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Finally!!! My watercooling is up!

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Give it a couple days altec, it should go down more when the thermal paste sets in. Glad to hear your processor isn't toast. I should get my WW tomorrow. You liking yours so far? :D
 
Yeah, its a good block from what I can tell...

I hope that I can figure out how to make this temperature drop. Hopefully I can find a way to get the BIOS flash so that I can know what my temps really are. My main rig still has no internet connection, and my laptop has no floppy or port for a floppy...so I need somewhere to make a new BIOS disk.

Kind of frustrating that I spent so much $ on this setup and the temp is just about the same as my air cooling was. :(
 
To get all air out of my rad, i just took and turned it upside down. To my surprise there was a lot of air in there even after 1 week of use.
 
Well it seems that the god of overclocking do not want my watercooling to go well.

I was looking at the block this afternoon, and it didnt look like it was seated totally evenly, so I stuck my hands in there to mount it a little better. Right when I finished, I was taking my hands out praying that this would make the temps drop some, and I set the computer upright to put the window on, and the tubing slid off the outlet of the pump, bumping water and antifreeze all over my motherboard. I had a hose clamp on it, and I made sure it was super tight before I put the loop into my case. This is just ridiculous...everything that could have gone wrong has. It is drying right now.

What is the probability that the stuff will live? I am a little concerned since I am 17, have no money, and have probably invested over $2000 into the machine.

:( :cry: :bang head :cry: :(
 
As long as your machine wasn't on when this happened, if you let your board and other components dry, there's a good chance that you didn't damage anything. I'd let it dry for a few days and then try it. I wouldn't be surprised if it works perfectly for you afterwards.
 
How long should I let it dry for? it has been like 3 1/2 hours...and there aren't anymore noticeable wet spots.
 
I would let it dry for at least another day before trying to boot up. Don't let your impatience murder your computer - trust me on this! I fried a processor a while back after I lapped it. I had too much water on the sandpaper and some of it seeped below part of the PCB on my Willamette P4. I was impatient and tried to boot after about 6 hours of drying... I fried the processor.
 
I am gonna let it dry for like 24hrs. Will there be any negative results if I take a blow-dryer to it for small intervals of time?
 
I'd stick a house/desk fan blowing on it.

If you don't have that, I'd take any Pc fan you have, and power it off another computer blowing on your new computer.

With the hairdryer on fan or low heat it should be ok though.
 
altec said:
I am gonna let it dry for like 24hrs. Will there be any negative results if I take a blow-dryer to it for small intervals of time?

Nope. No negative effects.

This will help to speed up the evaporation process, but be sure to still let it dry for at least 24 hrs.
 
Remember Antifreeze is petroleum based product and will leave an oily film on whatever it came in contact with. I have to ask, why are you using Antifreeze?
 
Dodgeviper: The water additive I am using is a Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant that has very good corrosion inhibiting properties. Is this a bad choice, if so for what reason? Also what will the effect of the oily film that may be left on the motherboard? Is there anything that I can do that is relatively safe to get it off?

I think I will try to use the hair-dryer idea, but for short ammounts of time. I am most concerned about the water seeping into the areas that I simply cannot get to with a paper towel or toilet paper because of the capacitors and other odds and ends on the motherboard. Is there any other way to get in there well? ??I tried using Q-tips and they do not seem to be very absorbant...they only smear the water around. Thanks for the help.
 
I would visit to your local electronic parts store (NOT RADIO SHACK) and purchase a contact cleaner that is safe to be used on the motherboard. These type of prouducts evaporate very quickly when sprayed onto the board. It will clean and dry out the MOBO.

Next time just use distilled water and Water Wetter. If I am not mistaken you are not mixing aluminum and copper in your system. Water Wetter can be purchased at Pep Boy's.....
 
I have some water wetter, but I did not know if it stopped corosion, and if it stopped bacterial growth, so I used the antifreeze. What ratio of Water Wetter to water should I use? If I do not have any means to get any contact cleaner, what should I do. I dont have a drivers liscense...and the only electronics store around here is Radio Shack...
 
the pump needs to match the set-up very well or efficiency will drop like a rock.

It isn't the relative velocity adding pressure. It's the restriction that adds back pressure. Remember with the WW the actual flow rate is decreased. Unlike adding a bigger pump where the flow rate itself creates the added pressure.

don't go overboard with the pump Cathar considers the WW a mid-flow block and warns against using anything larger than a Eheim 1250 and states even that is operating inefficiantly. Dumping too much heat back into the system.

I'd think a Eheim 1048, Hydor L20 or Danner 250 would be about perfect.

If the computer wasnt on when the hose came detached you will probably be O.K. BUt man that would have scared the !*$#@! out of me. GOOD LUCK.
 
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I feel bad for ya Altec...hope that all will work out well.

Chances are you'll be OK if you let it dry out. Get some paper towel and work carefully on all the spots that has some grease/moisture.

It happended to me...some coolant had leaked into my agp slot and VGA card ..and after I dried it out properly, it still works.

This is why I prefer an external rig.
 
I think if I were you Altec, I'd buy a bottle of 99% Isopropyl Alchohol (rubbing alchohol) and then submerge my motherboard in a container full of the alchohal. That would do a fairly good job of cleaning off some (if not all) of the antifreeze, and it would dry off fairly quickly too afterwards.
 
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PerpetualBliss said:
the pump needs to match the set-up very well or efficiency will drop like a rock.

It isn't the relative velocity adding pressure. It's the restriction that adds back pressure. Remember with the WW the actual flow rate is decreased. Unlike adding a bigger pump where the flow rate itself creates the added pressure.

don't go overboard with the pump Cathar considers the WW a mid-flow block and warns against using anything larger than a Eheim 1250 and states even that is operating inefficiantly. Dumping too much heat back into the system.

I'd think a Eheim 1048, Hydor L20 or Danner 250 would be about perfect.

If the computer wasnt on when the hose came detached you will probably be O.K. BUt man that would have scared the !*$#@! out of me. GOOD LUCK.


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altec, :thup:

but i dont really understand, what does flashing the bios do? and if your not sure about your temps just reach in and touch it. ;)

good luck!! i hope you get it to go 2.6 or faster!!

one thing that might be the case, is even though your temps arent that much lower, maybe the w/c will keep them from rising as easily, so you might be able to up the vcore and speed and the temp wont rise much :)
 
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