Arctil Silver melts @

[killem1x1]

I installed a 156w pelt this weekend.
Everything ran great until last night. My temps started to climb, and climb.
So I broke the rig back down.
I noticed the pelt didn't seem to be working consistently, I started checking my wiring, and re-wired the pelt straight to the PS. Turned it on, went to check it, and yes burnt the crap outta my thumb, while
I was washing my hand , I noticed the pelt began to smoke, and before I could get to it, the thing started popping, snarling, etc...
The only "residue" on the thing is Arctic Silver, anyone know what temp AS2 melts @, and if what I witnessed is normal?
(The wires going to the pelt melted, and slid off, and there are some "black" marks where the AS2 charred at)

 

[It_The_Cow]

Was the TEC still on when you went to wash your hands? And did you have something to cool it? You probably overheated it

 

[Colin]

LOL! Yeah I would say it overheated. The solder the holds the wires on melting is the first clue........ Time for a new pelt.

 

[killem1x1]

Yepper, it was still on, (I have the burn mark on my thumb to prove it)

I just read in the tips/peltier section, about how important it is to keep your pelt cool while on, but I was not informed about this when I purchased it, as "a-matter-of-fact", I was told to run the pelt for a while outside the system, Obviously a while means a few seconds, not a minute or two.
hmmm...
No thoughts on the Arctic Silver melting huh?

 

[Colin]

How would you like your Arctic Silver Sir, fried or broiled?

 

[Nevin]

To scorch AS2 you had to be over 200C.

Nevin

 

[killem1x1]

over 200degrees! WOW, I am lucky to have a thumb at all, huh?
I can't wait to get home, resolder, and see if the thing still works. I think this has been a blessing in other ways though, when I put my water block back on the system is running about 110f, where it was at about 130f before. I'm thinking I wasn't putting enough pressure on the whole shebang, but I can't be certain because I had the thing tore - down and back togther 6 -7 times over the past 2 months, the only other variable is that I used Arctic Silver, but I don't think 30 degress of credit goes to AS2, do you?

 

[Colin]

200 C is dang hot! BTW, it's the silicone that scorches.

The best way to test a pelt is to hold it by the edges and apply a 6 or 12 volts for a couple of seconds. You will feel the hot and cold sides so you can install the pelt properly without contaminating the working surfaces with the oils from your skin.

 

[Colin]

My guess is the clamping pressure between the coldplate and waterblock. I thought your pelted temps were a little high to start with. You may want to put a Compunurse thermistor on your coldplate. This way you know what is going on. I don't even start my computer until the coldplate is at -5C.

 

[toutin]

I'm not sure, but I remember reading something saying in short "no arctic with pelts" (maybe just a dream)

 

[Colin]

toutin (Jul 23, 2001 02:43 p.m.):
I'm not sure, but I remember reading something saying in short "no arctic with pelts" (maybe just a dream)

More like an urban legend................

 

[killem1x1]

I found this in the Tips / peltier section:
"DrRom's 172 Watt Peltier Cooling"
DrRom - 2/4/01


"Generic silicon heat transfer compound - Arctic Silver has big problems with the clamping pressure & temps - it ends up forming a "foil" layer on all surfaces which CAN'T be good, as it is adding another layer for heat to transfer through. Waiting for some Danfoss compound (as used in Vapochill systems) to arrive in the next few days. "

 

[killem1x1]

Anyone familair with "Danfoss" compund? Or an equivalent?

 

[Colin]

killem1x1 (Jul 23, 2001 03:23 p.m.):
I found this in the Tips / peltier section:
"DrRom's 172 Watt Peltier Cooling"
DrRom - 2/4/01


"Generic silicon heat transfer compound - Arctic Silver has big problems with the clamping pressure & temps - it ends up forming a "foil" layer on all surfaces which CAN'T be good, as it is adding another layer for heat to transfer through. Waiting for some Danfoss compound (as used in Vapochill systems) to arrive in the next few days. "

More urban legend. If the clamping pressure disperses the silicone and the silver particles compress to form a foil with microscopic contact with both surfaces, thermal conductivity will improve as long as the two surfaces are not allowed to shift positions. Think about it. I have been in contact with a fellow at Michigan State University that uses Arctic Silver in a cryostat at 77 degrees Kelvin. Arctic Silver outperformed all other thermal compounds tested in the cryostat.

 

[RadioActiveDog]

DrROM

Does anyone have any information on DrRom?
Please contact me if you know anything about where to find this person. Andrew James Barsing
AKA
DrROM
Stez
LIKWED
JBARS
To learn more why see
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64817

 

[packratbob]

More urban legend. If the clamping pressure disperses the silicone and the silver particles compress to form a foil with microscopic contact with both surfaces, thermal conductivity will improve as long as the two surfaces are not allowed to shift positions. Think about it. I have been in contact with a fellow at Michigan State University that uses Arctic Silver in a cryostat at 77 degrees Kelvin. Arctic Silver outperformed all other thermal compounds tested in the cryostat.

Yup i think the key is not allowed to shift. just a small bump or tap or even prolonged vibrations true ur case frm fans might cos the contact between the foil to break. i thought siver expoxy was the way to go with pelt. anyways thats just wat i thought.