Hiya Folks
OK...want to get going with the phase unit but want to be extra careful as this is my first time going cold. Think I've got it but before doing anything wanted to ask here.
Have read the stickies and guides that are out there and have received guidance from the seller of the phase unit. His preference is the artist eraser method (which I know some of you aren't enamored with).
Here are excerpts from the seller's 'instructions' along with my questions/comments:
"I'll write up more tomorrow for you, but I always use artist eraser, it's maleable rubber and it's easy to put on and to take off. The eraser is to waterproof the board, which neither frost king or shop towels will do. Some people use nail polish or vaseline but neither are easy to remove like eraser. I think the 2 cubes I sent you should be enough depending on what board you're using. With LN2 you always make a couple of "gaskets" out of shop towel to absorb any moisture when the pot starts thawing, but it's not really necessary with an SS. You can if you want but if you seal up the board good enough you're probably okay without, unless you live in the tropics with very high humidity."
I'm thinking of painting the front/back of the motherboard (around the socket and extending to just beyond the mounting holes) in clear nail polish. Some prefer Liquid Electrical Tape...would that be better than the nail polish?
"No reason to paint the back of the mobo with anything. Only thing you need to do is put a thin layer of eraser over the socket backplate and extend it a little beyond the holes that are used to mount the SS head. Only time you need to concern yourself with anything more than that is if you're running liquid nitrogen."
Others say to forget the nail polish altogether and just use the artist eraser on the front/back of the board. Thoughts on that?
"Sealing the socket is the most critical, and the most hazardous of all, especially with the new socket types used on the 2011, 1155, and 1156 pin sockets. You need to completely seal off the socket to prevent ANY water from reaching the mobo or the CPU. With the older socket types it was rather easy because the socket hold down covered most of the socket and all you had to do was fill the holes with rubber, put small rolls of eraser between the side of the CPU, and then use a very very thin layer of eraser on the hold down itself. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY METAL SURFACE OF THE SOCKET TO REMAIN EXPOSED TO AIR!. With the new type sockets there are larger spaces left between the side of the CPU and the hold down, these must be filled with eraser but you have to be very careful to NOT be too aggressive in pushing in the eraser because it's possible on these sockets to force the eraser to the very edge of the socket pins, so use caution when doing this. If eraser gets into the pins it's very difficult to get out without destroying the socket, and consequently the mobo."
So...open the hold-down and fill from the edges of the cpu to the edges of the hold-down then close the hold-down and cover it with a thin layer of eraser?
"The attached pic is the eraser field on my Rampage IV Extreme that was running SS. Note how everything is covered other than the chip itself. On the back, the backplate is also covered with eraser stretching a little beyond the mounting holes about an inch in either direction. The backplate is metal, and being connected to the socket will get cold, so you want to make sure no condensate forms down there either."
Ok...have the metal backplate and a rubber one...guessing put the metal one on top of the rubber one?
So...do all that then just mount the head to the mobo? Am I missing anything? Definitely could use some guidance with the mounting of the head onto the board. Attached is a pic of the head.
tia for your help/suggestions/etc!
OK...want to get going with the phase unit but want to be extra careful as this is my first time going cold. Think I've got it but before doing anything wanted to ask here.
Have read the stickies and guides that are out there and have received guidance from the seller of the phase unit. His preference is the artist eraser method (which I know some of you aren't enamored with).
Here are excerpts from the seller's 'instructions' along with my questions/comments:
"I'll write up more tomorrow for you, but I always use artist eraser, it's maleable rubber and it's easy to put on and to take off. The eraser is to waterproof the board, which neither frost king or shop towels will do. Some people use nail polish or vaseline but neither are easy to remove like eraser. I think the 2 cubes I sent you should be enough depending on what board you're using. With LN2 you always make a couple of "gaskets" out of shop towel to absorb any moisture when the pot starts thawing, but it's not really necessary with an SS. You can if you want but if you seal up the board good enough you're probably okay without, unless you live in the tropics with very high humidity."
I'm thinking of painting the front/back of the motherboard (around the socket and extending to just beyond the mounting holes) in clear nail polish. Some prefer Liquid Electrical Tape...would that be better than the nail polish?
"No reason to paint the back of the mobo with anything. Only thing you need to do is put a thin layer of eraser over the socket backplate and extend it a little beyond the holes that are used to mount the SS head. Only time you need to concern yourself with anything more than that is if you're running liquid nitrogen."
Others say to forget the nail polish altogether and just use the artist eraser on the front/back of the board. Thoughts on that?
"Sealing the socket is the most critical, and the most hazardous of all, especially with the new socket types used on the 2011, 1155, and 1156 pin sockets. You need to completely seal off the socket to prevent ANY water from reaching the mobo or the CPU. With the older socket types it was rather easy because the socket hold down covered most of the socket and all you had to do was fill the holes with rubber, put small rolls of eraser between the side of the CPU, and then use a very very thin layer of eraser on the hold down itself. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY METAL SURFACE OF THE SOCKET TO REMAIN EXPOSED TO AIR!. With the new type sockets there are larger spaces left between the side of the CPU and the hold down, these must be filled with eraser but you have to be very careful to NOT be too aggressive in pushing in the eraser because it's possible on these sockets to force the eraser to the very edge of the socket pins, so use caution when doing this. If eraser gets into the pins it's very difficult to get out without destroying the socket, and consequently the mobo."
So...open the hold-down and fill from the edges of the cpu to the edges of the hold-down then close the hold-down and cover it with a thin layer of eraser?
"The attached pic is the eraser field on my Rampage IV Extreme that was running SS. Note how everything is covered other than the chip itself. On the back, the backplate is also covered with eraser stretching a little beyond the mounting holes about an inch in either direction. The backplate is metal, and being connected to the socket will get cold, so you want to make sure no condensate forms down there either."
Ok...have the metal backplate and a rubber one...guessing put the metal one on top of the rubber one?
So...do all that then just mount the head to the mobo? Am I missing anything? Definitely could use some guidance with the mounting of the head onto the board. Attached is a pic of the head.
tia for your help/suggestions/etc!
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