Some Waterblock making questions

[gulp35]

Here is my waterblock Idea.

It it just the center part of the block it will be milled out of a 2x3 peice of copper.

I am planning to build it with my drill press. the bigger holes are going to be drilled with a 1/2" bit and the smaller holes in the middle 1/4"or maybe a 3/8" bit. The reason I decided to make the holes in the center smaller is because the thermal conductivity of copper is 4.01W/cmK compared to water at .6W/cmK so I wanted for the water to contact the copper the most possible (I may be wrong I looked this up on google while writing this). just wanted to know what you guys think.

PS What pressure is supposed to be exerted onto the die of the chip. Have heard from 20lbs to 100lbs.

 

[BabyEater]

I made one similar to that with a drill not too hard too make 1/4" sounds about right for the holes in the channels i went for 6.5mm as me block was only 10mm thick .
something about 25lbs i think

 

[JFettig]

i made one like that, heres waht i did, i drilled 9 holes, like a 3x3 grid with a 3/8 bit, then connected them up with a dremel, worked great!

 

[gulp35]

New WB Idea

Here is another Idea I drew up during history class.

the gray and black circles are where the barbs will go. I was thinking for the intake to go in the black b/c i would like the channels to go from larger to smaller instead of vice versa.
I would love to have alot of feedback because i am a complete noob to waterblock making.

 

[strokeside]

Most blocks would have the flow the other way around, as the creators believe the cold water coming in the center (where the CPU touches the block making it the hottest part but not my much) helps cool the CPU core better.
Having water go from small channels to large does not matter too much as all it does is help increase flow rate by reducing flow restriction, and it gives the water more time in contact with the copper, which helps it absorb more heat.
Your second idea has a Lot more surface area and should give better results.

Why not do a block with an 1/2" inlet at one side and a 1/2" outlet at the other, with mutliple 1/4" or 3/8" channels going in parallel to each other, kind of like a grill. you could even make the channels that pass over the CPU core bigger for more flow and gheat removal, and keep the outer ones smaller as they don't need the same flow as the core ones.

Some of my theory might be a bit wonky, so do not do something base don it until you get someone else saying the same thing. just keep thinking about it, asking questions about other peoples designs and why they use them, and your designs will change and evolve into better ones until you finally have one that works really well. Taking your time to plan it and not rush to make a block and your end result will be great.

 

[Cathar]

The reason I decided to make the holes in the center smaller is because the thermal conductivity of copper is 4.01W/cmK compared to water at .6W/cmK so I wanted for the water to contact the copper the most possible (I may be wrong I looked this up on google while writing this).

PS What pressure is supposed to be exerted onto the die of the chip. Have heard from 20lbs to 100lbs.

That water thermal conductivity figure is only for water that isn't moving. With forced convection (moving water) that figure can be dramatically higher.

For AMD CPU's the recommend mounting pressure is 15-25lbs.

For Intel P4 CPU's the recommend mounting pressure is ~65-100lbs.

 

[Molybdym]

Check around and look for Cathar's design, that's a great model, and really nice results.

 

[gulp35]

I have seen Cathar's design but I want a block with only 2 barbs on it work the same if I used something like Cathar's design but instead of the inlets being on the outside pushing water in have an inlet on one side and a exit on the opposite?

 

[bigben2k]

Well, if you must have 2 barbs, do what I'm doing:

(as featured here )

 

[gulp35]

I am trying to keep the block simple so that it could be done with a drill press and a dremel and/or other typical workshop tools.

 

[gulp35]

Another one of my Ideas:

Input will be 1/2" going around the center piece of copper and exit is at the end of the spiral.

PS Masked how much are your Type-S being sold at. Also do you have a link to that 3x3 grid block you mentioned?

 

[Cathar]

This last picture you posted would be a fairly decent performer provided you get the water to force its way in on the opposite side of that central spike to where the water exits that central area.

 

[gulp35]

I was thinking that too. any suggestions on how I could fix that? or would a high powered pump do the job?

 

[gulp35]

Another Idea to try to make the block flow better

 

[gulp35]

Another block design that I think would work very well but It would be hard to mill out.

Please excuse the crappy Paint skills the mice at school are all gummy

 

[The Overclocker]

this idea is probably the best one: http://www.overclockers.com/tips997/

 

[JFettig]

Another one of my Ideas:

Input will be 1/2" going around the center piece of copper and exit is at the end of the spiral.

PS Masked how much are your Type-S being sold at. Also do you have a link to that 3x3 grid block you mentioned?

3x3 grid block? hmmm i dont remember, refesh my memory
YGPM

 

[gulp35]

i made one like that, heres waht i did, i drilled 9 holes, like a 3x3 grid with a 3/8 bit, then connected them up with a dremel, worked great!

This one I couldn't find a pic of it anywhere.

PS I think I am going to go with a plain deep channel spiral WB. no fancy stuff maybe somethin like Chiron's (i think that is his name) block that Masked just made with his mill. at least for now

 

[JFettig]

ooh yes, i remember, i took the copper peice, drilled 9 holes, so it was 3 in a line, then 3 then 3, then connected them in the maze patterin i wanted with a dremel

 

[#Rotor]

this idea is probably the best one: http://www.overclockers.com/tips997/

For some very strange reason I seem to want to agree with you on that one, a full 100%