- Joined
- May 22, 2016
In addition to those two, there is also a Gigabyte 1080 with the hybrid cooler. LINK
You can't go wrong with any of those three cards, pick whichever one looks prettier to you!
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- Thread starter TBsteve
- Start date
In addition to those two, there is also a Gigabyte 1080 with the hybrid cooler. LINK
You can't go wrong with any of those three cards, pick whichever one looks prettier to you!
- Thread Starter
- #82
Awesome, thank you!
Big news here...Think I found the motherboard for $30 cheaper on Amazon. These are the exact same, no?
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Z270-GAM...=UTF8&qid=1505336237&sr=8-4&keywords=msi+z270
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V5BP3644&ignorebbr=1
Thanks Jeff! I'm going with the EVGA, as it will be my 3rd EVGA and I have always had no issues!
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2013
- Location
- Hills of Kentucky
To answer this question, yes you can. You will need to call MS and have them reactivate your Windows 10, since it's tied t hardware now. All, I had to do was tell them my mobo died and I replaced it. Wham bam, reactivated in less than 5 minutes.
- Thread Starter
- #85
They were different. Dimensions were off. I think the other one might have been the mini version of it. I went with the one on Newegg just to be safe! Everything is ordered. Here we go! Appreciate the help from everyone here, it was much appreciated!
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2008
I think those two motherboards are the same. The difference in reported dimensions is probably due to the fact that the one on Amazon appears to give the dimensions of the retail box whereas the one on Egg is giving the actual dimensions of the board itself. If you look at the one on Amazon its dimensions are stated to be 10.63x13.78x3.11. Now you know no motherboard is going to be over 3" high. And Egg only gives two dimensions. I think you paid an extra $30 bucks for that board you when you didn't need to.
- Thread Starter
- #89
Oh well...I decided not to buy an overpriced curved monitor, so I saved a ton of money...Might as well blow it on $30 extra to keep the entire cart in one shipment! 
My only concern now is for the liquid cooling. Do you know of any good tutorial videos? I want to be extremely careful and get it right. I don't want to fry my entire PC through a screw-up.
My only concern now is for the liquid cooling. Do you know of any good tutorial videos? I want to be extremely careful and get it right. I don't want to fry my entire PC through a screw-up.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2008
There's nothing much to say that would help you with an AIO liquid cooling setup. Mostly like installing an air cooler.
Install CPU in the socket and the memory modules first before motherboard is installed in the case. Also place the AIO cooler water blockback plate on the under side of the board before installing the motherboard in the case. Then install the motherboard in the case. Make sure you don't have any stray standoffs making contact with the underside of the motherboard where there is not a mounting hole.
Then I would lay the case down on the right side panel and install the radiator and fans first in the top panel of the case. Be careful not to bugger up the radiator fins. If there is a protective cover on the water block leave that in place until the radiator and fans are bolted in. Install the radiator fans on the underside of the radiator with the spoke side facing the radiator such that the fans are pushing air up through the radiator and out the top of the case. Make sure you gauge the length of the hoses in deciding which end of the radiator should go to the front and which to the back. If the hoses are long enough and there is clearance enough over top the DVD burner in the top drive bay, place the radiator such that the end which has the hoses attached points toward the front of the case.
Next, clean the top of the CPU and the bottom of the water block with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry. Then apply a pea-sized blob of thermal paste in the center of the CPU top and . Don't try to spread it. Let the clamping pressure spread it. Lower the water block onto the CPU and hold it in place until you can tighten the retainer screws or nuts (depending on the design). Tighten them in an "X" pattern, going back and forth after giving each one a turn or two until they are all bottomed out.
Make sure your pump power wire connector is plugged into a motherboard header. Some boards have a header designated for water pumps but if not just use the one labeled "CPU fan." It's usually just to the right of the socket area close to the board edge. That's about it.
Oh, and plan the routing of your radiator fan wires. You may have to fish them through a hole along the underside of the top panel of the case before securing the radiator to the top panel and then run them behind the motherboard tray. Your case may have a connector hub for fans on the backside of the motherboard tray. And then hub will typically be powered from a PSU SATA connector and PWM (fan speed) controlled from one of the motherboard headers. However, some AIO water systems are designed so that the fan wires plug into the pump housing.
Install CPU in the socket and the memory modules first before motherboard is installed in the case. Also place the AIO cooler water blockback plate on the under side of the board before installing the motherboard in the case. Then install the motherboard in the case. Make sure you don't have any stray standoffs making contact with the underside of the motherboard where there is not a mounting hole.
Then I would lay the case down on the right side panel and install the radiator and fans first in the top panel of the case. Be careful not to bugger up the radiator fins. If there is a protective cover on the water block leave that in place until the radiator and fans are bolted in. Install the radiator fans on the underside of the radiator with the spoke side facing the radiator such that the fans are pushing air up through the radiator and out the top of the case. Make sure you gauge the length of the hoses in deciding which end of the radiator should go to the front and which to the back. If the hoses are long enough and there is clearance enough over top the DVD burner in the top drive bay, place the radiator such that the end which has the hoses attached points toward the front of the case.
Next, clean the top of the CPU and the bottom of the water block with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry. Then apply a pea-sized blob of thermal paste in the center of the CPU top and . Don't try to spread it. Let the clamping pressure spread it. Lower the water block onto the CPU and hold it in place until you can tighten the retainer screws or nuts (depending on the design). Tighten them in an "X" pattern, going back and forth after giving each one a turn or two until they are all bottomed out.
Make sure your pump power wire connector is plugged into a motherboard header. Some boards have a header designated for water pumps but if not just use the one labeled "CPU fan." It's usually just to the right of the socket area close to the board edge. That's about it.
Oh, and plan the routing of your radiator fan wires. You may have to fish them through a hole along the underside of the top panel of the case before securing the radiator to the top panel and then run them behind the motherboard tray. Your case may have a connector hub for fans on the backside of the motherboard tray. And then hub will typically be powered from a PSU SATA connector and PWM (fan speed) controlled from one of the motherboard headers. However, some AIO water systems are designed so that the fan wires plug into the pump housing.
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- Joined
- Dec 27, 2008
You shouldn't need to leak test an AIO water cooler. They are sealed from the factory. But if you're nervous enough about it to want to take that precaution anyway, pack some rags around the water block and the radiator fittings after you get the radiator, fans and water block in place. Make sure the case is standing upright as it would be in use. Power it on and watch for leaks. If you spot anything, power it off immediately with the switch on the back of the PSU. Then return the unit to the vendor via RMA. This is probably the best you can do as far as leak testing as your pump will be powered off a motherboard header so power has to be supplied to the board. With custom loops that have beefy pumps powered directly off the PSU we would remove all power from the motherboard first.
Relax, dude!
Relax, dude!
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- Thread Starter
- #93
I'm relaxed!!! Just want to take precautions haha. I'm excited to do a new build. I did read that having a anti-corrosive/anti-algae solution would be good. I saw silver coils and this solution:
https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-L...qid=1505579612&sr=1-1&keywords=anti+corrosive
would it behoove me to get this or would silver coils be enough?
Also, was told regular Public gallon of distilled water would be sufficient?
Or.....this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXW07TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-L...qid=1505579612&sr=1-1&keywords=anti+corrosive
would it behoove me to get this or would silver coils be enough?
Also, was told regular Public gallon of distilled water would be sufficient?
Or.....this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXW07TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7&psc=1
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- Joined
- Dec 27, 2008
I thought we explained this already but it will come as a sealed unit. The hoses are already connected that run between the radiator and the waterblock/pump. The system is already filled with coolant. You don't need to add any thing. Just attach the fans to the underside of the cooler (and this may already be done), fasten the radiator to the case panel and the water block/pump to the socket. Connect the fan wires and the pump wire to a power source on the motherboard. That's pretty much it.
