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Antec, Cheiftec, and Other For Water-Cooling

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This drawing is how I HOPE the system will flow. The core will be turned sideways and mounted at the top. By having the core at the top I decided to add another barb to replace the T fitting so I can bleed the air out. Click on drawing.

T%20Fitting%201.jpg
 
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Been playing around and will try this in the 3 barb top using the D-Tek TC-4 water block. No clue if it will help lower temps, but it does work for Cathars blocks.


Fittings%20Photo.jpg
 
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wow! thats pretty cool! it would work with is except he has different size slit, actually... it would work with a larger NPT thread, you should show him this!
 
also, whats the temp differences? that mite be too small of a slit...
 
I can always remove more metal. I may even try placing cross slots like cathar has on the center plate. Something to mess with.
 
Another option would be something like this:
DV.jpg

It would be much easier modding the duct than the case.

peace.
unloaded
 
DodgeViper said:
I can always remove more metal. I may even try placing cross slots like cathar has on the center plate. Something to mess with.

?? look again, Cathar has one slot on the center plate.
 
Quote DV, "I may even try placing cross slots like cathar has on the center plate." end quote

That is not what I get from that statement MG. To me it means that he thinks there is more than one slot on Cathar's centerplate, and thereby misunderstands the design.

edit, just seen your reply DV. What exactly are you trying to do with it? Cathar's slot is part of a complete design, the slot alone means nothing really.
 
Going to try it out to see if jetting the water onto the base plate helps improving the CPU temps.

I had seen a photo of his center plate that had one slot with many square openings in it.
 
the square openings are an illusion, you are seeing the channels of the baseplate below the slotted centerplate.

peace.
unloaded
 
How funny someone just sent me a link to OCA and here is a quote from cathar,

Originally posted by Cathar at Australia Forums
Looks interesting.

If only the orientation and depth of the barb could be guaranteed when screwing tapered barbs in....

With straight thread barbs it'd be a decent idea. I wonder how fiddly it was for him to get that made up?
 
for this block, or for most designs just a squair or round jet would probably work the best, but ya never know, try making a 1/4inch hole or a little smaller and using that for a jet if you want to experiment
 
DodgeViper said:
How funny someone just sent me a link to OCA and here is a quote from cathar,


Uh, hadn't realised it was you DV.

Your nozzle idea looked interesting to me as a way to do nozzles on the ends of barbs. The slit nozzle that I use really is there because of the micro-channels and the width of them. It's not really an optimal solution for a single wide open channel like on the TC-4. If you want to go ahead down that path, I'd be looking at implementing perhaps 7 circular nozzles hanging off the bottom of the barb, one in the middle and the other 6 around it. Each nozzle would be around a 2mm wide hole. Each nozzle would be 2mm apart from edge to edge, leaving you with enough room to fit all your nozzles onto the bottom of the barb. This would give you the neccesary pattern and jet shape to effectively cool the area you want to be cooling, and be a fairly good trade-off of restrictiveness vs water velocity.

Think of something like Volenti's P4 direct-die cooling nozzle arrangement. You want something like that, and what he has is actually a pretty good desgn.
 
Today I did something on the order you mention, just not with seven holes. I am also planning on placing small dimples in the channel over the die exposing more area of the metal. I got to thinking about a gun barrel. Many custom gunsmiths have begun cutting flutes down the length of the barrel on the outside. Some said this was to take weight out of the barrel, this is B/S, and the real reason is to expose more metal to the ambient air so the barrel cools quickly.

What you have suggested is what the end of a gas cutting torch looks like.
 
Spent a few minutes in the shop today and built this nozzle sprayer. I did as Cathar mentioned. I now have two different nozzles to try, but I will agree with Cathar the 7- 2mm hole barb will work better. It will be awhile before I have everything together as I want to redo the entire system. My 3-barb top I should have in a week.

7%20Nozzle.jpg
 
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