section of tube between the 480 top rad and the roof for easy access.

 

[Hippogriff]

My Monsoon is now sitting in the bottom tray. So far I made sure that the tube from the bottom rad is long enough to be able to pull the reservoir out. However, it is probably a bit too long and I will probably have to shorten it.

Your idea sounds actually better.

 

[Mark617]

Ideally I would like to make a connection on the upper right hole (when looking at the bay) and connect some tube from there right up the side of the 5.25 tray to the very top, hopefully have enough room to fit it between the end of my rad and the corner of the case. Could put a small cap / plug on the top and whenever I needed to refill it would be a matter of removing the top. It's how my current loop is set (made a homemade res out of a bottle) and it made things much easier.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

You usually want the reservoir at the highest point to get the trapped air out of the loop. So you'll want the reservoir at the somewhat highest point or your top rads and or blocks will have trapped air in them. Air trapped can impede in the loops full potential.

 

[Mark617]

Ok Jack, well then, it looks like the res will sit in the highest 5.25 bay. So, I may be limited to a 360 (possibly a 420, will measure once I have the case) in the top. Which is fine. With that monster 480 in the bottom, I can't see being that strapped. Plus, having access to bays will allow a fan controller etc. So, no real loss unless you see a reasonable way around the issue. But even so, I did not see a way to do this without a fan controller somewhere. Figured that many fans would pose a problem for any MB / Case controller.

So something like the following -

Monster 480mm rad in the bottom
XT45 360 (maybe 420) up top
Monsoon Res in the front bays with attached MCP655 pump.
LRT Tubing
Bitspower connections as needed, with a drainage setup on that bottom rad
CPU / GPU Heatsinks

Fans - with this many fans I am not really willing to buy a bunch of NB E-Loops at near $30 a piece. Would something like the Helix 120 or Yate Loon D12SL-12 suffice?

 

[Hippogriff]

With my XT45 480, I have to put the reservoir in the second slot. Unless you have the last fan only in pull.

 

[Mark617]

With my XT45 480, I have to put the reservoir in the second slot. Unless you have the last fan only in pull.

Yeah see, I don't want to mess that much with it. I think a 360 or 420 in the top (looks like it will be a 360 based on what you have said) should be fine. The only other option was to use the top pull out 5.25 modular bays to put my fan controllers in. Which, no doubt, is an option, but I have read without the one under it the top one hangs awkwardly. So, may as well use the 5.25s in the front as I can't see a 360 and a 480 NOT being enough for what I want. Any opinions on it Hippogriff let me know. Until I have my case in hand it's all speculation.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Wait, what components will you be water cooling? A 360 up top and a 480 in the bottom is more than enough for a CPU + 2 GPUs in SLI/Xfire and silent operations and you should have room for a fan controller unless you're going with all PWM fans.

Do some searches of your case and water cooling setups. I know we have a few here and many more out there to give you a peace of mind and check the tube for some videos. Take your time, not in a rush and think things through and lets us know.

Also I might add, make sure the tubing is PrimoChill Advanced LRT because it can get confused with their old tubing (LRT Pro).

 

[Mark617]

Right now Jack it will only be a single CPU and GPU. I may go SLI down the road, and with that I suppose I could go for less. I just figured go big or go home lol. Really my issue is that I have to somehow give out about $1000 in a Christmas list, and I really do not need anything, so I was going to use that buffer on this stuff then throw the parts in later. Obviously, it's just for gaming so the typical build - OC'd 4690k with a / some 970s.

I really would prefer a fan controller, because even looking at Pierre's build in this case, I am just not sure how I feel throwing all those (17 if my count is correct) fans on the case controller / MB when a cheap controller can handle it fine and be tossed in an otherwise unused 5.25 bay.

And yeah, thanks on the tubing differentiation. I am looking at the acrylic stuff just for kicks atm and it makes me want to give it a go since I can truly be patient with this thing. But I am not sure I am that patient. The videos make it look easy, but most of what I read says it is not. And, I tend to think things are not as easy as a lot of people make out. Especially with my temperament.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Yeah, stick with regular tubing.

For fans, you could go PWM and use a PWM hub that powers the fans and only gets the PWM signal from the single PWM MB header or you could go all analog and just use a fan controller. Either way works fine. Just make sure you get some nice fans for those rads.

I also went big, ridiculously overkill but I said the hell with it since I am keeping this setup for a very long time and anything I throw at it it will handle no problem with OCing headroom and low performing fan speeds for silent operations.

Make sure to do some measurements for that case because that Monsta is ginormous. Make sure to get the rads that won't require any case moding.

As for watercooling in general, patience is key or you'll half *** things through and it will look like crap. Since you're spending that kind of money, take your time on it all and make it look good. You'll be patting yourself on the back later on when all is said and done.

 

[Mark617]

Yeah, stick with regular tubing.

For fans, you could go PWN and use a PWM hub that powers the fans and only gets the PWM single from the single PWM MB header or you could go all analog and just use a fan controller. Either way works fine. Just make sure you get some nice fans for those rads.

I also went big, ridiculously overkill but I said the hell with it since I am keeping this setup for a very long time and anything I throw at it it will handle no problem with OCing headroom and low performing fan speeds for silent operations.

Make sure to do some measurements for that case because that Monsta is ginormous. Make sure to get the rads that won't require any case moding.

As for watercooling in general, patience is key or you'll half *** things through and it will look like crap. Since you're spending that kind of money, take your time on it all and make it look good. You'll be patting yourself on the back later on when all is said and done.

What's your opinion on fans? I had looked at either the Yate Loon D12's or the Helix 120s. I just do not think I can justify, even if I do not pay for it, spending $25+ a pop on NB e-loops, or corsair SPs, Typhoons etc. I just have a hard time seeing the actual benefit there.

As for a fan controller or working out the hub, that is like the last bridge I will cross.

As for the case and the Monsta the link I provided at the start was a guy with it. Unless I read the layout incorrectly for screws etc. it should fit fine in the bottom. I am waiting on Phanteks CS to respond back with my questions regarding an XT 360 up top with the Monsta in the bottom. Modding the case is the LAST thing I want to do. Plus, I think this is the exact build Hippo is working with.

I currently have a WC system members here helped me build and actually built (some guy built my radiator from a car radiator) ten years ago. I have had no problems although on my last build I got cocky and didn't leak test and of course it leaked. So, I am trying to get back on the horse as they say with this build. The nice thing is that computer is up and running and does fine. So, taking my time will be easier on this one.

 

[Hippogriff]

The enthoo primo has a PWM hub with 8 headers. So I guess that you can easily connect a good amount of fans.

Missed the part talking about Pierre. You can always get one of those cheap PWM splitters (http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx) and split your fans between the integrated hub and the additional one.

E-loops have apparently problems when used in pull. So, I eventually ditched them and went for Noctua

 

[Mark617]

Hey Hippogriff, had a question, do you already have your monsoon res and top rad? I am curious if I get the monsoon, can I put it in the top bay with the attached pump with a 360 in push pull? Or, will the back of the res / pump infringe on the pushing fan? I am going to stick with basically what you have suggested / Pierre did, and use an XT45 360 there. BUT, if I could fit a 420 I would do that instead. I am having a hard time being able to tell if a 420 in PP would fit, or if the pump off the rear of the monsoon will cause problems. The measurements show about a 4.5 inch depth on the res with the pump, so it looks like it would be a close / snug fit.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

A 360 up top in most cases shouldn't bother the bay areas. Its when you use a 420 or 480 that becomes problematic but hearing from Hipp would be a great idea on this since he has it at hand.