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New Build for Christmas 2013 (help needed)

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@RollingThunder

Ok, thank you for your words. I understand people sometimes aren't in a good mood. I didn't take it personally. I'm still open to his opinions, he could have said exactly the same thing without being so "harsh". Or better yet, answered my bullet questions. Anyways, I'll do like the above members have mentioned and leave this thread open for build advises and open one in water cooling for questions regarding that topic.

Eduardo,

We have a top-notch collection of expert water cooling members here including Conundrum. However there are times no tactfulness and patience is shown for those newly introduced to water cooling. I'll move this thread to Water Cooling. Please carry on with your thread there.
 
Welcome to OCF!

Hi all,

I'm thinking on building a new PC this Christmas and would like to know your opinions.

The PC is to be for both gaming and working (I'm a software developer). Furthermore the PC is going to be water cooled and overclocked.

Here are my plans so far:
_______________________________________________
CORE

CPU: Intel Haswell Core i7-4770K
MOTHERBOARD: Asus Maximus VI Formula
GRAPHICS CARD: EVGA Nvidia GTX 780
STORAGE: Samsung 840 Series Pro 256GB
MEMORY: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB 1866 (2x8)
PSU: Seasonic X-850 850 Watt
CASE: CORSAIR Obsidian 900D
MONITOR: Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM
_______________________________________________

WATER COOLING PARTS

CPU WATERBLOCK: XSPC RayStorm CPU WaterBlock - INTEL
GPU WATERBLOCK: XSPC Razor GTX Titan / 780
PUMP: XSPC Laing D5 Vario Pump with 3 Pin Tacho Cable Single Edition
PUMP TOP: EK Water Blocks EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal
RADIATOR: XSPC RX360 Triple Fan Radiator
RESERVOIR: XSPC Photon 270 Tube Reservoir
TUBING: XSPC High Flex White
QUICK DISCONNECTS: Koolance QDC (New) Push Connect, No-Spill
FANS Scythe 120 mm 1450 RPM Gentle Typhoon (to be used for push-pull setup on the radiator)
_______________________________________________

I'm definitely a noobie and I welcome all input.

Not bad for a first list. You seem to understand what is needed in components to start H20. You just need to brush a little more by reading in the sticky section on certain questions that you may have and will do my best to assist you.

My questions would persist in the field of noise level you are aiming for. Reason why I ask is if you're going for low noise operations than you would need low FPI radiators as I see you have chosen but the difference is you would need more "raddage" as we like to call it as opposed to high FPI, high RPM, screaming setup. Rule of thumb when you aim for low FPI/low noise/low RPM is 120.2 per chip.

1) Regarding the graphics card, should I go for a Superclocked or Classified version? Since I'm going to water cool the graphics card it isn't worth going
for any of those right? I guess I can overclock it myself...

The question is do you care to spend the extra money? What OC are you aiming for? 1300mhz+? High bench points? 5-10 FPS more than reference in gaming? The classified would be the answer. I would know, I have one. lol I run circles around titans. Only wish I had their Vram. I can honestly say the Classified is the king of all 780s.

On another note, the cheaper reference 780 can get close to Classy OC's IF you're LUCKY. By close I mean 1250-1300+. I might have heard of 1400 but that's VERY RARE. People think they can save money by OC the reference or SC to the Classified standards but the truth of the matter is chances are you won't get close. Very few have gotten close but that's if you're super lucky with the chip that was put on it. Usually it goes like this, if you're going to OC a reference, don't buy the SC model but buy the standard reference model and OC it to the SC specs and up. I don't think comparing the SC to the Classified is fair. Classified has more power phases (cleaner power) and a much bigger PCB.

If you we're to drop $800 on a GPU with the hydro copper on it than I would go with the classified for $30 more. You get a nice warranty intact. (EVGA) They usually sell better since they're limited in production as opposed to the reference. That's just me but you could be fine with a standard 780 hydro copper. You'd save more money by buying the 780 hydro copper/780 classy hydro copper as compared too if you bought the GPU and block separate. Than you wouldn't have to deal with 2 separate warranties if something should go wrong with either part which would be a pain in the wazoo. Again its up to you.

On a sidenote, my Classified is running @ 1400+mhz @ 1.35v. Memory is OC'd to 300+ on the OFFSET just have to figure out the math on that one. My load temps can get up to 50c-55c but than again I am pushing this card pretty hard. I have these settings set 24/7 and feel comfortable with them. I've seen a average gain of 10 FPS on Unigine's Valley Benchmark at these settings. I even OC'd it @ 1500 @ 1.35v and no OC on memory. It ran but started showing signs of artifacts but not to the point I had to stop it. It never locked up.

2) Regarding the memory, maybe they cost too much for the performance they offer. Meaning I could get similar performance at lower cost or even better performance at the same cost. The thing is I'm also planning on getting the Dominator® Platinum Light Bar Upgrade Kit (2x) for the looks. However, if you really think that this memory choice is not adequate, please advise me on a better one.

Cost on memory might be a bit high at the moment since there was a fire at the worlds 2nd biggest chip plant overseas. I even heard it might not go back online. I don't know but we'll have to move on, on that note. lol

I personally like Corsair and only personally buy Corsair Ram. I am sure others will chime in with other companies but I like Corsair and their customer support.

Not familiar with software engineers in reference to how much ram they need but 16 GIGs of ram is starting to the be the norm.

3) Is this PSU adequate? Am I overshooting on the wattage? I chose this one because I believe they are quite good and silent, and thinking that in the future I might add more stuff to my build, another graphics card for instance.

Seasonics are great. At the moment it is overkill but won't be if you decide say grabbing another 780. Nothing wrong with extra headroom for OC's and all the other components that add up.

4) I really liked the 900D case but I think someone once said that with great features comes a high price and I'm not sure if I'm willing to pay that much for a case. Should I just open my wallet or you think I'm just jumping the 900D hype train?

I love the case. It's very roomy for anything really. Great for water cooling. My 800D's design lacked the amount of radiator room, cable management and cool air flow that this case brings to the table. Check out my recently new build log of the 900D case next to the 800D. Should give you an idea how MASSIVE this case is and why it has that price tag. You have enough room to put enough radiators for a quad SLI/CF GPU setup and CPU.

There are a lot more affordable newer cases out there that are designed for water cooling but not at that size. But if you insist you want this case, I won't change your mind in doing so. lol

5) The monitor choice was a compromise between the gaming, work and cost. The hardcore gamers will probably throw stones at me for suggesting an IPS monitor but I think for my casual gaming it's more than fine. Or am I wrong? Should I go for a different monitor?

Actually the gamers I've talked to would recommend IPS monitors for gaming. High response time but great colors. I think if its for surround setups you want low response time as opposed to high MS from IPS.

6) This is going to be my first water cooling setup. I've researched a lot but I still have lots of doubts. For instance I still don't get very well the ID OD stuff. Can all of the components I've listed be put together? I was planning on using the Koolance QDC at every entry point. For instance: a couple at the in and out of the CPU block, another couple at the in and out of the gpu block and so on. Am I doing it wrong? I understand this greatly increases the cost since it will be quite a lot of QDCs but I do like the flexibility they give me.

You don't need to add a QDC on every input and output of every block, reservoir, pump and radiators. You can if you want to but it will cost you in a couple ways. For one, cost will be high, figure $100+ on QDC's alone. Secondly, you will punish the loops flow. Those even in a few videos that use that many QDC's are either lazy to drain their loop which I can understand can be a pain priming and bleeding or folks who benchmark quite often and swap components. Other than that, I would use one just for drain as stated before. If you still feel the need to add that many QDC's than by all means go ahead. Just make sure you have a good pump with good head pressure. (MCP-35x)

7) Which kind of QDCs should I use? They have QD2, QD3 and QD4 series...

From my understanding each one comes in a different size. QD4s for example are the ones I use and are the bulkiest ones. If I would've known I would've went with QD3. But the QD4's I believe have better flow than the rest.

8) Which ID OD should I use for the tubing?

Depending which size you get, I use 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. I keep all my compressions, QDC's the same number as my tubing. They are the biggest tubing and fit really tight on my fittings and QDC for the added security. You will lose some skin making these fit but it's worth it.

9) Can you advise me on how the water system should be set up? From your experiences what is the best order for the loop?

Don't really matter. Some do it for cosmetic appeal for their rig as long as the reservoir is above the pump or liquid physics play a roll and feeds the pump naturally whether its on or off.

10) Is there anything coming out from now to Christmas that I should take into consideration?

Yes. In all honesty I would bring Xmas early to Black Friday Week. You will find ALOT of DEALS and SAVE. As for "Cyber Monday" I saw the same prices I had purchased before during the black friday week so you don't have to wait till Monday in most cases. Free shipping, 30%-60% off on some of these components. I didn't really see any deals from the H20 parts from Frozencpu but did see on PC components. I can almost guarantee you that you will save hundreds. :D I know I did. :p

Before my arms fall off, lol I would honestly advise to read up a bit and see a few more videos and pictures. Make sure you figure out what H20 components you will use and that you feel you will in the future and use that information on choosing a case. If you say screw it and grab the 900D than you won't need to do all that. The thing is a monster and make sure you have room for it. lol But if you don't than try and see how much space will be needed for your radiators, fans (push n pull?) etc. Most make the mistake by buying a case first and than setting up for H20 than realizing they have to hang everything outside of their rig because there wasn't ample room internally.

Good Luck on your adventure and please take your time as well as posting some pictures for us when all is said and done. :salute:
 
Also look at the 750D it's got tons of room for watercooling and it's cheaper, it's the one I plane on upgrading to
 
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