Streacom FC8 Evo build

[Sprucemoose]

Hi!

I just wanted to share my first HTPC build with you. Up until now I have streamed my movies from a QNAP NAS to a WDTV Live with custom firmware. This has worked ok, I guess, but I wanted something more flexible. The WDTV also has some problems with mkv headers and on some files also a weird audio/video sync issue.

My specific needs would be to stream 24p .mkv-files, and simultaneously run the Spotify client in the background. Spotify will transmit the audio to an Apple airport extreme connected to my stereo at a different floor of the house (PulseAudio for Linux, Airfoil if I go for Windows), and I should be able to control Spotfiy through my Android phone.

Build consists of these parts:
Case: Streacom FC8 Evo Black
Motherboard: Intel DH77DF m-ITX
PSU: Streacom Nano 150W
RAM: 4GB of the cheapest Crucial RAM
CPU/GPU: Intel i3 3225 / HD4000 (TDP 55W)
SSD: OCZ Agility 4, 128GB
Remote: Inteset CIR receiver + remote
Thermal paste: Arctic Silver Alumina
Extra cables: Internal PSU extension (Important!!)

Parts bought, but not used:
Streacom USB 3.0 cable (not compatible with the mobo/case combination)


Build parts (Not too good a camera, sorry for the out of focus):



Now, the cooling solution on this case makes it a bit fiddly to build. This build is completely fanless, and the heat from the CPU is transferred through 4 copper rods to the aluminum chassis. These rods may interfer with several connectors on the motherboard. So if anyone thinks of a similar setup, look at the motherboard layout and think carefully about anything that the rods may interfer with! Also, take care with the Nano PSU. I've read several reports of people breaking it, when handling it too roughly. Also, On my motherboard, the PSU socket sits directly underneath the rods. The PSU is quite high, so without the low-profile extension cord, I would never have gotten it to fit.


Intel DH77DF motherboard:



Inteset CIR receiver and Remote:



Nano PSU 150W:



A good tip would be to connect any cables on the motherboard prior to installing the cooling rods. After assembly, there is not much space left.


Motherboard, CPU, Ram and cables installed:



Now, the heatsink and rods where a little messy. You have to apply thermal paste to several surfaces simultaneously, and this can be messy if you don't take your time. I used a lot of time dry-fitting everything before applying the paste. I also had to bend the rods to get a good fit. Test and adjust, test and adjust. I would also reccomend a non-conductive paste, the risk of accidentaly touching a vital component is present if you're not careful.

What I did was to loosely connect the rods to the CPU heatsink, but I didn't tighten the screws completely. This way, I was able to pull and push to adjust the length of the rods prior to fixating. Take your time here, getting a good fit should also mean better heat conduction.


Assembled heatsink and rods:



You should also dryfit and check that the rods connect well to the chassis. After thermal paste is applied, further adjustment will be messy.


Heatsink and rods installed:





I was going to connect the two front USB-ports to the USB 3.0 internal connector on the motherboard, but that didn't work out. The USB cable does not fit underneath the heat rods at all, even when I bent it to the max. I had to revert to the USB 2.0 cables. Not a big deal for me, but for anyone who needs the front ports to be 3.0, this motherboard/case combo is not for you.

I've read a lot of bad things about Streacoms own remote (buttons not working, not really RC6 compatible etc.), so I wanted to try the a different setup. I was also worried that the motherboard I originally had in mind (ASUS P8H77-I) would have problem waking the machine from S5 state through the remote. The Intel CIR connection should be a safe option, that's why I switched to the Intel motherboard.

The only problem of going down that path is that the case mounting holes for the IR receiver is only compatible with Streacom's own receiver. Now, I ended up just double taping the IR receiver to the side of the chassis, hopefully that'll work. On my case, there are some opacities on the inside of the IR window, but I hope it won't interfer with the signal. I also hope that the glue on the tape is non-conductive


IR receiver taped to side of chassis:



Soon to be covered up. Out of sight, out of mind:



Next up was installing the SSD. My SATA connector was a bit thick, so I had to mount the SSD with only two screws, leaving it installed at a slight angle, to accommodate for the connector.


Harddrive mounting plate installed:



Everything installed and good to go:





I really don't know if it'll work, though. Haven't powered it on yet ! Hopefully, everything will fire up, I really don't want to disassemble the thing again! I'm going to try to install Linux on the box first. Haven't had any real experience with Linux at all, but a first for everything, right?

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

bought a couple of these cases myself (discounted)
couldnt work the MSI board into it... CPU/heat sink missmatch

having used the cooling and F10 version I should think you wouldnt need all the pipes for a 55W so theres always that option.

a few inch more pipe and a couple of bends would have helped there design out.
they do sell a spacer to raise the heatsink an inch to resolve issues.


my only mild concern for your build was the pico dangling about :/
for example the corner of the pico has the power straight from the PSU exposed where its soldered in. not good to come into contact with anything. not suggesting you neglected it in any sense just that it needs to be safe.

also curious... is the clip for the expansion card on the back made from plastic or cast alu?
I thought the plastic ones looked like they had a limited life span. but the F10 case has aluminium instead

I like there cases... quality control can be a tad naff i.e. one heat sink they had forgotten to tap out one of the holes. no threads no bolt. :/

but on the plus side its some well cast and generous materials.

fun build and nice photos... cheers

 

[Sprucemoose]

@BobbyBubblehead: A big thanks for pointing out the exposed PSU. I'm glad I saw your reply now, haven't gotten around to plug in the box yet. This is quite a noob mistake on my part, and it should be really obvious (embarrassed) . I'll make sure to secure it or isolate it from its surroundings in some way. Thanks!

Also, the expansion card clip seems to be solid aluminum.

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

yes make sure its isolated and secured. and I expect it will fire up no problem

pleased the company realised and changed the clip... it was the only gripe I had #laughs#

 

[Sprucemoose]

I see what you mean by the power input being exposed in the corner of the PSU. So...I took out the packaging for the Streacom case, and cut some foam rectangles. I ended up securing it to the bottom of the harddrive plate. It sits quite firmly now and should be secure.

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

I face the same issue using my pico`s.
I was thinking potting box from the electronics store. room in my case to achieve that.
there just a bit tricky to find a good home for once there out of the intended socket.

just check periodically to make sure the foams not melting... then all is well
not noticed those picos geting warm myself but I still come back to check on things like that at first.

that top mounting plate for the drives is handy for cable ties... I had a drive filter that didnt fit so I immediatly went the same approach.

pleased we avoided the magic smoke anyhow

 

[Sprucemoose]

Yes, glad you managed to avoided a small disaster here . Thank you!

I guess the PSU will give off a little heat, but I doubt it will be able to melt the foam (?)...My first approach was actually to only have the foam in contact with the plastic connector...but when I tightened the wire, the whole thing rotated. To keep any part of the PSU from touching the harddrive plate, I had to put a piece of foam between the plate and the actual PSU. Hopefully it won't mind...won't short circuit, anyway

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

melt the foam... its a long shot. just happen to be talking with the buy who gives anything more power... mmMOaR!
so yes I had a 160w pico howling and almost good for marshmallows #laughs#

just dont do anything I do or listen to a word I say... you`ll be fine

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

oh when you get it going I would appreciate if you had a look in bios and no1 see if the 12v is rock steady. no2 note the exact 12v voltage.

part of my design thing... I find with a linear PSU it drops below 12v

but your using the model below so curiosity without spending money for me

 

[Sprucemoose]

melt the foam... its a long shot. just happen to be talking with the buy who gives anything more power... mmMOaR!
so yes I had a 160w pico howling and almost good for marshmallows #laughs#

just dont do anything I do or listen to a word I say... you`ll be fine

Haha, well I won't be pushing it that far. So far looking good, though. Booted into Linux install, now the real work begins, though...step 1, learn Linux!

 

[Sprucemoose]

oh when you get it going I would appreciate if you had a look in bios and no1 see if the 12v is rock steady. no2 note the exact 12v voltage.

part of my design thing... I find with a linear PSU it drops below 12v

but your using the model below so curiosity without spending money for me

The bios reports the 12V at 12,38. 5V at 5,12V and 3,3V as 3,40V. Rock steady...

 

[BobbyBubblehead]

cheers.

thats about what I expected... (something over 12v and rocksteady)
unfortunate my prototype power dances all over... honest miss calc on the engineers side... he tipped me off and wanted to recall so I had an idea it was gonner be an issue.

on the linear I get 11.59 - 11.55 and too much strain on boot

anyhoo thanks cos that tells me a little more about pico`s and there everage tick over

win win

 

[eg]

Nice work.
I was originally considering this motherboard but used the Asus H77 motherboard instead to avoid the power plug conflict.
You can see a picture of my build here on Flickr:

https://flic.kr/p/dKMbQu

. I think it came out pretty well.
I can recommend a few tricks for you to clean things up:
If you are not planning to use an optical drive, then take off the top hard drive mounting bracket, and attach your SSD to the side panel with double stick tape.
I'm not comfortable with your covering the pico PSU with insulating foam this way. It should at least have air cooling, or some kind of heat sinking on the transistors. With your current CPU TDP, I would second the suggestion to remove one of the heat pipes, and then you can properly mount the pico PSU on the ATX connector.

 

[Sprucemoose]

Nice work.
I was originally considering this motherboard but used the Asus H77 motherboard instead to avoid the power plug conflict.
You can see a picture of my build here on Flickr:

https://flic.kr/p/dKMbQu

. I think it came out pretty well.
I can recommend a few tricks for you to clean things up:
If you are not planning to use an optical drive, then take off the top hard drive mounting bracket, and attach your SSD to the side panel with double stick tape.
I'm not comfortable with your covering the pico PSU with insulating foam this way. It should at least have air cooling, or some kind of heat sinking on the transistors. With your current CPU TDP, I would second the suggestion to remove one of the heat pipes, and then you can properly mount the pico PSU on the ATX connector.

Thanks for the input. I'll seriously look at taking out a heating rod to acomodate for the PSU.

Looking at the picture I posted, I can see that it might seem that a lot of the PSU is in contact with the foam. I don't know if it means anything, but the foam is actually only covering the top of the two transistors, all other parts of the PSU is "free-floating". The larger foam pad is just supporting the white plastic contacts and don't have any contact with the actual PSU.

 

[Sprucemoose]

Finally, I got around to fixing the improvised insides of my HTPC. As suggested above, I took away one of the four heat rods to make room for the PSU. There was no sign of damage to the foam in contact with the psu, but still I'm glad that I don't have the need for it anymore.

I've read stories about people destroying their picoPSU's trying to disconnect it before (ripping off transistors etc.), so I took my time removing the psu from the extension cable. I used a flat head screwdriver in between the plastic parts to pry it off before connecting it directly to the motherboard.

So, if anybody was worrying about fire-hazard, now you can relax ;-) Thanks for great feedback from all of you!

 

[sflanker]

Sprucemoose,
Great post! I've been planing out an FC8 EVO OD / Intel DH77DF home theater PC, and the information you provided here has been incredibly useful.
Thanks!

 

[Sprucemoose]

Sprucemoose,
Great post! I've been planing out an FC8 EVO OD / Intel DH77DF home theater PC, and the information you provided here has been incredibly useful.
Thanks!

Hi! I'm happy you found the post useful. One thing that you might want to be aware of, is that I've had some trouble with Wake-on-Lan not working reliably. Sometimes it works, other times not.

Don't know if it is due to the motherboard/bios or that the psu not giving enough voltage at standby, though.

Just wanted to give you a heads up if WoL is important for you.

Edit: Since you were so kind as to resurrect my thread, I had to take a look on any new info regarding the hardware. Be aware that there is a network problem with later bios revisions. It seems that people loose their network connection after upgrading bios to 1.04 or above. Take a look at http://communities.intel.com/message/186259#186259 for more info.

 

[meph555]

I am looking to make a Haswell build using the FC8 Evo case.

It appears that the following motherboards are incompatible due to the CPU socket being in the top half of the board:

ASRock Z87E-ITX
ASUS Z87-ITX
EVGA Z87 Stinger

However I have found a board where the CPU is located in the bottom half of the board:

Gigabyte Z87N-WiFi

I would be very grateful if anyone could help me take a look at the layout of this board and confirm whether it would likely be compatible?