Yes, Sir! I remember that. You advised to try + 0.1 / 0.2 vSOC.
I thought that if let’s say +0.1 makes the job then I should not go higher in this regard. That’s why I said I was trying to know the “limit”. Isn’t that right?
Btw, on +0.15 it’s also ok.
Right now I’m passing tests in TestMem5 (Extreme1 @anta777 config) at +0.125.
I don't have a ton of experience with Ryzen, mostly just with Zen 3, as I have 3 CPUs. I have a few sets of ram, and I spend some time in various forums. From what I have seen, Ryzen does best with Samsung B-Die. I never see anyone saying they have problems running them, or overclocking them. But I see problems with literally every other chip.
No longer true. The Ryzen 5xxx and 7xxx generations do not seem to be picky about RAM like the early Ryzens were. But using high amounts of higher speed RAM spread over four sockets instead of two puts an extra strain on the IMC.
I don't have a ton of experience with Ryzen, mostly just with Zen 3, as I have 3 CPUs. I have a few sets of ram, and I spend some time in various forums. From what I have seen, Ryzen does best with Samsung B-Die. I never see anyone saying they have problems running them, or overclocking them. But I see problems with literally every other chip.
I guess it's because people are clueless and mainly read what others have to say and repost it later. 90%+ threads about DDR4 are about Samsung B. It's hard to find any DDR4 guide/tips thread about Micron or Hynix. People who have never tried any other IC say that everything else than Samsung B is bad. I see everywhere that Samsung B-die is the best ... because it is for overclocking. However, regarding stability or compatibility, it's the same as Hynix or Micron. For higher frequency or capacity kits, Hynix or Micron are actually better. So Samsung is the best in its small 8GB/module world
For some reason, AMD DDR4 motherboards are better optimized for Micron. Intel DDR4 motherboards seem to be optimized for Hynix. At least, this is what suggests memory training on various motherboards and maximum stable frequencies. All motherboards are optimized for Samsung in some way (tighter timings at lower frequencies, but almost only for 8GB modules), but also because it's the oldest, low-density IC.
I have already moved to DDR5 with all the settings and tests, but I remember that pushing DDR4 at 1.4V SOC (or higher) wasn't a problem. It's not recommended to keep it too high as it heats up everything related, but it shouldn't damage the CPU.
Btw. answering one of the other questions. In DDR4, almost everything is in SOC. In DDR5, some things can be separated in BIOS options. In DDR4, SOC is pretty much a voltage for IF/IMC and some other things.
Still here reading all the posts with big interest, thank you guys once again! After 2 weeks of horror I found a peace of mind!
Right now I'm Stable @ undervolted 5800x downclocked to 4400 Mhz with XMP on but manual settings for:
vCore: 1.142
vSOC 1.1
vDRAM 1.3 (did not try to go down yet, since plan to OC DRAM later manually)
Also inspecting some Manuals on RAM OC and Timings like this one - link. Any information in this regard is always appreciated!
Btw, what you think, while undervolting CPU and capping it (5800x) - is it enough just to set the "CPU Clock Ratio" and find the stable voltage or do I have to use some modern services they speak about on every corner: PBO / Curve optimizer / CPU Vcore and SOC Vcore Loadline Calibration etc...?
Still didn't manage to get into this, so if anyone have the relevant links to the proper description (Manuals) - please share.
p.s.: @Woomack could you suggest how can I try to find my IC for RAM and whether it's worth searching since there is a "silicon lottery" anyway?
I found this thread on how to read the code @ RAM's "nameplate" sticker but it's rather old.
I have 2 kits 2x8 DDR4-3000 Kingston HyperX Predator (HX430C15PB3K2/16) and try to compare Thaiphoon data with nameplate stickers on the kits:
1kit "42/2019 Hynix J-Die Deneb 21nm" (nameplate #DPM H 08 A19 20) - Hynix (due to the link above)
I have an important update within this thread and my "coldboot/warmboot" issue..
After I switched my main PSU back instead of test one - the first time I rebooted PC it did not boot again. So I suppose the PSU was not doing good some of the times even when PC managed to boot all the voltages were fine.
Right now I've bought a new Phanteks Revolt Pro 1000 PSU and a new Case (Thermaltake CTE C700 TG ARGB Mid Tower Chassis). We'll see how it works for now.
Anyway I got a lot of important and new information within this Thread and your support guys! Thanks a lot ❤
Have a nice holidays and be well!
p.s.: btw the Case (Thermaltake C700) is so beautiful. It has 90 degrees rotated Motherboard installation so there are pros and cons in this regard speaking about devices' connection comfort & cooling. But the case itself is thick, big, easy to mount and of very good quality. There is even a lil bigger one - 750 model.
pros:
airflow from all the 4x sides + motherboard backplate cooling from the 5th side panel
dust filters from all the sides (5) which can be changed easily
very comfortable mounting
cons:
all the connections (motherboard / PCI cards) are at the top - so you should pass all the cables through the cable canal inside the case. I bought 3 1 meter extension cables: usb+hub, DisplayPort M/F, patch cord so these cables are fixed inside and I have them at the back of the Case
not all the GPUs like Vertical mounting since the heat pipes not always do the best performance in case the condensed liquid in the heat pipe needs to go long distance back to evaporation chamber in bottom-up direction (my RX480 is doing the same as in my previous case, even cooler) - there is no stock way to fix GPU horizontally within this case but since it's Big there is plenty of space under the Motherboard so it can be placed there inna custom way within riser cable
Yeah man, I’ve watched the reviews - it has top components and it’s collaboration with Seasonic manufactured on their factory. So it’s Seasonic we can state
I don’t need 1000w for now, that’s true, just want my PSU being loaded not more than 60%.
Yeah man, I’ve watched the reviews - it has top components and it’s collaboration with Seasonic manufactured on their factory. So it’s Seasonic we can state
I don’t need 1000w for now, that’s true, just want my PSU being loaded not more than 60%.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.