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FX-8120 with Noctua NH-D14 overheating

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If you're going to spend the cash a better motherboard would go further than a new case. Just my opinion.

I going to buy new case and coolers for motherboard. If i change motherboard i will have to buy another windows license and that is too much.
 
I going to buy new case and coolers for motherboard. If i change motherboard i will have to buy another windows license and that is too much.

Says who?
You don't need a new license if you change to another MB.
You need a new if you do NOT decommission the "old" one..iow you can not use ONE license on TWO machines, but if the "old" no longer exists you can transfer the license to a new machine.
It IS possible that you can not register/validate online, but that you have to phone microsoft and tell them that your motherboard burned up; but afaik there is no need to buy a new license.
 
I know, i read license, but current mainboard is working and if i call to MS and tell them, that it burn up, i can not use it anymore. In any case, it is my work PC, a talk my boss about this.
 
Says who?
You don't need a new license if you change to another MB.
You need a new if you do NOT decommission the "old" one..iow you can not use ONE license on TWO machines, but if the "old" no longer exists you can transfer the license to a new machine.
It IS possible that you can not register/validate online, but that you have to phone microsoft and tell them that your motherboard burned up; but afaik there is no need to buy a new license.

You're correct rollie. I've had to call a couple times and they just want you to verify that it's only on one machine. Then they give you a code over the phone. Takes about 10 minutes maybe. It's all automated you don't have to give any reasons or excuses.

I know, i read license, but current mainboard is working and if i call to MS and tell them, that it burn up, i can not use it anymore. In any case, it is my work PC, a talk my boss about this.


You can reuse that Mobo just with a different windows license. Or sell it!
 
OP writes >> BIOS is the latest version. Turbocore is disabled = When Turbocore is disabled the cpu then turns ALL eight cores on. That does not mean if setup correctly that the cpu cannot throttle the speeds back but ALL 8 cores will be enabled and that is n0t how AMD designed the chip to run and why many of the lesser boards with lesser VRM circuits struggle and often even die overtime.

Few people are actually prepared for the HEAT generated as an 8 Core FX processor runs with ALL 8 cores enabled. When the cpu is then pushed and ALL 8 cores speed up and the power requirement rises dramatically and so does the HEAT. A great amount of heat not just from the CPU which has the cooler mounted on it.

I can actually feel the heat coming from my VRM heat sinks at a distance of 8 to 10 inches or so from the VRM sinks. Of course feeling the heat from a distance is good because the VRM heatsinks are removing the heat from the VRM but that heat has to go somewhere. Or said another way, that VRM heat must be displaced in some way from inside the case. If not that VRM heat is just circulated thru the CPU cooler. ON my CHV mobo, I have a 92mm fan blowing directly on the VRM sinks to help remove the hot air coming off the VRM sinks.

The smaller cases without a good path of air in at the bottom front and exit higher at the rear of the case are going to have a problem dealing with the HEAT being generated by the use of an 8 core FX processor. Unexpected heat from the CPU itself and then also from the heat generated by the power circuit (VRM) feeding the CPU.
 
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Turbocore does not disable cores, it just do some overclock and rise vcore then cores is under load.

By the way, how do you mount fans to mainboard heatsinks and mobo?
 
Hey,

I kinda read some replies but only skimmed over them.

Some of these suggestions you've already recieved but I'll double confirm them for you.

1) you need front intake fans. At least one. If you have a side panel slot, put an intake fan there too. If you have a top opening, put one there too...and last but not least, rear exhaust. Also, check that your Noctua is not running on ULNA or LNA specs. Did you attach the blue/black cable to your noctua fans? They are used to slow them down. Remove those cables and try again.

2) If you're going to make any purchases, I'd recommend a new case. If you're happy with your other components then that's fine. I ran a C2D until last month and was happy with it but it was time to upgrade.

3) Don't worry about CoolLabs Thermal Pastes. The noctua TP is really good. Not as good as the liquid metals but not worth using one of those unless you're delidding.

4) Get good fans. Don't have to be Noctuas, but crap fans = noise and low CFM (air moved)

Try to find something with around 80cfm/20-22db for a 140mm or around 50cfm for a 120mm. I picked up BitFenix fans for 60% off (because they were white lol) and honestly spending $9/fan instead of $22/fan for Noctuas is a no brainer. Yeah they are not as good but who cares for that price.
 
So,

1) While installing Noctua i decided to not limit fans speed, so i did not used any speed limit connectors, all fans running at their maximum speed.

2) I am already order new case (Aerocool Vs-92) and two front, one side, one up fans and fans for motherboard heatsinks and mobo.

3) I originally thought so. Is a famous cooler manufacturer will attach poor TP? I think not.

4) I choose Cooler Master, they price is not high, but they pretty silent and creates normal airflow. As far as i can see, ofcourse :)

Only one thing bothers me now, how do i attach fans to MB heatsinks? I do not want to use screws.
 
1) How much experience do you have with applying thermal paste? Do you use a rice size grain in the center or spread a smooth thin layer on the cpu HS?

I personally don't like the rice grain in the center...with the massive HS's such as yours and mine, I've tested several times and the center is always bare and the thermal paste spread to the outside of the HS.

2) Motherboard fans? The motherboard is usually the coolest component inside your case. What temp is your motherboard showing? The hottest thing in my case on idle is my old 10k rpm WD raptor drive at 37celcius.
 
Two sided tape or cable ties will work
Two sided tape will not melt from the heat? Or you not talk about office two sided tape? :)

1) How much experience do you have with applying thermal paste? Do you use a rice size grain in the center or spread a smooth thin layer on the cpu HS?

I personally don't like the rice grain in the center...with the massive HS's such as yours and mine, I've tested several times and the center is always bare and the thermal paste spread to the outside of the HS.
I have some experience. Instead of putting it in the center i prefer use silicone spatula to spread all cpu surface with thin layer of thermal paste. In my opinion it is more effective. Also, i check every time, that no thermal paste beyond cpu cover.
But last time i tried apply thermal paste as said in Noctua manual - rice size in the center. But then i will be changing case i better apply thermal paste as i always do - with help of silicone spatula.

2) Motherboard fans? The motherboard is usually the coolest component inside your case. What temp is your motherboard showing? The hottest thing in my case on idle is my old 10k rpm WD raptor drive at 37celcius.

There is no fans on ASUS M5A97, so i will install them by myself, as Johan45 recommended. AIDA64 and ASUS AI Suite shows 33-34 degrees under load, but when i touch them i can not hold my finger more than 3 seconds, they hot.
 
Back in the days when I mechaniced and read the trade related articles all the time, I came across a tidbit that has oddly stuck with me. The average mechanic work-hardened hands could handle/hold items that were at 140F for extended periods of time. 10 seconds and beyond if I remember that old article. 140F is roughly 60c. And you say you cannot stand the heat for over about 3 seconds...the VRM sinks must be pretty warm.

I just touched my CHV VRMs and could hold my hand on them forever if I pleased to do so. FX-8350 at 4.6Ghz with 1.42Vcore and CPU-NB at 1.28V. I completely agree with the notion that more phases in the VRM circuit are less prone to heat. I have only tested water cooling since moving the FX 8 core processors in Aug of 2012 and just swapped a giant air cooler onto my cpu last night. At the moment I am not even using my 92mm fan pointed at my VRMs and yet they are not even hot to the touch. Maybe it is all the air now being pulled over the Mosfet sinks by the giant azz air cooler. Not sure how it will all turn out since I just made the switch last night. Only time will tell the full tale.
RGone...
 
I just touched my CHV VRMs and could hold my hand on them forever if I pleased to do so. FX-8350 at 4.6Ghz with 1.42Vcore and CPU-NB at 1.28V. I completely agree with the notion that more phases in the VRM circuit are less prone to heat. I have only tested water cooling since moving the FX 8 core processors in Aug of 2012 and just swapped a giant air cooler onto my cpu last night. At the moment I am not even using my 92mm fan pointed at my VRMs and yet they are not even hot to the touch. Maybe it is all the air now being pulled over the Mosfet sinks by the giant azz air cooler. Not sure how it will all turn out since I just made the switch last night. Only time will tell the full tale.
RGone...
Gonester, I can tell you I am not very sensitive to heat due to cooking at home a lot. However, when I had the 8350 on my M5A99X Evo the Nb Heatsink was painful to touch with the tip of my finger. I could have held it there but it was really hot.
 
Gonester, I can tell you I am not very sensitive to heat due to cooking at home a lot. However, when I had the 8350 on my M5A99X Evo the Nb Heatsink was painful to touch with the tip of my finger. I could have held it there but it was really hot.

Yepper same here the Sabertooth barely breaks a sweat at realistic clocks.
 
silicone spatula is probably very thick?

best tool to use is a piece of an old credit card, you cut the portion you need and bend it in half. Make sure you clean it before using and after you wipe the excess, clean it again before you start spreading the thermal paste more.

Bending the card in half allows you to hold one half while you spread the paste with the other half...works quite nicely and the card is much stiffer than a spatula.
 
silicone spatula is probably very thick?

best tool to use is a piece of an old credit card, you cut the portion you need and bend it in half. Make sure you clean it before using and after you wipe the excess, clean it again before you start spreading the thermal paste more.

Bending the card in half allows you to hold one half while you spread the paste with the other half...works quite nicely and the card is much stiffer than a spatula.

That works and I have done it, but sometimes it will cause air pockets in the tim.
 
Gonester, I can tell you I am not very sensitive to heat due to cooking at home a lot. However, when I had the 8350 on my M5A99X Evo the Nb Heatsink was painful to touch with the tip of my finger. I could have held it there but it was really hot.

Johan45 said:
Yepper same here the Sabertooth barely breaks a sweat at realistic clocks.

Thanks for the headsup Manny. I bet you are correct in that the VRMs of the 99X EVO are not the same as on your ex-wonky CHV. Hope the newer board is doing fine.

"Johan", I be thinking u iz erect in that the Saber thing is not breaking a sweat at the VRM location. I bet "manny's" CHV did not either.

I just jumped my air-cooled FX-8350 to 4.8Ghz after finishing 2 hours of OCCT P95 Blend @ 4.6Ghz. I just laid a whole finger on my VRMs and there is nada for heat there. Not on the sinks themselves but you *can feel* the heat coming from the rig clocked to 4.8Ghz. You can come thru the door into the room and get over to the desk and the heat is rolling off the system. 8 cores runs h0t when pushed in an overclock for dang sure. We have tried and tried to say that for others to hear and yet we still get these under-buys. At that point there is little more we can do. We have said the same thing for nearing 2 years now. I am sure that at stock with TurboCore only raising the clock when all parameters of lower loading and current draw and temps are met, that an FX can live and do well on a lesser setup, but after that all bets are OFF.

I have basically had to raise my "earlier known" Vcore by 0.02 volts to get stable at 4.6Ghz. I expect that as a result of the greater air-cooled temps. Now to see if I can get a real 4.8Ghz on air stable and then I will put up pics and stuff over in my long FX-8350 thread.
RGone...ster.
 
Vrm's on the CHV are barely warm to the touch, I actually just got done running prime 2 hours at my 24/7 OC but now with the Ram @ 1866 and it passed. I guess it was after all the BIOS?!?!

Overclocking, the 8350 on AIR I did a bit on the EVO up to 4.4 and noticed I needed more Cpu V with the EVO/Air. I'm thinking the added heat + 6+2 Vrm section is the culprit. With yours you think it's the added heat, I know when I was really putting my foot on the neck of mine doing the Cinebench contest in March I believe. I dropped my room temps to about 40f my water temp was 16c and I was definitely using less Cpu V to get there.
 
Vrm's on the CHV are barely warm to the touch, I actually just got done running prime 2 hours at my 24/7 OC but now with the Ram @ 1866 and it passed. I guess it was after all the BIOS?!?!

Overclocking, the 8350 on AIR I did a bit on the EVO up to 4.4 and noticed I needed more Cpu V with the EVO/Air. I'm thinking the added heat + 6+2 Vrm section is the culprit. With yours you think it's the added heat, I know when I was really putting my foot on the neck of mine doing the Cinebench contest in March I believe. I dropped my room temps to about 40f my water temp was 16c and I was definitely using less Cpu V to get there.

Yes since I did not change the mobo or bios or cpu but went big air and the temps now start at 33c/16c instead of 16c/0c...just about has to be temps. Well in my short circuited brain anyway.
RGone...ster.
 
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