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Dry Ice 101: The Basics

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How can you not understand? You don't just fill the tube to the brim with ln2 like you do with a cup of soda. You need to do controlled splashes on the base so it doesn't get to cold, especially with AMD.
 
afireinside said:
How can you not understand? You don't just fill the tube to the brim with ln2 like you do with a cup of soda. You need to do controlled splashes on the base so it doesn't get to cold, especially with AMD.

Because I haven't heard this before. I didn't know there was such a thing as "too cold", I've never heard that before either...
 
The latest AMDs and apparantly some of the 65nm Intels have a so-called "cold-bug"; in which they have trouble either flat out functioning at a certain temperature cut off, or begin to require sometimes drastic decreases in HTT.
 
Yea, im not sure if it was my board or CPU.
But if I were to leave the computer off for 2mins with dry ice in the container.
It wouldnt boot, it would beep once then shut off.
But it ran fine so long as I didnt leave the computer off for 1min or more.
 
I would not suggest methanol. It is highly toxic by all routes of entry into the body. the exposure for methanol is 200 ppm; (parts per million) TWA( time weighted average); 260 mg/m3 TWA and the IDLH is 6000 ppm ( immediatly dangerous to life and health) TWA is explained as 8-hour Time Weighted Averages (TWA) - are an average value of exposure over the course of an 8 hour work shift.

Basically what all this says is that if you can smell Methanol you are over exposed.



I work with this stuff on a weekly basis, and I have to wear respiratory protection.

I think that the easiest item to get would be Ethanol that is denatured with Isopropanol; rubbing alcohol; this way you would not have to have a liquor licence to have it. there are plenty of websites that will teach you how to distill your own ethanol. You just have to apply for a permit. A lot of people are doing it now to help combat high gas prices.

remember if you do get ethanol that is denatured with anything DO NOT DRINK IT!!!! Denature means to make the ethanol poisionus to drink..
 
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Some great info in this thread...to bad we all found out that DDR-PIII is a scammer troll...what a shame i thought he was pretty cool
 
Aloha, folks!

The past year myself and another student did an overclocking project for school and worked with dry ice. Figured I'd lend some expereince we had with it.

Making the box:

We used an old peice of copper gutter, the peices we formed into the box were polished and cleaned. The edges were folded to help keep it together.

dscf0823do3.jpg


To join the walls, sauter from a hobby shop is a waste of time. We found it very difficult to get the sauter to stick. Instead we used plumbing sauter and a propane tourch.

dscf0825pa8.jpg

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The final product (minus the copper wire, that was just to keep everything together) :

dscf0830sc7.jpg


With the dry ice:

dscf0856ut6.jpg

(sorry, blurry pic)

dscf0857xb8.jpg


Again, we didnt know about liquid, so we improvised with that copper peice in the middle, it REALLY helped to make more surface area and get more out of the dry ice.
 
The effects:

(sadly, I lost the pics of it being used on one of the newer PCs we were cooling, this was an old board we were testing on. The temps, btw, were around -2 degrees F in this pic)

dscf0858ec3.jpg


The box and sauter were very strong and hardly effected by tempuratures as shown here when we poured LN2 in it.

dscf0860wh2.jpg


All in all it worked great, after smoothing out the bottom of the copper block we didnt even need thermal greese or anything. Issues with condensation were practically non-existent, the copper walls were too cold to allow ice on them to melt, although most of the equpiment we were working with was laughable by today's standards. Mostly I'm focusing on making a suitible box for applying dry ice.

Also, if you are too lazy to make a box or cant apply it to your processor well, a simple heatsink minus the fan will give similar results, just slap the dry ice on it, however you will probably have issues with condensation and the effect wont be nearly as great.

(this is on an amazingly old IBM, we tried this just to see if dry ice applied to a heatsink would work)
dscf0895tm8.jpg

(sorry, blurry pics again)
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Hope this was of some help, best of luck!

P.S - The comment about CO2 extingushiers and producing dry ice from them, it would work but wouldnt be that efficent. When they make dry ice, from my understanding, its compressed to a liquid then released into a low preassure room. Part of the liquid boils but it takes away heat from the rest which causes it to freeze into dry ice flakes. This is then compacted into blocks.
 
ManicHaze said:
if u want dry ice then order some omaha steaks. they come packed with a big chunk of it and then u can do some serious overclocking and grilling at the same time. lol.

so true
 
At the cafe' I worked at they get dry ice every tuesday... what a good day!

It's soooooo fun. bombs and more bombs. I get a lot of people angry w/me over my loud boom fetish.

BTW... dry ice inside beer = sucky beer.
 
Since this is a guide I figure I am OK to bump it as it was linked from the sticky.

How difficult is it for someone to switch between DICEing for a day of benching and then switching back to the normal cooler (I use a normal air venomous-x)? Is there a lot of cleanup?
 
Since this is a guide I figure I am OK to bump it as it was linked from the sticky.

How difficult is it for someone to switch between DICEing for a day of benching and then switching back to the normal cooler (I use a normal air venomous-x)? Is there a lot of cleanup?

Not too difficult. All you need to do is let the pot warm up a bit... Once it can safely be removed from the chip just take it out. If any frost has formed anywhere on the board you will want to let that dry out until you're 100% sure no moisture is left on it. Once the board is dry; you're good to go with air cooling.
 
I assume you have to remove the eraser gum stuff as well (which I read is re-usable?)
 
You don't really have to remove the insulation tbh. Remove most of it, but some of the more difficult places to insulate you can leave. If you just get frost king, the whole switch becomes very easy.
 
It takes me between 45 minutes and an hour to warm the pot, remove the insulation, dry everything out, stuff the mobo back in the case and put the normal cooler back on.
 
Just buy another system for benching (or cheap system for 24/7), that makes it easy :D All I have to do is move my monitor, mouse, and keyboard. If you have a KVM switch, then you don't even have to do that (if you're benching near your 24/7 system).
 
Just buy another system for benching (or cheap system for 24/7), that makes it easy :D All I have to do is move my monitor, mouse, and keyboard. If you have a KVM switch, then you don't even have to do that (if you're benching near your 24/7 system).

That would be nice if I could do that, but yeah, definitely don't have the funds to just buy another machine for benching, and my 24/7 machine is my gaming/benching machine. So more importantly I just have to be careful with the PC (don't want to break it).

Thanks for the tips, all. Going to do some more homework here and on XS to see what my capabilities are.


Next question - is there a 'go-to' DICE pot that is purchased, or do most people make their own somehow? I was checking out the Kingpin stuff (seems pretty expensive @ around $200 for the F1 Gemini, which also appears to be made for LN2 only and would have to be modified for DICE usage).

lol, forum search for the win - http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653113&highlight=pot

Looks like this is the one to go for? Koolance V2?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...er_-_CPU_CPU-LN2-V2.html?tl=c441s1121b4#blank
 
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