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The Storm G5, 50 microns from perfection

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Kerosene is my favorite lapping lube. Try lapping in a V pattern to keep the pressue on the surfaces even. Make several passes in one direction, and several in the other. However if you want the glossier (glazed) finish, you will need to make the finish pass with dry paper.
Nice work so far, it just takes time time time eh? :banghead:
 
consumer9000 said:
Kerosene is my favorite lapping lube. Try lapping in a V pattern to keep the pressue on the surfaces even. Make several passes in one direction, and several in the other. However if you want the glossier (glazed) finish, you will need to make the finish pass with dry paper.
Nice work so far, it just takes time time time eh? :bang head

why YES it does. @ first, it was going FAST (faster than copper) but that was just the high edges. now that im down to 99% of the surface, it has slowed WAY WAY down.

dont have any Kerosene but i will try the dish soap/water for now...

got 3 sheets of 600 (they were out of 800 :bang head ) and 3x 1500... that should do it (if not, im doing something wrong ;) )
 
You can buy low-smell kerosene and it works just as well as regular kerosene, but is a lot easier on the nose and hands.

If you're lot lapping with kerosene or some equivalent lubricant then this is why you'll have trouble getting a mirror finish.

I also "dress" the paper first (i.e. what you call hot paper) by giving the top-side of the plate a few laps with it to remove any abnormal grit particles which may gouge more than desired, and then flip the plate over and lap the base.
 
excellent, excellent lapping tips!!!

i have not done any more on this as i went to see Star Wars EP III last night (for the 1st time) ... wow

so needless to say, i will "use the force" while i lap today :)
 
haha nice, look forward to seeing your results, I'm really tentative on lapping the G5 myself...specially after waiting for it for so long and I really don't want to risk damaging it.

hopefully i can learn from your experience
 
i will def consider the kerosine next time i lapp. didnt pick that up from the guides i read a few months back.

not to fall off topic, but i saw ep3 the other night myself, and ill give it a wow as well.
 
yang88she said:
haha nice, look forward to seeing your results, I'm really tentative on lapping the G5 myself...specially after waiting for it for so long and I really don't want to risk damaging it.

hopefully i can learn from your experience
i would STRONGLY suggest you learn on some "junk" HSF!!

you CAN NOT "learn how to lap" WITHOUT doing it!!

try nikhsub1's suggestion on using a marker on the base and see how it "comes off".

after a few tries, you should have a "feel for it" (or not) and then try to lap a not so junk HSF. see how that goes B4 you touch the G5.

i have (many) years of "hands-on" metal and wood working experience, and am still learning...

GOOD LUCK!!




EDIT: here, let me do a few quick tests...

i cringed B4 i did this:



and after 5 passes (MY 1 "pass" = back and forth, with presser) on DRY "well used" 600 grit





now lets see how a "junk (STOCK FX-55) HSF" does:



after 12 passes: obviously, this HSF is NOT concave (or FLAT) but more convex. (concave = "bow" in, convex= "bow" out. as the center relates to the sides) on DRY "well used" 600 grit



EDIT/NOTES: i was doing this FAST so the pattern *might* be a little better than it looks (uneven pressure "top to bottom" in the pic / "side to side" as i held it) because i wasnt concentrating (using the force) but, all in all; not too bad for a "stock" HSF!
IMO: convex is "better" than concave since the CPU is in the center of the IHS/HSF
 
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Joe Camel said:
EDIT/NOTES: i was doing this FAST so the pattern *might* be a little better than it looks (uneven pressure "top to bottom" in the pic / "side to side" as i held it) because i wasnt concentrating (using the force) but, all in all; not too bad for a "stock" HSF!

"the force": extreme concentration without effort.



after: 15-20 passed (in a slow "WWWWW" pattern across the face of the parer), turn block 180, wipe paper, 15-20 passes....





after another 2x more of the above:




this is all on some "dead paper"!!
why not use it up B4 i try 1500 wet with the silver? kinda, warm up the force :rolleyes:




i use my left hand to hold the untaped corner of the paper "tight" because i have never got FLAT paper with just tape :shrug:

EDIT: yup, glass/sand paper aint perfect....
 
this is all very interesting
only last month i didnt even know what little river was, or who cathar is...

great learning for all of us my friend

may the force be with you
 
powerful, are the ways of the WET lap....


2x sets with dish soap/water on the used, but not abused, 1500 grit, next to the dead paper in the pic above:



remark



2x more:



:eek: :)


practice what you preach: im learning how to wet lap on this block B4 i go to the G5.
 
looking good Joe! The sharpie technique really makes it easy to see where the block is whacked isnt it? From the earlier shots of the G5, it looks to be flat now, now to just shine it up. Or is it still in need of more flattening?
 
Well, flatter than it was. ;)

One unfortunate effect of hand lapping is the base is often no longer a uniform perpedicular surface to the rest of the heatsink. Even if flat, it will likely slope slightly to one side now. :(
 
consumer9000 said:
Well, flatter than it was. ;)

One unfortunate effect of hand lapping is the base is often no longer a uniform perpendicular surface to the rest of the heatsink. Even if flat, it will likely slope slightly to one side now. :(
true, but with only 2 points of connection (socket 939 mounting); a plane you can not make (anyway) and then use springs on them, and you have a very...flexable "support" structure.

as for the G5's base, im more than satisfied with its flatness. i still want to play around with this wet lapping of copper b4 i go to the silver. im not satisfied with my knowledge/skill yet.
 
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wet lapped the copper 4 more times (sets) and felt comfortable to try the sivler....

ehhh, not too bad...




yes, i did go dry for the last set (to get "mirror" effect)
 
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on my sp-94 i did wet lap at 2000 and still got a very nice mirror finish, didn't think you could get it on dry too
 
i find it easier on dry...
but i think its more a "cheat"...when the paper is "full" i can get a shiny finish.

no matter how light or slow, wet or dry i go, im still getting lots of "scratches" in my mirror :(

think i need to find some 2000 grit ;)
 
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