First water cool setup comments and suggestions needed.

[Automiketic]

i think im finally gonna step up from air cooling to water here in the next couple of weeks and i need some suggestions. first of this is gonna be for the benching rig listed in my signature. the cpu is gonna be put under a lot stress(benching at 1.6+vcore) and i want to make sure it stays cool. i have decided if i am going to do 2 completely seperate loops or just one as i plan to cool a gx2 somewhere down the road and possibly the nb. heres is what i plan to get for the cpu only atm.

D-TEK FuZion v2
10' of 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
Laing D4/MCP650
2xDanger Den High-Flow Fitting (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)(for rad)
PTS Ultimate Radiator Combo: MCR320-QP Edition(w/HS Yate's)
The following 2 parts will be used as a res:
1/2" OD Anti-Microbial T-Fitting
Swiftech 1/2" Fillport Fitting.

~$250 w/shipping to 13027.

now if anyone knows of a cheaper place to get of these items please let me know. all suggestions and comments are welcome as this will be my first time getting wet. thanks in advance.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

great setup! thats basically what i have accept my pump is a D5. other then that its the same stuff.

it keeps my quad very cool. Load temps using Small FFT's i hit tops 44C @ 3.5GHz at 1.39v

another good thing with water cooling is you can dunk the rad in a bucket of ice for some quick bench's. in my case i have a portable 1 ton AC unit i can aim at my pc. i have been able to get 4.2GHz from my quad and i'm sure i can get more i just need a winter jacket and time.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=403482

 

[Automiketic]

nice im actually planning on using some of the NE low temps to my advantage and plan to stick my rad in the window during benching runs gets well below 0f here during the winter so im thinking i may need to use some antifreeze in my system, i figure ill get some of hondas synthetic coolant, its very thin and clean, doesnt tend to gunk up like most regular coolant.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

ya same here, i used to put my whole case outside but i tend to only bench when i get a new video card or proc. so i haven't had it outside lately.

as much of a pain as it is, i would run distilled water and PT nuke for your everyday coolant and the antifreeze when you bench.

one thing i wish i did, and will do later on is add a second T for a drain, it would really help with water changes.

 

[Automiketic]

so u dont recommend using antifreeze all the time then? thing is i dont run my bench rig 24/7 only when i bench. i plan to use a seperate psu so i can leave the pump running 24/7 tho. good idea/bad idea?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

i wouldn't leave the pump running 24/7. just hook the start up wire to your benching psu and you won't have to worry about it.

it will be fine with antifreeze in there but i used Penstion G11 (VW antifreeze) and my tubes clouded up on me. i'm not sure if it was the tubing or the clearflex 60 itself. i now run water and pt nuke and haven't had any clouding.


here is a pic of my current temps with Small FFT's just for fun

 

[Automiketic]

one thing i did notice is many people run a push pull setup does that make a big diff in temps? i actually plan to set up my fans in a pull setup most likely just to keep them safe from the elements. another thing i was thinking with temps hitting close -20c at times up here do u think ill need to prep my board as i would for dry ice, phase or ln2?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

i do have my rad with a push pull config how ever i don't know how much of a difference it makes with just 3 vs 6 fans. i have all my fans wired to 1 molex so i can't even test the theory.

now as to the condensation issue when i ran my rig outside, it was about -10C and the most i left it out there was 10 minutes. i never saw any condensation so i kept doing it. if your going to be running that cold on that 1 spot instead of all over then i'm not sure. my cpu only went as low as 12C or so. maybe make a post in the extreme section just to make sure otherwise wait for others to chime in here.

 

[Automiketic]

thanks for the info and suggestions so far. after doing a lil further research i found this block as well. Swiftech Apogee™ GTZ. just wondering if its worth the couple of extra $$$. ne 1 have ne experience with both?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

if the GTZ was out at the time i would have gotten it. the only thing i don't like about the GTZ is that you can only tighten so far. it makes it easy in one sense but i bet you can get a degree or 2 out of a tighter contact.

Marten says its a tie between the 2 blocks so get which ever one you want.

here is his review

 

[Blazing fire]

I am one who always recommend 7/16"ID tubes over 1/2". That's my personal opinion and some will disagree. These are my reasons: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showpost.php?p=3114991&postcount=5

The advantages of using 7/16” ID tubing instead 1/2" tubing
7/16" ID Tubing is replacing 1/2" ID but many people don't know why . To a person new to watercooling it doesn't make sense. Here are the reasons
:: 7/16" fits on 1/2" barbs very tightly. It seals better on barbs than 1/2" tubing so it is less prone to leak. :: It has tighter bend radius so it doesn’t kink as easily as 1/2" tubing. Using thicker walled 7/16" tubing allows even better turn radius
:: Smaller OD of 7/16" tubing makes it look slimmer, more appealing, blocks less airflow, and easier to setup. :: Gets the same flow rates as ½” tubing. Flow rates are limited by restrictions caused by 1/2" barb, not the tubing which has the same diameter of 7/16” tubing.

Drawbacks of using 7/16” tubing
:: 7/16” is harder to install over ½” barbs. They are perfect for ½” hiflow metal barbs since the tubing slips on easier and off metal barbs. They are a tight fit over ½” plastic barbs. Even 1/2” tubing on ½” plastic barbs doesn’t just slip on or off easily. They are hard to install on perfect seal ½” metal barbs and harder on plastic barbs on D5/MCP 655 pump :: This requires heating the 7/16” tubing ends in hot water, not boiling. I like to microwave hot water in a coffee mug. Once the tubing ends gets soft and rubbery, they are easier to install over the barbs. Using a blow dryer or heat gun on the tubing also works but hot water works easier.

Therefore, you may want to go with this: 7/16"ID, 11/16"OD or 5/8"OD..

There's another thing I'll like to change for your setup and that's the barb. Barbs are crucial in providing a good seal so I'll invest some money on that. Your best choice is the 12mm id, 14mm od bitspower barb, otherwise, get the dd fatboyl (out of stock).

Just a note, if you want to save some money, you could buy from sidewinder or jabtech as their prices are slightly lower. Their customer service is not bad too, comparable to PTS.

 

[Conumdrum]

Yea, the best tubing is this or that. I don't think it's a loop breaker at all. Masterclear is cheap, it works, it clouds a bit easier. Tygon costs more, clouds less. 1/2 ID vs 7/16 ID is not a big deal either. If I had built 25-30 loops and used both I'd be in a position to say whats best. Blaze has some really nice links he dug up which pretty much sums it up. But neither of us are experts, we both have just two loops under both of our belts.

Barbs.... No reason to replace the metal ones that come with the parts you buy. Unless your looking for that .025 GPM increase (meaningless). Your not building a rocket ship or testing stuff after doing this for 5 years or so. There are nice ones that can make flow rates a bit (bit) better, a waste of your $$ unless your really going for the perfect setup and are a Prince from Dubai.

All I can say is I used 1/2 ID OD and it was fine. Don't fret it, we spend wayyy to much time on the tiny things.

Buy the best quality you can afford, and make it work. It's not terribly hard to do.

Ever seen the pure copper tubing loop someone built? Amazing!!!! Glad we don't have to spend hours justifying that in post after post about tubing .................

There is watercooling, then there is nitpicking extreme.

Sidewinder, Jabtech, Petras, Danger Den, Performance PC's all are good places. But Petras is just the nicest folks ever. I bought by cost and availibility, they all treat me good.

PS. PT-Nuke stuff from Petras bottle is just a few $$ and will last for tons of loops. I don't know if that one piece of plastic is enuff for anti-growth. If so, thats awesome. I need to ask Petra's opinion on another forum. I'd rather spend $5 and be safe. I run Tygon silver tubing and PT-Nuke, loop is spotless 5 months later. And I mean shiny spotless water and res. Again, just what I do, and many others recoomend. I started like you did, 3 months after reading and learning I made my parts list and started asking quiestions.

 

[Automiketic]

thanks for all the info folks mayb i will stick with the v2. i do have abottle of pt nuke in my cart as well just didnt add it 2 the list since i figured everyone puts this stuff in. the barbs that i have in there are stricky to replace the the crappy plastic ones on the rad. thanks for the comments guys keep em comming.

 

[Conumdrum]

Straight from Alex (Petra's):

Ian's silver coils should do a fine job of preventing growth due to the coils, essentially, depositing silver into the coolant (which acts as a biocide). The Tee fitting, on the other hand, is only going to protect itself (anything which is free floating in the coolant and comes in contact with the fitting for a certain period of time may be killed, but it's not going to keep the whole loop algae/bacteria free).

Assuming that the individual asking is running straight distilled water, then either the KillCoils or the Nuke -PHN would be fine.

-Alex
__________________
I'm doing science and I'm still alive...

 

[inkfx]

Is this water setup going to be strictly for that bench rig? If so, why not go sub-zero and pick up a container? Dry ice and LN2 are your friend.

 

[Blazing fire]

Barbs.... No reason to replace the metal ones that come with the parts you buy. Unless your looking for that .025 GPM increase (meaningless). Your not building a rocket ship or testing stuff after doing this for 5 years or so. There are nice ones that can make flow rates a bit (bit) better, a waste of your $$ unless your really going for the perfect setup and are a Prince from Dubai.

...

Ever seen the pure copper tubing loop someone built? Amazing!!!! Glad we don't have to spend hours justifying that in post after post about tubing .................

There is watercooling, then there is nitpicking extreme.

I'm not talking about flow. I'm talking about seal. . Clampless using ek barbs = leaks that I've heard of. Clamplesss using bitspower barb = no leaks that I know of. Don't get me wrong though. I'm not recommending clampless. I just want you to be happy with your first built and that you won't have any leaks. That's Conumdrum goal, so is mine. It is true that those leaks are because of tubes poping out of the barb and that's because of the absence of clamps. In this case, there is clamps but my worry is that he may not tigten it enough, thus causing a leak.

Like I said, it's personal perferance. You don't have to start a flame war because of what I feel.

 

[Conumdrum]

I'm not talking about flow. I'm talking about seal. . Clampless using ek barbs = leaks that I've heard of. Clamplesss using bitspower barb = no leaks that I know of. Don't get me wrong though. I'm not recommending clampless. I just want you to be happy with your first built and that you won't have any leaks. That's Conumdrum goal, so is mine. It is true that those leaks are because of tubes poping out of the barb and that's because of the absence of clamps. In this case, there is clamps but my worry is that he may not tigten it enough, thus causing a leak.

Like I said, it's personal perferance. You don't have to start a flame war because of what I feel.

Naa, just trying to get the OP what he needs. No reason to buy special barbs if he clamps it right. Your mentioning clampless. Like the thread on XS, started by you, going clampless is just plain wrong. And your running clampless..................

For the Op to read:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=210501

Hose issue, not a big deal what he uses. It will work with the choices we have given him.

 

[Automiketic]

wow thnx for the wealth of info guys. so i have done a lil revising and i think this is what im going to do:
6 high speed yate loons
mcr 320
15' masterlcear hose instead as its $3 cheaper a foot and i could care less if my lines get cloudy this is a bench rig not a show pony.
Laing D4/MCP650
2xDanger Den High-Flow Fitting (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)(for rad)
1/2" OD Anti-Microbial T-Fitting (not for cleaning the loop)
pt nuke
Swiftech 1/2" Fillport Fitting.
apogee gtz
of course im still gonna put some anti freeze in as well because of the temps my loop should run at.
@inkfx: i was considering going to ln2 or dice but just not quite ready for that yet. that will be the next step.

 

[Blazing fire]

...Don't get me wrong though. I'm not recommending clampless. I just want you to be happy with your first built and that you won't have any leaks.

...

Naa, just trying to get the OP what he needs. No reason to buy special barbs if he clamps it right. Your mentioning clampless. Like the thread on XS, started by you, going clampless is just plain wrong. And your running clampless..................

For the Op to read:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=210501

Hose issue, not a big deal what he uses. It will work with the choices we have given him.

You're very funny. Btw, thanks for point out the thread I started. Hope it would be put to good use.

 

[Automiketic]

just wanted to add/clarify that i will be using clamps all the way through out. worm drive clamps that are sleeved.