Loop keeps getting dirty

[csimon]

Anyone running his loop only on distilled water?

I use only distilled water and a kill coil/silver bullet (only one is needed).
My build here

 

[m0r7if3r]

Just so you're aware, I followed the development of Mayhem's dye and Mayhem himself acknowledged, during that process (I'm not sure what happened once he was marketing it) he himself acknowledged that it would settle out of loops just like any other dye. His goal in creating the dye was to get rich color unequaled by any other dye, and he achieved that at the time. His goal was not to prevent the dye from settling, it performs about average on that front. I can try to dig up links if you really care to read about it, but it's been a while.

 

[Thekamikazepr]

Iheard food colorant is not as bad has anyone tried dies? does it behave the same?

 

[Waza]

Iheard food colorant is not as bad has anyone tried dies? does it behave the same?

Food coloring is good for feeding all kinds of plant life in your loop.

 

[Thekamikazepr]

Food coloring is good for feeding all kinds of plant life in your loop.

Lmao. Good thing i didnt try it then

 

[Snorlaxxx]

Just so you're aware, I followed the development of Mayhem's dye and Mayhem himself acknowledged, during that process (I'm not sure what happened once he was marketing it) he himself acknowledged that it would settle out of loops just like any other dye. His goal in creating the dye was to get rich color unequaled by any other dye, and he achieved that at the time. His goal was not to prevent the dye from settling, it performs about average on that front. I can try to dig up links if you really care to read about it, but it's been a while.

I don't know... I must have missed that post.
Still... When I was researching Mayhem's dye almost everyone was happy with it and told how it is the only dye you can use without any problems like the feser or other ones.
Mayhem himself wrote in another forum that his dyes don't gunk, stain or flake.

Now I don't know what to make of that, if my problem really was the dye.
Certainly looks that way, giving that everything was clean and there were no "fishy" smells.


Regarding biocides I read that the use of silver is not recommended with nickel plated blocks (corrosion). And using PT Nuke or Mayhems biocide just ionizes the water even more and is not that great of an idea as well.
Running distilled water alone and changing it every 2-3 months should be save enough to prevent growth without using additives.

 

[Jimbob7]

Break the loop, clean everything out, flush the rad excessively. Run purely Distilled water and see what your results are.

 

[sobe]

I don't know... I must have missed that post.
Still... When I was researching Mayhem's dye almost everyone was happy with it and told how it is the only dye you can use without any problems like the feser or other ones.
Mayhem himself wrote in another forum that his dyes don't gunk, stain or flake.

Now I don't know what to make of that, if my problem really was the dye.
Certainly looks that way, giving that everything was clean and there were no "fishy" smells.


Regarding biocides I read that the use of silver is not recommended with nickel plated blocks (corrosion). And using PT Nuke or Mayhems biocide just ionizes the water even more and is not that great of an idea as well.
Running distilled water alone and changing it every 2-3 months should be save enough to prevent growth without using additives.

The dye may not stain or gunk if it is being properly maintained, and by that I mean you need to flush the setup every month to 2 months (3months would be pushing it). The dye is great to showcase a system setup, but unless your pc gets special attention from magazines, CES, vendors, etc. You will be running into more hassle than good by running dye and cleaning it out each month.


As far as nickel plated blocks and not using silver or copper sulfate, I will re-iterate what Conundrum has said to previous members asking that question. Hogwash, assuming the block is of quality nickel plating it will not flake. Corrosion itself is a bit awry as low quality vs high quality nickel plating comes in, but assuming high quality it should not be of immediate concern unless you plan to run that same setup for several years IMO.

 

[m0r7if3r]

Copper will corrode with nickel, given enough time. Galvanic corrosion occurs in your loop whenever there are two different metals that are both in the water. What matters is rate of corrosion, and as long as you stick to brass/copper/silver/nickel, you're fine on the scale of years at least, more than likely decades.

 

[Snorlaxxx]

Finished bleeding my loop and have it up and running right now. Temps are great, so no bad mounted blocks or bad TIM application.
Everything looks nice and clean. I will report back in a few months.

Thanks for your opinions and your help

 

[GTXJackBauer]

You didn't take any pics for us! It wasn't to embarrass you in any way but to teach others from your experience. Just re-flushing the loop won't solve all your problems. You should have taken your blocks apart and investigate let alone clean them. You're just repeating what you did before which got you to this point. Maybe someone will come along and read this thread and learn from your experience and take our advise. You still have some ways of learning to go. Good luck!

 

[Snorlaxxx]

I didn't take pictures, because as I said, there was no reason to. Everything looked clean as soon as I drained the fluid. I would have taken some, if there was green/brown build up or anything suspicious, but luckily there wasn't.
Maybe I should have taken some, just to prove it to you

This really seemed to be a dye issue. (Mayhem Deep Red)
It has lost its saturation and started to "dry up".

The lesson I learned is not to use dyes, no matter how good they claim them to be.

 

[bamato]

Perhaps you already discussed this, but did you disassemble the blocks too? Those have tiny little channels in them that can easily get clogged.

 

[WhitePaw]

the dirt are already in there as soon as you press the start button, the color just make it colorful, and for the eye to become visible, and build up in the sinks

if you dont flush the tubing before installing it, you got a dust bonus right away. just an example

tubing, jetplate, blocks, rads, fittings+ more

Ther all are dirty out of the box..

Coolant isnt to blame, and you eye cant catch the small particles in the loop

and the diluted water is conducting electricity just fine, after a few minutes in a loop like that..

often people find crap in the cpu block, and its colored in the same color as the coolant.. Lets blame someone? feser, mayhem?. If you the is clean that crap wont build up in the first place..

Just some input..

 

[m0r7if3r]

the dirt are already in there as soon as you press the start button, the color just make it colorful, and for the eye to become visible, and build up in the sinks

if you dont flush the tubing before installing it, you got a dust bonus right away. just an example

tubing, jetplate, blocks, rads, fittings+ more

Ther all are dirty out of the box..

Coolant isnt to blame, and you eye cant catch the small particles in the loop

and the diluted water is conducting electricity just fine, after a few minutes in a loop like that..

often people find crap in the cpu block, and its colored in the same color as the coolant.. Lets blame someone? feser, mayhem?. If you the is clean that crap wont build up in the first place..

Just some input..

Are you trying to make the case that it wasn't the dye? I had a really hard time following that post.

 

[WhitePaw]

i am saying that often there can be other reasons to the gunk phenomena, than the first impression ( blame the color pigment ).

This case i dont know about, how could i?

People add all kind of stuff in the loop today.

The gunk is there, the minute you start the loop for the first time, color gets added to the gunk = gunk with color. the colored gunk end up in the block (where it build up), and since the gunk now is blue, its must be the Feser to blame?

 

[m0r7if3r]

i am saying that often there can be other reasons to the gunk phenomena, than the first impression.

This case i dont know about, how could i?

Well you could know what the rest of us know, which is two pages of info that was pretty substantive. Also, OP determined that it was the dye (unless you're point is that OP is wrong, in which case I neither agree nor disagree, but I am interested in your reasoning).

There are plenty of things that can cause buildup in loops, I will acknowledge that, however, I do not see the relevance (to this thread) of any of them besides the dye, so please enlighten me.

 

[WhitePaw]

I think my post 36 was informative and very clear,

Gunk or no gunk.. Not every reply in threads address the OP or TS directly..

 

[WhitePaw]

TS..

I would remove the pump and clean it, lift up the "drum" and clean everything, wipe walls/drum with isopropanol for an example, because that pump is going to get harder and harder to startup, and one day it wont (its just a matter of time).. Just keep twitching back and forth without catching motion.... pump isnt broke, but need to be cleaned to work properly again..

Never dry run a D5 for more than a couple of sec, when its out of the water, they get hot, very hot.. infarct so hot they heat up the water in the loop on a high rpm setting, when installed

Strip down the loop, you need to clean it all, with great care (inside blocks/tops).. and start all over again with new tubing. i dont know how bad its inside the rads, if it is asian rads with chambers, it can be pretty bad i imagine

But before you do that, you need to know what was the cause in the first place.. so you wont end up there again

Clean WC HW, distilled water, and a good uncolored glycol.. causes very little issues, and nothing else is really needed..

And remember, when you buy WC gear, and pick them out of the box, they are dirty, tubing is dirty inside, rads, blocks, jetplates, balancers.. = going to end up in the blocks later, its not maybe, it does....

The computer WC industry is the grand hype of them all........

Wish you the best of luck

isopropanol (spraycan) water, clean pieces of fabric, and compressed air(spraycan) are good tools.. and a q tip or 5

 

[wingman99]

I shop at the micro center at Marietta, GA. do you?