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Little help please

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:thup: thanks spawn-inc for clarifying that.

Would you happen to have an opinion on the fan/rads set up? What I'm planing on doing is 2 fans per rad each pushing air, but the fans only have 35CFM to them. Should I pull air too?
 
I would push-pull on the Swiftech rads with those fans. I don't think they have quite enough static pressure to work efficiently on the Swifty rads due to it's higher FPI. Now if you were using RX240 or PA120.2 rads those fans would be golden in push (or pull). But then they might just work ok in push only too. But it's not like those fans are $20 a piece either.Get at least a couple extra and see if it makes a difference in cooling.
 
Here's what I got:
Yate Loon Quad Blue LED Silent 120mm Fan UV Blue 4 6.00
Yate Loon Medium Speed 120mm Fan (33dBa,70.5CFM) 4 3.99

OK, I spent more then I wanted but this way I'll cover all my bases. I'm gonna have to ask my last noob question, and maybe if I wait to have the rads in my hands, I wouldn't have to ask it but here it goes. How do I attach a rad with push & pull fans to the inside of my HAF932(I have the room)?
 
Ewww, I don't know about the room in that case as I don't have that model. I do have a HAF922 though. I assume that your 932 is taller, so you might have enough room to push-pull at the top side. Mount your fans to both sides of the rad, then you will have to hold the assembly up to the top and screw the fan screws into both fans through the holes in the top for the top fans, You will have to get some short screws that just go through the fan holes on the fan flange closest to the rad and that means you will have to open up those closed corners on the Yate Loons. I did that on my Yates with a Dremel tool and just cut the plastic between the sides away to where it looked like a normal open corner fan. And be careful that you don't cut the led wires while doing this (personal experience).
 
Ewww, I don't know about the room in that case as I don't have that model. I do have a HAF922 though. I assume that your 932 is taller, so you might have enough room to push-pull at the top side. Mount your fans to both sides of the rad, then you will have to hold the assembly up to the top and screw the fan screws into both fans through the holes in the top for the top fans, You will have to get some short screws that just go through the fan holes on the fan flange closest to the rad and that means you will have to open up those closed corners on the Yate Loons. I did that on my Yates with a Dremel tool and just cut the plastic between the sides away to where it looked like a normal open corner fan. And be careful that you don't cut the led wires while doing this (personal experience).

Wow, I have to see the fans and rad I guess cause I'm not getting it:eh?:. Could you link a picture of what you mean:-/?,sorry. Thank you.

By the way I tried looking it up but I can't seem to find any good pics or threads.
 
I'll see if I can snap a quick pic of the way I have my MCR220 rigged up on the outside of the case, so you can see how I am talking about mating the top side fans (that will connect the rad to the case itself) are made up onto a Radbox (which would be the case for you). I should be able post something in around 5 minutes.
 

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I'll see if I can snap a quick pic of the way I have my MCR220 rigged up on the outside of the case, so you can see how I am talking about mating the top side fans (that will connect the rad to the case itself) are made up onto a Radbox (which would be the case for you). I should be able post something in around 5 minutes.

You rock:attn::D
 
OK here's what I got done so far. But now I sprung a leak on my block :( !st road block;)
 

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you using a res or t-line?


and are those the stock barbs for the gtz?

I'm using a t-line, and they are the stock barbs. You know I'm trying to fill up the loop and I'm pumping the water like the sticky guide says to do but it seems like the pump isn't sucking the water in, it's pushing water down the loop?:bang head:confused:.

By the way I fixed the leak.
 
ok I just saw where I screwed up. I placed the t-line on the pump --> w block tubing(p-t-wb) instead of the rad ----> pump(R-T-P) would that make a diff?
 
OK fixed the leak, filled the loop, running the system, no leaks at this point. I wasn't expecting it to be so noisy. I don't have the fans yet and I checked the temp w/real temp and its the same as the OEM CPU fan I had before:) idle 44-45c I cant wait to see what it'll be with the fans!
 
ok I just saw where I screwed up. I placed the t-line on the pump --> w block tubing(p-t-wb) instead of the rad ----> pump(R-T-P) would that make a diff?

yes, i was going to tell you but i thought you knew that you where doing it.


and the noise is likely air in the line. it will be hard to bleed they way you have it TBH. the small air bubbles will be pushed past the T and not escape.


another thing you may want to do while were at it is to have it go res/t>pump>rads>blocks instead of pump>res/t>block>rads.
 
yes, i was going to tell you but i thought you knew that you where doing it.


and the noise is likely air in the line. it will be hard to bleed they way you have it TBH. the small air bubbles will be pushed past the T and not escape.


another thing you may want to do while were at it is to have it go res/t>pump>rads>blocks instead of pump>res/t>block>rads.

Sorry for the crappy pic. The t-line should be straight right? Tell me if the pic makes no sense.
 

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Sorry for the crappy pic. The t-line should be straight right? Tell me if the pic makes no sense.

with the way you have things now i would flip the pump around so the tube that is in the inlet right now becomes the outlet of the pump and visa versa.

then for the cpu block flip the tubes around so the inlet becomes the outlet and visa versa.

the t line could then stay the way it is.
 
with the way you have things now i would flip the pump around so the tube that is in the inlet right now becomes the outlet of the pump and visa versa.

then for the cpu block flip the tubes around so the inlet becomes the outlet and visa versa.

the t line could then stay the way it is.

Sorry for the very late reply, ok too care of the routing (the loop is now the way you said) and bled the line for the longest time! I think I will definitely buy a res in the future. This friday I will get my fans and I should be good. Thanks for all you help!:rock::grouphug::D
 
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