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Water cooling performance
- Thread starter Snowbiz
- Start date
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Wow. I'd be all over for no more than $100. You look at the $250-$350 cases with the amount of estate they have and look at this only to laugh. I understand its the convenience you're mainly paying for but what the hell. $300+ really?! Even $200+ I would cringe. I would demand breathalyzer tests to all those in that company. Somethings gotta give.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2014
- Location
- All over the place
Just been to the Microcool website to see how much it is in Euros and whether the weak Euro would make it cheaper after importing, but they're not selling it on their e-shop. Selling all the other versions though...
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
I have been talking with you guy's for a couple of weeks. ASUS is currently repairing my Sabertooth R2 but the 8350 also got fried. I'll replace it with a 8370 but how do you keep from drying out your TIM???? I have always run a fan pointed straight at the VRM or away from it. It always sits right next to my CPU block and usually within 2 months, the TIM between the CPU and the water block has dried up. I use AS 5 and recently (when I fried my MB & CPU) AS Ceramique 2. My case is a Cooler Master HAF X, I have used 80mm and low speed 120mm fans.
What do I need to change???
Different size fan?????
Different TIM??????
Thank You For Your Time
In Reading And Replying
What do I need to change???
Different size fan?????
Different TIM??????
Thank You For Your Time
In Reading And Replying
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Or have a look at MX-4. One of the best out there along with Gelid Extreme.
What was the cause of it frying? Overheating for a lengthy period? Bad PSU? Bad ground in the case? Too many variables to say.
What was the cause of it frying? Overheating for a lengthy period? Bad PSU? Bad ground in the case? Too many variables to say.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
I had just did a Benchmark run at 5087GHz @ 1.4857 but I knew it had more. The temp's where higher than I liked from last weeks run ( +10c) so I backed her down to 4.7 to play a game. I put the higher temp's down to trying to get the NB higher to stabilize the memory ( was using a 80mm . I got 4-5 minutes into COD AW when the VRM fried, I checked the CPU on another board. It would not even post but just do a loop on restarting. When I pulled the block off the CPU, the TIM was at the edge's of the CPU & Block and also dry. I had no TIM over the middle of the CPU. When I had ran air or water before, if I pulled the block off after a month on the CPU, I could (and have) pulled the CPU out of the socket just from the TIM being glued to the block. When I started water cooling my RAM on my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 (Corsair Vengeance 1600 @ 9-9-9-24 1.5), I was getting memory errors. With the MB's VRM & NB tied together with a heat pipe, I knew I needed to get rid of the heat. I had used the stock fan from the AMD cooler, and was able to hit 2128 @ 9-11-9-27 1.65. I had just switched to the ASUS motherboard and the FX-8350 last month and was trying to see what see had. To get to 5GHz with the Gigabyte and the FX-8320, (it is back in it running F@H) I would have to get the CPU over 1.7v. It would run 24/7 at 4.5GHz @ 1.45v.
Too many variables to say. Could be.... New motherboard that has WAY to many options to OC, after using the Gigabyte Rev 1.x board. Having a New FX-8350, that is from a more mature process than the 2 1/2 year old FX-8320 I had.
Look's like I will be go back through OCing 101 again
Too many variables to say. Could be.... New motherboard that has WAY to many options to OC, after using the Gigabyte Rev 1.x board. Having a New FX-8350, that is from a more mature process than the 2 1/2 year old FX-8320 I had.
Look's like I will be go back through OCing 101 again
A couple things strike me as curious. I don't doubt your claims, but am curious as to the possibilities.
"The temp's where higher than I liked from last weeks run ( +10c)..." - What would cause a +10c increase in a matter of 1 week? Surely your TIM didn't dry in a matter of 1 week. Do you have you rig sitting directly above a heat vent?
"When I pulled the block off the CPU, the TIM was at the edge's of the CPU & Block and also dry. I had no TIM over the middle of the CPU..." - Its possible you over tightened the block and squeezed the TIM from the center and pushed it all to the edges. Giving the appearance that it dried up.
"...I could (and have) pulled the CPU out of the socket just from the TIM being glued to the block." - This is actually fairly common, even with proper TIM. It's best to rotate the block/HSF until the suction releases the CPU from the block. You probably know this, but I thought it was worth mentioning here.
"New motherboard that has WAY to many options to OC..." - You'll never hear me say this phrase. LOL. I say "Moar options, Moar betta!"
"The temp's where higher than I liked from last weeks run ( +10c)..." - What would cause a +10c increase in a matter of 1 week? Surely your TIM didn't dry in a matter of 1 week. Do you have you rig sitting directly above a heat vent?
"When I pulled the block off the CPU, the TIM was at the edge's of the CPU & Block and also dry. I had no TIM over the middle of the CPU..." - Its possible you over tightened the block and squeezed the TIM from the center and pushed it all to the edges. Giving the appearance that it dried up.
"...I could (and have) pulled the CPU out of the socket just from the TIM being glued to the block." - This is actually fairly common, even with proper TIM. It's best to rotate the block/HSF until the suction releases the CPU from the block. You probably know this, but I thought it was worth mentioning here.
"New motherboard that has WAY to many options to OC..." - You'll never hear me say this phrase. LOL. I say "Moar options, Moar betta!"
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
This was my first time working on overclocking a motherboard that used OFFSET values in the BIOS. This is also my first UEFI BIOS and the first Asus motherboard since the M3A. The Gigabyte motherboards that I have used, use absolute values in the BIOS. If the CPU needed 1.375v to work and you added +50mv, it showed that the CPU was going to get 1.425v.
Very true. Different Manufacturers use differnet terminology and different ways of achieving a similar result. Voltage offsets is a great example of this along with LLC settings. Bottom line though, once you get used to your Motherboard you'll want every option available to tweak if you really want to dial 'er in just right like. If I'm not mistaken some members here (RGone) have set their offset to each individual CPU freq so when CnQ kicks in it has the highest OC while maintaining stability and utilizing the lowest voltage setting. Took him quite a while but his rig purrs because of it.
Anyhow, enough rambling. You should check you block and cpu to make sure they're not both convex. If you're not sure how we can assist in that.
Anyhow, enough rambling. You should check you block and cpu to make sure they're not both convex. If you're not sure how we can assist in that.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
+1
On the CPU.
I have never lapped a CPU before, nor have I had a reason to check one (1).
I have heard of and read some of their post's but I always thought that was for EXTREME cooling people. Going that extra step, to get maybe a 2-4c lower temp (AND possibly bending pins) didn't seem worth the effort. I will admit, that I have lapped many coolers before. I never thought that a CPU would be as bad as a $20 heat sink.
Do I need to get Paranoid and start checking new ones I get.
Nice. Usually they don't need it. There was just another post today about the same issue. If HS is convex and CPU isn't, usually not bad unless it's really bad. But when they're both convex or both concave you'll never get good contact.
If the CPU is new you could try an RMA. Same with cooler. I would try that over lapping as that will void your warranty.
If the CPU is new you could try an RMA. Same with cooler. I would try that over lapping as that will void your warranty.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
I talked to ASUS on Thursday, and was told that my motherboard had been accepted. I also talked to them again today, this time I copied & pasted the LIVE CHAT session to MS word. They are going to fix and recertify the motherboard, I had to ask the guy about the CPU. Since the motherboard failed, this caused the CPU to fry. Here is what he said, about who should repair/replace the CPU : "Well we are ASUS, not AMD, we did not manufacture the cpu, I am not sure why they would inform you to come to us for repair. I do apologize for that, but we cannot RMA any cpu. only asus products. I do apologize for that matter." After the chat with Asus, I submitted a RMA to AMD and also told them that it was the fault of the motherboard. Either way, I plan on picking up a FX-8370 as AMD also updated it's instruction set.
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Make sure to take pictures of your board and especially the CPU pins. I don't trust Asus one bit.
Concave and convex of the cpu or block? I understand how the cpu could get this way, as the covers are mostly stamped metal, that and heat could warp the cpu cover, is it also possible that over tightening could warp the cpu cover? I imagine under tightening would lead to poor contact of the TIM and thus could relate to overheating and warp the cover this way, but how does the lock get warped? I've never assembled a custom loop or handled the block only a h100i aio and it felt pretty meaty, granted its block pump and board in there. So I guess the question I have is what do you do if you find that you have a warped cpu cover, RMA? and what in the world would warp those massive cpu water blocks?
I am looking to assemble a custom loop in the near future, found I poorly assembled this new pc I have and will instead mix match parts to make two rigs, one for me and one for ... well me of course. with the addition of more parts, spending money is great, just wish it didn't add up so fast.
I am looking to assemble a custom loop in the near future, found I poorly assembled this new pc I have and will instead mix match parts to make two rigs, one for me and one for ... well me of course. with the addition of more parts, spending money is great, just wish it didn't add up so fast.
From what I've seen and read it's far more common for a CPU to be manufactured with a slight concave top. Not drastic enough to cause any performance issues as most cores are located in the center of the die. Heatsinks are most commonly the cause of extreme conve/concaving of CPU's from years of pressure and the sinks are not manufactured very precisely either. I was very surprised at how rough my NH-D14 base is. Most of the top heatsinks and water blocks now use springs and the screws are designed to be bottomed out to provide the proper tension all the time.
I think the worst case scenarios are when both are convex, pushing all the TIM out from between them or both Concave and not providing adequate contact.
I think the worst case scenarios are when both are convex, pushing all the TIM out from between them or both Concave and not providing adequate contact.
Ok, so newer blocks are machined better and with the springed attachment they shouldn't cause the convex/cave over time (granted even with springed attachment over torque can happen). So best case is to inspect closely the cpu and block to make sure its not visible to the naked eye then go from there?
Well, the Newer name brand ones anyhow. i.e. EK, Swiftech, Koolance etc. Again with my EK Supremacy EVO and my Noctua they are designed for you to screw them down until the screws stop. That's how you get the proper tension. There is no over/under tightening this way.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
+1
I did not have that feeling until tonight. I got a e-mail from Asus support, that turned out to be a BILL
01-RMA Number USPC511273 0.00 1 0.00
10-RC003 0.00 1 0.00
04-Shipping Ground Shipping Ground 10.00 1 10.001
Motherboard Damage Non-Repairable Replacement Unit - burnt - not repairable
150.00 1 150.00
Total $160.00
Amount Paid -0.00
Amount Due
$160.00 USD.
