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How to Mod the D and Ultra-D to SataII and SLI
- Thread starter THunDA
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2005
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
dawei213 said:Got it? Good! Now remember to post some benchies once you get SLi working!
Well I figured out why my Expert was sucking ***. It's because I installed the new chipset drivers on it and once I went back to my Ultra-D I was having the same problem because I was still using the same drives.
So I uninstalled everything, used driver cleaner, did a fresh install of 6.53's and whalla. I was back to 2.8GHz on my Toledo and stable, but my vid cards was running hot cause there was not much space in between them so I decided to go back to Expert and it worked like a charm with 6.53 chipset drivers.
Here is a quick shot of 3DMark 05 on Expert board:
- Joined
- May 12, 2005
- Location
- Home... again
sweet !
- Thread Starter
- #126
Vexx said:I'm thinking about doing this mod. but I swear i heard something about nvidia released a driver that won't work with the mod?
After the mod the board IS reconized as an SLI board and nothing else..
There is no way that drivers can tell you did the mod.. !
So if you heard that drivers can prevent this mod all you heard was false rumors..
edit.. typos
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2005
- Location
- Houston, TX
Yes you can use a #2 pencil. There's one brand that supposedly works best but I can't think of it off the top of my head.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2001
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
So, if I buy a LanParty NF4 Ultra-D for $107, I can use a pencil to make it a $170 SLI-D?
I was looking at the pictures of the boards on Newegg, and they look literally Identical!
You guys rule.
That is all.
Thanks
I was looking at the pictures of the boards on Newegg, and they look literally Identical!
You guys rule.
That is all.
Thanks
SLI Mod works!
I bought my Ultra D board used on Ebay about a month ago. Hadn't done the mod as GT cards were pretty expensive at the time. Just now purchased two Asus 6600GT's for $120 and swapped out my SuperTalent memory for OCZ (as SuperTalent would not post on my Ultra D!). Getting to and cleaning up the Nforce 4 Ultra chip was easy. Seeing the connections to modify was not that easy. It takes a good eye or a good clear magnifying glass. I used a credit card type magnifying glass. In any case, the important part about my post here is that I did not have two contacts (as shown in these instructions: http://forums.amd.com/lofiversion/index.php/t69353.html) to connect. Instead, I found a small raised area (1/8 inch round or so) of hard epoxy which when I scraped away simply found what appeared to be a gold or copper area the same size as the raised epoxy area. I thought for sure the mod wasn't going to work and that I had ruined my board. I pencil lined it anyway. I kinda gave up after that thinking I had a chip that nvidia or DFI had made more difficult to mod. I cleaned up the chip and heatsink and put original Arctic Silver on the chip and put it all back together. I put back in my original ATI EAX600XT and booted her up. I uninstalled all my ATI software (planning to install my two GT cards anyway) and shut it down and installed my GT's. Sure enough, when it booted, the post showed SLI! Figure that out! Again, I'll make clear that I did not have two bumps to connect with the No2 pencil. I changed a couple settings in the BIOS, installed Nvidia drivers, the Asus Enhanced Driver and Forceware and sure enough I have SLI. Oh, by the way, I'm running SLI without the SLI bridge! Without the bridge you get an Nvidia popup message informing you that it will run faster if you use a bridge. I tried it out on Unreal Tournament 2004 with all video settings cranked up. Awesome graphics and fast! I don't know how to test frame rates or do any of that technical stuff. I'm worried that my pencil line will wear off. Anyone know if I should cover it in an epoxy or something? If so, what should I use? I hope this lengthy post is useful to others. Previous posts in this thread have been very helpful to me.
I bought my Ultra D board used on Ebay about a month ago. Hadn't done the mod as GT cards were pretty expensive at the time. Just now purchased two Asus 6600GT's for $120 and swapped out my SuperTalent memory for OCZ (as SuperTalent would not post on my Ultra D!). Getting to and cleaning up the Nforce 4 Ultra chip was easy. Seeing the connections to modify was not that easy. It takes a good eye or a good clear magnifying glass. I used a credit card type magnifying glass. In any case, the important part about my post here is that I did not have two contacts (as shown in these instructions: http://forums.amd.com/lofiversion/index.php/t69353.html) to connect. Instead, I found a small raised area (1/8 inch round or so) of hard epoxy which when I scraped away simply found what appeared to be a gold or copper area the same size as the raised epoxy area. I thought for sure the mod wasn't going to work and that I had ruined my board. I pencil lined it anyway. I kinda gave up after that thinking I had a chip that nvidia or DFI had made more difficult to mod. I cleaned up the chip and heatsink and put original Arctic Silver on the chip and put it all back together. I put back in my original ATI EAX600XT and booted her up. I uninstalled all my ATI software (planning to install my two GT cards anyway) and shut it down and installed my GT's. Sure enough, when it booted, the post showed SLI! Figure that out! Again, I'll make clear that I did not have two bumps to connect with the No2 pencil. I changed a couple settings in the BIOS, installed Nvidia drivers, the Asus Enhanced Driver and Forceware and sure enough I have SLI. Oh, by the way, I'm running SLI without the SLI bridge! Without the bridge you get an Nvidia popup message informing you that it will run faster if you use a bridge. I tried it out on Unreal Tournament 2004 with all video settings cranked up. Awesome graphics and fast! I don't know how to test frame rates or do any of that technical stuff. I'm worried that my pencil line will wear off. Anyone know if I should cover it in an epoxy or something? If so, what should I use? I hope this lengthy post is useful to others. Previous posts in this thread have been very helpful to me.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2005
- Location
- Houston, TX
you can just put tape over it. preferably electrical
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2002
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
I was bored so I performed the SLI trick and it works. Now I can see the SLI message during boot. I can't believe how easy it was. I used a number 2 pencil to make connection. I did scrape off the hard epoxy slowly until i saw the bright contacts. Didn't want to go too deep. Now I need another card to try it out.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2002
- Location
- bakersfield, CA
after this mod is done, can a sata1 cable work with a sata2 drive and the comp see it at it's full functionality? or will it still just work at sata1 speeds until you get a sata2 cable?
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2003
- Location
- Mesa, Arizona
ezeKieL987 said:
there is no such thing as a sata2 cable. its the same as sata
a sata hard drive is almost exactly the same as sata2. the real main difference is the software driving the hard drive. I have learned for experiance that sata2 makes little to no difference at all.
someone correct me if im wrong. I know sata has native commond queing or whatever, but i think some sata1 HDD have the same thing.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2002
- Location
- bakersfield, CA
right on thanks man...i know it was kind of a stupid question and i did research for it and couldnt find anything in a write-up so i figured where else but the forums!
on the Ultra D all you are doing is enabling the SLI, Sata II is already enabled, on the plain vanilla NF4 D, you have to do both mods, then you have an Ultra D SataII SLI board....
i think this was covered if you reread the first couple of postages...
later,
baldy
i think this was covered if you reread the first couple of postages...
later,
baldy
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2007
Hey guys, first post here... been reading for a long time, quick question, after I do this mod where can I find an SLI bridge that will fit correctly? I have a bunch laying around for ASUS boards but they're too long, and do I even need the bridge?
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