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Yes, the device you show in post #94 is the breaker panel. It may well be that the whole house is tied to that breaker panel and if so then a power line network adapter should work.

I would check it this way: Go to the outlets that the two units of the pair would be plugged into. Plug something - anything- into each outlet. Go to the breaker panel and try and identify the breaker or breakers that serve those two outlets. They might be labeled but if not you would need to employ trial and error to identify the correct one or ones. Power down any plugged in computers. Throw the breakers and see if your plugged in devices quit. If you can cut power to said outlets with breakers that are in the same breaker panel then those outlets are being served by the same breaker panel.

Hopefully, the circuit is not too long to use a power line network adapter. I think most of them say that 300' of wiring is the limit of their reach. If this is an apartment and the two outlets in question are on the same breaker panel then the circuit ought to be fairly short.

By the way the base station of the network adapter pair will need to be plugged into an outlet near the router as the base station will connect to the router via ethernet cable. The power line network adapters should be plugged directly into an outlet rather than into a power strip.
 
Thank you for advise about how to check the outlets.

This is a townhouse. A pretty narrow and high three storey building. modem is on the 3rd floor.
 
Id get at least 8 gigz of memory for gaming and an SSD as well, skimp on PSU wattage you dont need over 600 for that. Try 550 look for antec earthwatts, they are cheap and good or something common from Thermaltake.

All the big brands like Seasonic or FSP would be my first recommendation but not on a 500 buck budget.
 
I also need a keyboard. Advise is apreciated. I am looking for a keyboard under $50, better $30. Wired keyboard is fine. And it should be more or less reliable product.
Keyboards by someone on tom's hardware(down in comments):
Budget Tier
- Logitech K120
- Corsair Raptor K30
- Rosewill RK-8100
- CM Storm Devastator
- Gigabyte Force K3

Mid Tier
- Corsair Raptor K40
- Razer Deathstalker
- Microsoft Sidewinder X4
- Logitech G105
- Steel Series Apex

High End
- Logitech G19s
- Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Edition
- Corsair K70
- Ducky Channel Shine III
- Rosewill RGB80

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/tt-esports-poseidon-zx-thermaltake-tenkeyless,3909.html

If there are better options I'd like to hear. Thanks.
 
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Id get at least 8 gigz of memory for gaming and an SSD as well, skimp on PSU wattage you dont need over 600 for that. Try 550 look for antec earthwatts, they are cheap and good or something common from Thermaltake.

All the big brands like Seasonic or FSP would be my first recommendation but not on a 500 buck budget.

I bought already all the hardware. I just need to solve the issue with Internet, and buy peripherals.
 
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I also need a keyboard. Advise is apreciated.
Keyboards by someone on tom's hardware(down in comments):
Budget Tier
- Logitech K120
- Corsair Raptor K30
- Rosewill RK-8100
- CM Storm Devastator
- Gigabyte Force K3

Mid Tier
- Corsair Raptor K40
- Razer Deathstalker
- Microsoft Sidewinder X4
- Logitech G105
- Steel Series Apex

High End
- Logitech G19s
- Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Edition
- Corsair K70
- Ducky Channel Shine III
- Rosewill RGB80

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/tt-esports-poseidon-zx-thermaltake-tenkeyless,3909.html

If there are better options I'd like to hear. Thanks.

Logitech G510s, its like inbetween the legendary G15 and the G19 you list. I got mine for only 60 bucks. has LCD screen,not as good as G19 more like the G15 but can change colors. Excelent keyboard.
 
1)What are the ways to ground myself when building the computer?

2)If I have a tile floor do I need to ground myself?

3)If no, should I stay barefeat on the tile?

Do I need to know something else important about composing of a computer that I might not know?
 
There's a lot of unnecessary hype about grounding yourself and antistatic devices. Static electricity is usually not a problem except in cold, dry weather and on carpet. I have built an untold number of systems over the years without using an antistatic device and never had a problem. My only advice on that would be to touch something else before you touch the components for the build after walking across the floor. If there is any static build up that should dissipate it.
 
Static bleh. Just touch something metalic before touching the computer you should be fine. Only thing I ever broke cause of static was not from me, it was cause back in da day with pencil trick on durons and tbirds I had the chip on top of a pack of cigarretes and the celophane of the pack had static and broke the chip
 
For a cheap, good keyboard -> steel series apex raw. It's not as fancy as the normal apex, but its function is fantastic, and it looks and feels great. Not as good a s a mech keyboard, but you're not finding one of those for under 50....
 
Why do you need to partition the drive at all? You can do that while installing Windows.

I am asking for how to split the space on HDD. Maybe I used a wrong word.
How many virtual discs should I have, or whatever they are called(D,C,F,E discs).
 
I am asking for how to split the space on HDD. Maybe I used a wrong word.
How many virtual discs should I have, or whatever they are called(D,C,F,E discs).

The word is "partitions". Unless you are wanting a dual boot system (e.g. Windows/Linux) there is really no reason to concern yourself with partitions. Just let Windows create the partitions it needs during the install.
 
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