How can I tell if a UPS Battery Backup is killing off my components?

[mortimer]

I find it amazing that APC is still in business putting out units that perform that 'well' . I went with a Belkin. This one. Got it about a year ago for $129.99 delivered. Works like a champ.

 

[c627627]

Yeah. We think we save but end up paying more in the long run. At least one of the APC's I have was free after rebate or better, the others were $10 or less after rebate.

I don't know about their better line, as you can see from Sam's links, batteries are only $20.

But yes, I will ended up paying more in the long run if it turns out they killed my equipment.

 

[greenmaji]

I think I would be fileing a claim agianst there "insurance" on connected equipment If I were you.

 

[c627627]

Just received a replacement.

Will test then report on results.

 

[c627627]

It was only charged a little bit, I didn't wait overnight since both battery and the replacement unit was clearly used with some scratch marks etc. on it.
121 V
83 V

So now the first thing I'll do in addition to waiting overnight for this replacement to fully charge is get a True RMS Multi meter, then retest everything.

If it also shows such low voltages, I'll escalate the problem with APC.


For now I am giving them the benefit of the doubt as the replacement unit which I assume was tested is giving me low voltage results as well so I need to take my cheap multi meter out of the equation.

 

[Yuriman]

I just tested my 2 UPSs. I have a smaller APC 350 ES for my secondary PC and cable modem, router, phone, and stuff. With no load (PC off) it was 119.0v with power on, and ~92v on battery. On my main backup, an APC NS1250, it was 120.4v on house current and 97.5v on battery, with my PC and 21" monitor being powered by it. This has me worried.... I really would like clean power to my stuff all the time. My UPS kicks in 4 or 5 times a week due to voltage drops below 105v, or excessive line noise, but if this is what it's putting out, why even bother?

I tested mine with a true RMS meter. But, its also Radioshack brand, so I don't know how far I can trust it.

 

[Silversinksam]

Hrmm thanks...some readings from that unit could be very interesting. Looking at their website, the CS line seems geared towards businesses, and has a much higher street price than the ES line (which C6 and I have).

They must be using superior components in the CS line. These days, it seems like every manufacturer has a "value" or budget line, so you can never trust a brand on name alone.

I buy that specific model on the cheap on Ebay, I ask the seller to ship them without the battery, I then just buy new batteries for them. So many people put them up for sale on Ebay when the batteries die. Apparently they don't know you can get a new battery for $20 shipped.

I find it amazing that APC is still in business putting out units that perform that 'well' . I went with a Belkin. This one. Got it about a year ago for $129.99 delivered. Works like a champ.

Looks like our Mr B seems to like that model as well, he even left a review there.

 

[orionlion82]

did you happen to recover your multimeter and get a reading SSS?
i would be interested to see how your outputs might differ from the standard (budget?) model.

 

[Silversinksam]

did you happen to recover your multimeter and get a reading SSS?
i would be interested to see how your outputs might differ from the standard (budget?) model.

Not yet, As luck would have it, my friend went out of town.

 

[c627627]

Even after more than 24 hours of charging, I get similar results as yesterday with the replacement I received:
121 V connected
82 V battery powered.

It'll be a week before I get a True RMS multimeter after which I'll retake measurements on all of them.


Hopefully Ned Flanders ↑ will get his multimeter by then too so when I call them, at least I'll have several results to go on.

 

[orionlion82]

hmmm... it came to you in the box and read 83V
one day later AFTER you charged it it reads 82V
...
for reference, i just looked up the minimum voltage a PcP&C needs
note that this is likely as low of an honest spec youll get.
http://www.pcpowercooling.com/support/faqs.htm

90V
EDIT:
just checked my minimum on my wall-mart-special IC power small flat panel -
100V

 

[c627627]

These things fluctuate, it doesn't read a specific number, it jumps up and down +/-1V at least.

 

[c627627]

Customer Service says that it has to be a TRUE RMS multimeter otherwise we'll get approximations in the 80's like I did.


So basically they're saying the measurements are no good unless it's a True RMS multimeter.

 

[spikester]

I have an ES500 unit myself, on battery I happen to get exactly 100V. Tested with my trusty Hioki 3801.

 

[c627627]

Is it a True RMS meter?

They will not discuss any voltages unless they're measured with a True RMS multimeter.

If you claim the voltage is low, you're asked to provide brand & model number of the multimeter.

And they claim to know if the readings are done with a True RMS multimeter or not "because of the readings you're getting, they're approximated...etc."


I just scored one, yest it's Radio Shack but it says True RMS right on the manual. As soon as I get it, there will be no excuse for low voltage readings I'm getting...

 

[Max0r]

Fascinating discussion. I have wanted to get a UPS for some time and was checking the forums to see which ones are good... and then I see THIS? Holy moly =/

 

[c627627]

The True RMS Multimeter arrived. Guys it's time to throw away those crapo multimeters as I measured 4 models with both crapometer as well as True RMS multimeter with full power / battery power:

Brand new APC model 725VA425 (425 Watts):
True RMS: 119.6 / 108.6
Crapometer: 124.6 / 78.1

Brand new APC model 500VA300 (300 Watts):
True RMS: 119.6 / 110.2
Crapometer: 124.3 / 84.3

Replacement APC model 500VA300 (300 Watts):
True RMS: 119.7 / 109.5
Crapometer: 124.1 / 85.1


and finally, the suspected serial killer
APC model 500VA300 (300 Watts):
True RMS: 119.1 / 107.6
Crapometer: 124.1 / 80.2



Now what?

 

[orionlion82]

check the minimum input voltages for the make/model of all the parts fried.

if it undervolted them, it undervolted them.
this machine is designed to prevent damage from power fluctuations and the like, no?
and if it undervolted them and damaged them, the UPS is a failed product.

allso, see what your voltages are with the actual loads you had on them were, from full charge, regular load, down to the warning buzzer/auto shut-off. maybe they sag with load?

as long as you never exceeded the ratings by running too much off them, and you find a problem like this in reality you still have a problem you still have a leg to stand on.

 

[c627627]

Thanks for a good suggestion orionlion82. Even under full load the suspected killer is powering at least 108 volts off of an old battery which is well within specs.

I either had coincidental multiple failures or internal parts of the battery backup inaccessible to me could be faulty.


I guess you could say we've reached inconclusive results although it has to be said that True RMS multimeter helped lift the veil of suspicion from the battery backups.



Now the question is: Shold I reconnect the APC and run my computer & LCD off of it?

 

[greenmaji]

Now the question is: Shold I reconnect the APC and run my computer & LCD off of it?

Check the min. voltage requirements of this equipment first before testing, then you know when to stop the experiment before damage is done.
Of course the power requirements of the equipment cant excede the rating of the UPS but I figured I'd though "check that to" in there anyway.