- Joined
- Aug 30, 2008
- Location
- Worcester,Ma
Just a thought for beginning WC
First off don't let this post deter you from what you want or have.
This in no way reflects the opinion of OC Members they are my thoughts and I will try to update this top post to make it as clear and concise as possible.
Second I'm not familiar with all products and how they perform.
If certain products work for you add a comment here.
Third this post was and is to help people who may want to do more with WC but just are not thinking that far ahead.
Okay, So lets start:
1. Kits meaning products such as Zalman,Koolance,and Thermaltake.
Are not well liked in that there performance tends not to be better than top air such as Thermalright ultra 120 extreme.
There may be other problems too.
I call them Plug n' plays as usually it's all self contained.
This is not a reflection of how easy or hard they're to install.
1a. LCS cases have had problems with the WC pump.
I've read people having to return the case to manufacturer.
2. With more conventional WC all individual parts can be swapped out.
Example: Swiftech or Danger Den you're originally locked into your parts with medium to near top performance.
And if something breaks down you can either buy the replacement parts from them or go to a vender that sells 3rd-party parts.
3. Your other option is to buy the pieces from reputable online retailers or maybe a computer shop your good with for WC.
4. If you have questions about WC this forum is the place to go.
Not everbody trusts reviews, so visit these places for a more balanced opinion.
5. You will read this further down and it's very good advice even if it takes awhile Read the water cooling stickies.
5a. The best advice is sometimes the simplest.
Now lets talk about parts:
1. Most WC blocks are current for CPU's and GPU's alike.
There can be cooling differences but nothing you should worry about.
The two praised blocks for cpu are EK supreme and Dtek fuzion v2 and it seems a third may be Swifttech apogee GTZ there are other CPU blocks out there but these are considered the best.
2. As for the pump the D5 by liang or MCP655 by Swiftech seem the choice.
3. Graphics blocks are a bit harder as there are people that prefer full coverage and others prefer the GPU block with ramsinks.
For full blocks EK nVidia, EK Radeon,Danger den and probably next choice Swifttech (nvidia).
For blocks with ramsinks Swiftech ranks high along with danger den and Dtek.
As with CPU blocks there are more but these are considered the best.
4. You want full copper radiator
Rads. in no particular order Swifttech, Danger Den, Thermochill,etc..
If you don't want the rad. in your case you'll have to get a rad box which gives a little distance from the back of your case for air flow.
One other point all rads need fans for best performance.
I dont give sizes if you need help with a build ask the forum.
5. Tubing many brands and colors get at least 10' with the minimum dimensions being 3/8" ID.
1/2" ID prefered choice.
And 7/16 ID is choice for a tight fit and better leak protection.
Don't forget you'll need worm clamps for 1/2" or 7/16" tubing.
For 3/8" steel spring hose clamps or the plastic reusable clamps.
Also you can buy compression fitting for 3/8" and 1/2" tubing.
6. Resevoirs you can buy one that fits your drive bay by far the easiest res. but they also have flat base round and square ones.
Some people don't even use a res. they use a fill port which requires you to cut a hole on the top of your case with a t-line where a fillport to the t-connecter is the res.
7. I didn't cover nb,sb,or mosfets as not everybody use these and Swiftech H2O-compact, H2O-220 and danger den don't include those parts anyways.
And here's your basic custom WC setup prices:
1. CPU: dtek $64.95 ,ek supreme $65.95 swifttech gtz $69.95
2. optional GPU Full cover $109-160 for blocks listed can go much higher with other brands
2a. optional GPU block w ramsinks $44-53 on products listed may need to purchase ramsinks $15-40
3. Rads 120.2-120.3 $35-150 add for external Rad box $20
4. Pump $77-90
5. Tubing $2-2.75 /ft
6. and your res., $15-80 if you go fillport t-line $16-19
7. This is a general pricing you still would need a thermal paste AS5,AS ceramique, my choice IC diamond,or other really good compound.
You still need to price your clamps or compression fittings and fans for your rad.
These prices can be cheaper than where I got prices.
Minimizing the risks inherent of WC.
1. Using a tube cutter for an even cut.
2. Compression fitting for a tighter seal.
Also using 7/16" tubing for a tighter fit over 1/2" barbs when using worm clamps .
3.Leak test for 24hrs.
Just hook your water cooling loop and a fan to power supply and put paper towels where the hose and barbs connect and also where water may fall on vid cards or bottom of case.
Fill up res. and turn on and off repeat until loop is full.
Use a purchased 20 or 24 pin jumper that connects to the atx 20 or24 pin.
Do not hook up your mainboard to the power supply
4. Follow a reg. maintainence schedule so you can spot if a leak may have developed.
5. Follow the recommended period to flush your system.
The longer Destilled water or non-conductive fluid stays in your system the more conductive it get's and the greater the chance of damage to your system on a leak.
Never reuse the fluid
6. After you do you a flush it would be a good recommendation to repeat 3a. if you have added to your loop.
7. Change your tubing every 3-5 yrs.
This is probably as close as you'll get to 100% safe.
Now go enjoy your WC setup.
This in no way reflects the opinion of OC Members they are my thoughts and I will try to update this top post to make it as clear and concise as possible.
Second I'm not familiar with all products and how they perform.
If certain products work for you add a comment here.
Third this post was and is to help people who may want to do more with WC but just are not thinking that far ahead.
Okay, So lets start:
1. Kits meaning products such as Zalman,Koolance,and Thermaltake.
Are not well liked in that there performance tends not to be better than top air such as Thermalright ultra 120 extreme.
There may be other problems too.
I call them Plug n' plays as usually it's all self contained.
This is not a reflection of how easy or hard they're to install.
1a. LCS cases have had problems with the WC pump.
I've read people having to return the case to manufacturer.
2. With more conventional WC all individual parts can be swapped out.
Example: Swiftech or Danger Den you're originally locked into your parts with medium to near top performance.
And if something breaks down you can either buy the replacement parts from them or go to a vender that sells 3rd-party parts.
3. Your other option is to buy the pieces from reputable online retailers or maybe a computer shop your good with for WC.
4. If you have questions about WC this forum is the place to go.
Not everbody trusts reviews, so visit these places for a more balanced opinion.
5. You will read this further down and it's very good advice even if it takes awhile Read the water cooling stickies.
5a. The best advice is sometimes the simplest.
Now lets talk about parts:
1. Most WC blocks are current for CPU's and GPU's alike.
There can be cooling differences but nothing you should worry about.
The two praised blocks for cpu are EK supreme and Dtek fuzion v2 and it seems a third may be Swifttech apogee GTZ there are other CPU blocks out there but these are considered the best.
2. As for the pump the D5 by liang or MCP655 by Swiftech seem the choice.
3. Graphics blocks are a bit harder as there are people that prefer full coverage and others prefer the GPU block with ramsinks.
For full blocks EK nVidia, EK Radeon,Danger den and probably next choice Swifttech (nvidia).
For blocks with ramsinks Swiftech ranks high along with danger den and Dtek.
As with CPU blocks there are more but these are considered the best.
4. You want full copper radiator
Rads. in no particular order Swifttech, Danger Den, Thermochill,etc..
If you don't want the rad. in your case you'll have to get a rad box which gives a little distance from the back of your case for air flow.
One other point all rads need fans for best performance.
I dont give sizes if you need help with a build ask the forum.
5. Tubing many brands and colors get at least 10' with the minimum dimensions being 3/8" ID.
1/2" ID prefered choice.
And 7/16 ID is choice for a tight fit and better leak protection.
Don't forget you'll need worm clamps for 1/2" or 7/16" tubing.
For 3/8" steel spring hose clamps or the plastic reusable clamps.
Also you can buy compression fitting for 3/8" and 1/2" tubing.
6. Resevoirs you can buy one that fits your drive bay by far the easiest res. but they also have flat base round and square ones.
Some people don't even use a res. they use a fill port which requires you to cut a hole on the top of your case with a t-line where a fillport to the t-connecter is the res.
7. I didn't cover nb,sb,or mosfets as not everybody use these and Swiftech H2O-compact, H2O-220 and danger den don't include those parts anyways.
And here's your basic custom WC setup prices:
1. CPU: dtek $64.95 ,ek supreme $65.95 swifttech gtz $69.95
2. optional GPU Full cover $109-160 for blocks listed can go much higher with other brands
2a. optional GPU block w ramsinks $44-53 on products listed may need to purchase ramsinks $15-40
3. Rads 120.2-120.3 $35-150 add for external Rad box $20
4. Pump $77-90
5. Tubing $2-2.75 /ft
6. and your res., $15-80 if you go fillport t-line $16-19
7. This is a general pricing you still would need a thermal paste AS5,AS ceramique, my choice IC diamond,or other really good compound.
You still need to price your clamps or compression fittings and fans for your rad.
These prices can be cheaper than where I got prices.
Minimizing the risks inherent of WC.
1. Using a tube cutter for an even cut.
2. Compression fitting for a tighter seal.
Also using 7/16" tubing for a tighter fit over 1/2" barbs when using worm clamps .
3.Leak test for 24hrs.
Just hook your water cooling loop and a fan to power supply and put paper towels where the hose and barbs connect and also where water may fall on vid cards or bottom of case.
Fill up res. and turn on and off repeat until loop is full.
Use a purchased 20 or 24 pin jumper that connects to the atx 20 or24 pin.
Do not hook up your mainboard to the power supply
4. Follow a reg. maintainence schedule so you can spot if a leak may have developed.
5. Follow the recommended period to flush your system.
The longer Destilled water or non-conductive fluid stays in your system the more conductive it get's and the greater the chance of damage to your system on a leak.
Never reuse the fluid
6. After you do you a flush it would be a good recommendation to repeat 3a. if you have added to your loop.
7. Change your tubing every 3-5 yrs.
This is probably as close as you'll get to 100% safe.
Now go enjoy your WC setup.
Last edited: