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Passive water cooling

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Hey Goog.
Since water boils at 100C and needs to be higher still to produce workable steam (which is a very bad temps for your processor to reach) it would only work for about 6 seconds and die before windoze loads. That's not cooling, that's killing.

Sorry m8, had to point that out before you force yourself into creating a new "what parts do I buy" thread. ;)
 
ZachM - come on man, less nay-saying and more ideas. If it wont completely work this way, then what can be done to make it work?
Well, if the water wants to flow down the ramps, then I will just make the holes bigger.

I still think that such a large surface would conduct enough heat to sufficently cool the system. I could also use say... 1/8" plexiglass for the sides, it would be very thin, so it should pass the heat through more easily, following the laws of thermanianodyamianianics (yes, I spelt that very wrong on purpose).

What if I used sheet aluminum for the side that would be behind the water?

Any more ideas?

OHOHOH! I was thinking of coloring the water, maybe a airplane toilet water blue or something :D
 
You need some type of outside air contact. If I was going to try to build that I would

1.use a low cfm fan at the top, making sure there was enough clearance between the top ramp and the top of the enclosure so that you dont get a blow-back effect.
2. create a vent in the enclosure on the side above the last ramp/level. maybe cover it with a fan filter,screen,or scotch pad to stop and water from splashing out.
3. if possible, use aluminum or copper sheeting for the ramps instead. It should help cool the water better concidering the air flow on it. And you can still put pin hole in them for your 'drip effect'.

I actually have all of the stuff I need to do this so I might have to try it to see what happens if I can even find the time. ;)
 
ƒÓÒl said:
Hey Goog.
Since water boils at 100C and needs to be higher still to produce workable steam (which is a very bad temps for your processor to reach) it would only work for about 6 seconds and die before windoze loads. That's not cooling, that's killing.

Sorry m8, had to point that out before you force yourself into creating a new "what parts do I buy" thread. ;)


Thats true at atmospheric pressures only. Lower the pressure & the boiling point drops. Thats the principle behind the thermosyphon. Of course the complexity of this means that its only practical in things as small as the thermosyphon. A power plant sized cooler or even an oil cooler sized thermosyphon evap chamber or condenser would be horribly impractical.

On a side note, my bro's A64 ran at 96°C for 30 seconds without killing the CPU. I don't know what he was thinking not having thermal shutdown protection enabled in his BIOS. He's a lucky kid.
 
I really think if you're going for an external cooling mechanism you should just build your self a Bong Cooler; improve upon the idea in some way you see fit. Not trying to be mean here but you're basically trying to use a water heater (something insulated) as a radiator.
 
I friend of mine, his HSF was nearly completely clogged with dust, and was running at 90c for weeks, no ill effect. It was a Sempron 2500 I think.

Pyros: I could think up a zillion ways to cool water using fans and metal, the point is to have it clear, and pretty much a display piece. If I was going for efficentcy, I would use a car rad or something...
 
Oroka Sempai said:
I friend of mine, his HSF was nearly completely clogged with dust, and was running at 90c for weeks, no ill effect. It was a Sempron 2500 I think.

Pyros: I could think up a zillion ways to cool water using fans and metal, the point is to have it clear, and pretty much a display piece. If I was going for efficentcy, I would use a car rad or something...

A display piece? So you dont care if it helps your temp? Sure it will work then. Until the heat load builds up and then what? Its plain and simple. This design as you suggest it does not have the ability to disapate a heat load for a significant amount of time. Dont you want it to atleast cool as well as the stock cooler?

You know why those desktop fountains work even though they have such a low flow? Its the exposure to air. Fresh air. Close one up in a box and it would not preform nearly as well.

I was only suggesting you use metal for the ramps. Listen to what everyone else is saying to you. With such a small enclosure not using air will not give you a noticable cooling effect. you might as well skip the ramps and just pump it in the top and out the bottom. The ramps just wont help without some type of air circulation or a massive ammount of water to absorb the heat load.(In which case you wont need the ramps.) And though you may think it, plastic does not transfer heat all that well.

Im not busting your ***** or anything. Im not discouraging you either. But you dont seem to realize what people are saying. i like the idea and think it is something I would even like to try.

The only other thing I know of would to direct cool the enclosure itself some how. Maybe with a low watt pelt?? :shrug: just enough to keep the heat load in the water down to a managable temp. But then you have to cool the pelt so I dont know. Maybe something like a aquarium cooler. I know this still stray away from your plan but its all I can think of. Sorry. :shrug: :cool:

I think you just need to build it. Maybe the temps will be what your willing to accept. Remember most people here are extremist and every little degree means the world to them. Once i started doing aftermarket type cooling I became anal about the temp of everything I owned. lol
 
I'm using a small car rad passively and I absolutely enjoy it. It is only about 1" thick by 12" high by 18" long and is bolted to the side of my case so it moves with the case.

I think going this route would be a lot easier and would give you the quiet you want.
 
I still really want to have it look cool. That is the main thing that is getting in the way right now. I want to do watercooling, but not a car rad or something, I want it to look cool.

If I opened a hole, and allowed the humidity out, it would really make that big of a diffrence? I would rather avoid that... I dont need all the windows in my place fogged up all the time.

What if I put hollow metal tubes, maybe copper, going through the tank, with the water flowing over them. The insides of the tubes would be open to the air, and would help disapate the heat?
 
I think its good idea. I would recomed placing some big big Blowers and run them in 5 volt. This would provide airflow to cool the air, but should be very quiet :santa2:
 
Several years ago, someone posted about making side panels for his case similar to your plex cooler. He used copper, though. With plexiglas, you wouldn't get much cooling at all. I've also seen fanless setups using copper pipe, but the more power a CPU uses, the more pipe you're going to need, and I haven't seen anything like that recently.

In order to run a modern, overclocked CPU -- even a Venice -- without fans, you're going to need a lot of surface area. Automotive and baseboard radiators can give you that in a relatively small space. Anything else is going to be seriously huge. Is that a problem? If you don't need portability, an artful arrangement of copper tubing mounted on the wall could give you great cooling without noise. How about two clear tanks with backlights connected by a forest of narrow copper tubing? Perhaps you could cast clear acrylic around 1/8" tubing to make manifolds for many parallel runs.
 
Well, I dont want a huge copper pipe ornament on my wall... what about a piller of weaving copper pipe? I would really like something see throught, but I would be willing to intergrate some copper into it... might look cool.
 
Oroka Sempai said:
Well, I dont want a huge copper pipe ornament on my wall... what about a piller of weaving copper pipe? I would really like something see throught, but I would be willing to intergrate some copper into it... might look cool.

I'm currently building a completely passive system. If you want me to send you a pic of the nearly finished product, I can. I haven't posted it yet because I have no idea if it works. It contains three passive radiators. Two innovatek convection radiators used a side panels and one custom built for the top. Plus about 30 lb of aluminum heatsink extrusion. I really did a lot of research concerning passive cooling and this was the best solution that I could come up with. The zalman and thermaltake perform very poorly, so I quicky excluded those. This setup should be able to dissapate about 220 watts of heat. If you are interested in building one I can send you the design.
 
I really like the little waterfall idea but just like a bong it would be difficult to filter the air. Water is like a magnet to dust and so on the water would almost instantly become polluted and in no time you would get particulate matter in your system that can play havoc with pumps and micro channels in water blocks unless your working in a clean room like situation the maint. on this would be prohibitive in my opinion. I would go with massive area and good ole conduction and convection.
 
I am starting to get a feeling that I will need to use massive ammounts of water if I do a closed passive WC set-up...how about more water?

cooling2.jpg
 
Oroka Sempai said:
Well, I dont want a huge copper pipe ornament on my wall... what about a piller of weaving copper pipe? I would really like something see throught, but I would be willing to intergrate some copper into it... might look cool.
The copper tubing could take nearly any form. Just avoid anything that would trap air.
 
Oroka Sempai said:
I am starting to get a feeling that I will need to use massive ammounts of water if I do a closed passive WC set-up...how about more water?

More water will give you a sort of flywheel effect, allowing you to dissipate the heat from brief periods of high cpu activity over a longer time. However, it won't increase your cooling capacity. What you need is more surface area.
 
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