• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Overclocking Athlon II x250 with Asus M5A78L-M LX

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
yeah, plus trents if you can could you explain installing the TIM :D
 
Here, read this post from what I wrote in another thread today by Shadedluck: "AMD Phenom II X4 Overclocking Help-I am a Noob" post #27. The attachment mechanism for the cooler you ordered is going to be different but the paste application will be the same. Your cooler will clip on and use the stock plastic retention bracket.
 
Last edited:
With that cooler I always found it best to fill in all the gaps between the aluminum and the heatpipes, use a credit card to squeeze out the bubbles then get the entire base of the cooler tinted with a very small layer of TIM.

After that put a small amount on the center of your CPU..Place the cooler on the cpu and give it a twist 180 degrees each way, finally clamp it down.

What I did with my TX3 was wetsanded it with 400 grit car sandpaper. I kept the paper wrapped around a block to make sure the surface stayed even. It took a good bit of the machine marks away. If you venture into wetsanding the base, just a precaution..Those copper pipes are hollow. Don't apply alot of pressure and don't take off to much. There are pictures on the internetz where people sanded to much and poked a hole through a pipe. That will diminish the cooling effectiveness, but doing this successfully took a good 5c load temps off an FX-8120 processor. Not saying a Regor heats up like a FX cpu. But you can always look forward to better temps.
 
Thanks GamerMagnet.

Also, trents is this a basic summary of what to do:

AxIhD.png

Thanks :)


And should I cover up holes in my case?
 
Thanks GamerMagnet.

Also, trents is this a basic summary of what to do:

Yes, but also pay attention to what I shared with that guy about cleaning the surfaces with coffee filters and alcohol.

AxIhD.png

Thanks :)


And should I cover up holes in my case?

What holes?
 
In the other thread you wrote

Looks like it runs a couple of degrees cooler with the case open. I would take some cardboard and tape and cover up the hole where the side panel fan was so that the rear fan draws air from the front of the case. Having a hole in he side panel after removing the fan disrupts the strength of the air flow from front to back. You might also consider putting a stronger fan in the rear panel.

:)

Also, I moved my side panel fan down a bit and the CPU dropped by 5 degrees!
 
In the other thread you wrote
:)
Also, I moved my side panel fan down a bit and the CPU dropped by 5 degrees!

The problem with side-fans is that they can and often DO disrupt the air-flow thru the cpu cooler fans and make the cpu cooler less efficient than it could be without the side-fan air disruption.
 
Yeah, before It went from 35-37 idle and now its 29-31 idle. :)
 
Now run a 20 minute Prime95 stress test and check the max core temps.
 
Much better! And this is without the new cooler that you ordered, correct?
 
Well, you have some temp room to overclock now. Do you want to try it now or wait for the new cooler?
 
I think i'd prefer the new cooler to come first, thanks for your help
 
Installed the new cooler, It took a while and thermal grease got everywhere (oops) but i finally installed it. I'm now getting idle 28-29 and i'll run a Prime95 test soon
 
You type: > We have quite a bit of room to overclock now: > That maybe so with somewhat lower temps. Only the doing of the overclock will show how much is really doable.

Your Signatue says > AMD Athlon II x250 Regor [3Ghz Dual Core OC to 3.3] > So you have 'already' been overclocking and you should already know how to get that 300Mhz overclock. So DO it and let us see the captures of that speed as outlined below.

This is the what and how we need to see the captures since you will be FSB clocking which raises more than just the CPU speed, but the ram speed, the NB Speed and CPU/NB speed et al. You can post a capture of P95 running blend mode if you like but do not let it over-run or cover any of those other 4 captures we need fully visible.

These are the types of information that most users supply in order to be able to help them very much. Of course beginning with a setting that is 'known' to pass P95 Blend mode makes good sense, because a failed P95 Blend test is not going to give a baseline of a configuration that 'does' work.

CPU Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
attachment.php


Memory Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
attachment.php


SPD Tab in CPUz from CPUID com
attachment.php


And this is screen capture of HWMonitor (free version) from CPUID com
HWMonitor has been scrolled enough and large enough to show Min/Max of Voltages and includes the CPU CORE TEMPS fully visible.

This capture is made of HWMonitor after it has been open on the desktop logging Min/Max temps and voltages while Prime 95 was running Blend Mode test on all cores for at least 20 mins and then the capture of HWMonitor was made and it shows the Min/Max temps and voltages before P95 Blend was started and while running P95 Blend mode and gives much greater insight into how the system is performing without guessing.

attachment.php


In order to attach screenshots of images as suggested, first crop and capture the images with Snipping Tool found in Windows Accessories or equivalent. Then click on Go Advanced, a button at the bottom of every new post window. Then click on the little paperclip tool at the top of the Advanced post window when it opens. Clicking on the paperclip tool brings up the file browser/upload tool and the rest is fairly obvious.
 
I had it overclocked to 3.3GHz using a BIOS "10% Overclocking Profile" but it only allowed me to use one RAM Stick :\ So now i'm on stock clocks (3Ghz)

I will update my signature.

s5IFb.png
 
That does not look like stock clocks to me.

189x15 = 2841Mhz

and the ram running at only DDR800 when it is DDR1333 ram.

Sounds or appears as if you need to clear the CMOS so whatever you have 'been' adjusting goes back to default values and you can start from the real beginning.
 
Back