Please review my build - Gaming i5 13600k.

[GreenSmoke]

I am looking to price out a new build and would like your opinions on things to change or any suggestions you may have.

My priorities are:

1. Quite - I like quiet parts that maybe don't produce as much heat to minimize the overall noise.
2. Gaming - The most intensive game I plan to play is Cities Skylines 2.
3. Value - If you think I could get more for less, please let me know.

Some specific questions and notes:

• Will the monitor I chose capitalize on the video card I picked?
• The PSU - PCPartPicker Estimate is 543W so I took 543W*1.5+100W = 914.5W - is the 1000W I chose good enough?
• I will need to make sure I get the right CPU cooler, the one listed below may not be for the LGA1700 but I couldn't get PC part picker to select the correct one, there is one available though.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($284.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($354.54 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6600 CL32 Memory ($236.45 @ Amazon)
Storage: Corsair MP700 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Silicon Power XS70 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.97 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card ($599.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($269.89 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32UN500-W 31.5" 3840 x 2160 60 Hz Monitor ($296.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2420.70

Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-01 11:51 EDT-0400

Thank you in advance for your thoughts and time.

 

[Zerileous]

I guess it depends on what refresh rate you're wanting. The 4070 can do 4k 60Hz but it is a stretch. If you're expecting a minimum of 60fps all the time, I think you'll need a more powerful card. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4070-review/6

PSU is more than enough. A high quality 850w unit would be plenty.

Depending on how your board handles core performance boost / how you run things, even the 13600k can pull over 200w. A 360mm AIO would be better suited to this, especially if quiet is a priority.

 

[JLK03F150]

I would go for the Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX instead of the Z690 version. It's currently $250 @ newegg.

I agree that an 850 watt PSU is plenty and I'll add that you don't need more than a Gold cert. A good Gold will have a 10 year warranty and be ~$100 less than that Titanium.

 

[GreenSmoke]

One reason I went with the Power Supply: be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply is the noise review from cybenetics. It gets A+ at 115V and 230V. I will see if I can find something comparatively quiet at 850W level that saves money.

I did switch out the Z690 for the Z790. I think I will evaluate my RAM again also and select something off the MoBo supported list.

As for the AIO, I will have to look into those. If anyone has an immediate suggestion, let me know.

 

[Kenrou]

Why 64gb memory?

 

[GreenSmoke]

Why 64gb memory?

I meant for it to be 32gb but can't read. When I looked for memory that was compatible with the Z790, I fixed that also.

I am not sure I am convinced about changing the cooling solution to an AIO. I need to do some more research. I have also not found an 850W PSU yet, need to keep looking for that also.

That said, this is where I am at currently, changed items in red:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($284.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL32 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Corsair MP700 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Silicon Power XS70 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($91.97 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card ($599.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ B&H)
Monitor: LG 32UN500-W 31.5" 3840 x 2160 60 Hz Monitor ($296.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1906.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-02 07:45 EDT-0400

 

[EarthDog]

I like it overall. The changes I would make...

1. buy faster RAM. DDR-6000 is what I would consider the bottom end at this point. I'd look around DDR4-6400 CL30, personally.
1a. Buy 2x24GB so you don't have to sweat it later on (I see you have 4x8GB now).
2. Seasonic brand 850W PSU is where my money is at. You can let your pet pick it and, at worst, get a good unit (at best one of the Tier1A. A lot of them have 'hybrid modes' where the fan doesn't kick on until certain load levels/temperatures.. I can't hear my Seasonic (850W Titanium) over the case fans (13900K and 4090).

 

[Woomack]

Everything seems fine, but a couple of thoughts.

A similar setup works fine at 650W 80+ Gold PSUs. Like I have a Ryzen 7600+ RTX3070 (280W TDP version) that runs fine on 600W SFX Corsair PSU, and the PSU runs semi-passive. RTX 4070 is like 200W max, and 13600K is like 150W max in games, so the listed setup will be like 400W max under load. I'm not saying don't buy anything stronger as then PSU will be for sure silent, but it can be a waste of money.

I wouldn't get an AIO cooler for lower series CPUs ... or if this PC won't be changed/upgraded in the next 2+ years. The typical life of an AIO cooler is shorter than that of a high-quality air cooler.

I'm not sure why you want a PCIe 5.0 SSD. It's still a new product, runs hot, usually throttles under extended higher load, and costs much more than not much slower (at least in games) PCIE 4.0 SSD. Just my thoughts after testing a couple of PCIe 5.0 SSDs (and all are using the same controller). I would get a more regular SSD, even cheaper DRAM-less series, for the OS (like Patriot VP4300 Lite or Teamgroup MP44), and something faster for games. You will probably save about $70 on the same capacity and barely lower performance. These Silicon Power XS70 are great SSDs, so why not get two of them? (or 1TB for OS and 2TB for games).

2x24GB RAM seems like a better option right now, but I see that prices are weird. I would say 7200 CL34/36, but it costs much more and isn't so much faster than the 6000 CL32.

If you consider some other, cheaper components, then in the same budget, there should be enough money to get RTX 4070Ti, so about a 20% faster card (starting at about $800).

 

[GreenSmoke]

I found this for RAM:

Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-7200 CL34 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)

I can also only bury my head in shame as I have been shooting for two sticks totaling 32G this whole time and missed twice now. Simple math and simple reading are really hard. I have no excuse.

Should I care if the RAM is on the list of MoBo supported RAM?

I have also been looking for DDR5 over DDR4. Most of what I found as far as videos and reading pointed me that direction...

 

[EarthDog]

I can also only bury my head in shame as I have been shooting for two sticks totaling 32G this whole time and missed twice now. Simple math and simple reading are really hard. I have no excuse.

I still think you should look at the 2x24GB kits...

Should I care if the RAM is on the list of MoBo supported RAM?

When you get into the higher speeds like you are (7200), I'd say yes. At least you know it worked when they tested it.

I have also been looking for DDR5 over DDR4.

Glad you have some vids to support what we've said. The price difference isn't much between them at this point.

 

[GreenSmoke]

I feel like I am pulling the rug out from under the previous post, but hopefully it's for the better. I convinced myself that a better GPU would be worth it. I also considered the previous suggestions and worked those in.

The Seasonic PSUs are like +$100 or more, I am still debating if that's necessary. I feel like I can get a quality, quiet PSU without Seasonic and save a little there.

I am up to 700W on PCPart Picker also.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($284.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 48 GB (2 x 24 GB) DDR5-7200 CL34 Memory ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Silicon Power XS70 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($91.97 @ Amazon)
Storage: Silicon Power XS70 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($91.97 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card ($899.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: LG 32UN500-W 31.5" 3840 x 2160 60 Hz Monitor ($296.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2453.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-02 12:43 EDT-0400

 

[EarthDog]

I am up to 700W on PCPart Picker also.

You can definitely find a less expensive but solid unit.

Lol, that pcppicker estimate is trash.

 

[GreenSmoke]

I was talking to the people from the PSU tier list and they talked me down also. They pointed me toward this:

Power Supply: Corsair HX850 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($133.91 @ Newegg)

 

[JLK03F150]

I was talking to the people from the PSU tier list and they talked me down also. They pointed me toward this:

Power Supply: Corsair HX850 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($133.91 @ Newegg)

That's a great deal! Jump on it before the sale ends!

 

[GreenSmoke]

That's a great deal! Jump on it before the sale ends!

Good call. I ordered it. I guess that ends any further waffling .

 

[GreenSmoke]

So I built this build but I am using my LG 34UM67 monitor while I wait for the monitor for the build to arrive. When I plug into the Display Port on the graphics card, I get a poor display in bios. It flashes, where it shows the screen for a split second then goes blank for about 5 seconds, then shows for a split second, then nothing for 5, over and over. When I switch to HDMI, it works fine in Bios. If I let it boot all the way to windows, it works fine with the Display Port.

I have updated all the drivers (monitor, video card, windows, chipset, everything I can think of). If there are any specific drivers I should consider, please ask, maybe I missed something, I listed what I considered important to this issue.

I am going to try the onboard display port in a bit but I thought I would post my question and get a shot at the morning crowd's support.

As a side note, I had to use an old corsair power cable the HX850 did not have enough 8 pin connectors to make all the necessary connections. I needed 5, it came with 4. I had an old HX though and read the cable would be compatible. It is connected to the video card. I mention this just in case it might be part of the issue.

 

[EarthDog]

If you use the DP on the board, you're then using the integrated GPU in the CPU, not the graphics card.

Drivers aren't really important here as they aren't used in the BIOS.

I'm guessing the monitor doesn't like the signal it's getting from the GPU and trying to work with it.

 

[GreenSmoke]

My thought about using the integrated GPU is just to see if the same thing happens. It would rule out the monitor, to your second point.

To your second point about the monitor not liking the signal, any idea why it would only not like it pre-Windows? It works fine once it's in Windows.

I am about to test the cpu's GPU, I will report back if that has any impact.

This is a head scratcher for me.

 

[EarthDog]

That's a way to see if the monitor is bad, but I don't think it is.

I don't know the reason. It seems like it's just not liking what it's giving out. While this happens, try working through the monitor's menu and see if you can finagle something out of it.

 

[GreenSmoke]

Using the onboard GPU results in NO signal at all during BIOS but I still get a signal once it gets to Windows. While I'm 99.9% with you that the monitor is grumpy cat here, the .01% science in me says it could also be the cable. I haven't googled it yet but don't display port cables have a chip in them?

The monitor's menu uncovered nothing for me.

Also, when I describe this problem and talk about the bios phase, I also mean I don't see the splash screen or anything (aside from the split second chop) prior to the windows log in while on Display Port.

I think I am going to just put this on ice for the moment and just wait for the new monitor and pray to grandfather 8bit that it's just this giant spreadsheet monitor.