- Joined
- Aug 3, 2012
-12v rail:
Okay, this will be a bit random. The −12 V rail was used primarily to provide the negative supply voltage to the RS-232 serial ports. It is still there because there may be a need to plug in a pci to serial card and it would utilize the voltage. it is a holdover and I really don't think it plays a big factor in the overall operation of the board. I can't find anything more concrete on the -12v usage.
I'm just surmising, cuz I never broke down a PC PSU before, but It takes in AC power and it steps it down to 12 volts AC signal. That AC power has both a +12 and a -12 "side" to it (it shows up as a sine wave on an o-scope). They convert the AC to DC, giving them a + an - DC voltage to use.
okay voltage issues:
ATX 2.2 form factor tolerances for the different voltages:
Voltage Rail Tolerance
+5VDC ± 5 %
-5VDC (if used) ± 10 %
+12VDC ± 5 %
-12VDC ± 10 %
+3.3VDC ± 5 %
+5VSB ± 5 %
Block Mounting
Personally, I've seen a dozen or more different ways to apply thermal grease. One of the important things are to use one that conducts heat very well (the better the heat transfer, obviously, the better). Again, there are differing qualities and compounds. EVERYBODY has their preference. Some are "instant" some take hundreds of hours to "cure" or some need to "burn-in" (like use your computer only x hours per day, let it set and do this for 4 days). I like Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400. it is only 13 bucks and is immediate use and is rated pretty high among thermal grease. You make your choice. As far as how to apply it, I go for the "entire surface" method. Simply, I use a new, nylon bristle paint brush to spread a thin layer over the entire CPU lid.
Now, when you tighten down the block, don't do a post all the way at once. I tighten them till all are just snug. then, move around the block in an "X" pattern, tighten each post a bit then move to the one catty-corner, then back to the one next to the fist then the one catty-corner form that. an "X" pattern. Keep doing this until you cannot tighten them down any more. But, By God, if you have the strength of a gorilla, take it easy. I look at it as if I were tightening a screw into a metal frame. There is a point it just won't go further in without damaging the mounting point. In this case, too tight and you can damage CPU lid. Key is, it needs to be tight to ensure as much of the cooling surface of the block is in contact with the CPU. The grease is there to even out imperfections between the 2.
As far as I know adjusting the bus or the multiplier will raise the temp equally, after all, you are pushing the clocks to the same higher level and that's what heats it up. Here's the rub, you start messing with the FSB, you start messing with memory timing because they are connected. JUST STICK WITH THE MULTIPLIER, THEN VCORE AFTER THAT.
HEAT
I'm betting you have the 125 watt 8120. It is a scorcher. Mine is a 95 watt and it is warm with WC. OC'd to 4.2 with ONLY the multiplier and a bump to 1.3 vCore for stability, I run at 35c (12 c over ambient). Under load, I hit, Max 48 c (25 c over ambient). My cores are chilly, just 5-6 c over ambient. Before water it was much, much higher. Anything you change is going to raise the heat unless you underclock or undervolt. if you OC your video card, you raise ambient temps in the case, raising memory clocks and volts does the same. Adding HDD's, black lights other cards in pci slots, they all add to heat. I see you have your 2 vga's way OC'd...lotsa heat in that case. That all adds to the heat of all the components, including the CPU - it isn't immune to ambient case temps.
Hope this helps and I hope I didn't get anything wrong (wrong...not a difference of opinion).
Okay, this will be a bit random. The −12 V rail was used primarily to provide the negative supply voltage to the RS-232 serial ports. It is still there because there may be a need to plug in a pci to serial card and it would utilize the voltage. it is a holdover and I really don't think it plays a big factor in the overall operation of the board. I can't find anything more concrete on the -12v usage.
I'm just surmising, cuz I never broke down a PC PSU before, but It takes in AC power and it steps it down to 12 volts AC signal. That AC power has both a +12 and a -12 "side" to it (it shows up as a sine wave on an o-scope). They convert the AC to DC, giving them a + an - DC voltage to use.
okay voltage issues:
ATX 2.2 form factor tolerances for the different voltages:
Voltage Rail Tolerance
+5VDC ± 5 %
-5VDC (if used) ± 10 %
+12VDC ± 5 %
-12VDC ± 10 %
+3.3VDC ± 5 %
+5VSB ± 5 %
Block Mounting
Personally, I've seen a dozen or more different ways to apply thermal grease. One of the important things are to use one that conducts heat very well (the better the heat transfer, obviously, the better). Again, there are differing qualities and compounds. EVERYBODY has their preference. Some are "instant" some take hundreds of hours to "cure" or some need to "burn-in" (like use your computer only x hours per day, let it set and do this for 4 days). I like Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400. it is only 13 bucks and is immediate use and is rated pretty high among thermal grease. You make your choice. As far as how to apply it, I go for the "entire surface" method. Simply, I use a new, nylon bristle paint brush to spread a thin layer over the entire CPU lid.
Now, when you tighten down the block, don't do a post all the way at once. I tighten them till all are just snug. then, move around the block in an "X" pattern, tighten each post a bit then move to the one catty-corner, then back to the one next to the fist then the one catty-corner form that. an "X" pattern. Keep doing this until you cannot tighten them down any more. But, By God, if you have the strength of a gorilla, take it easy. I look at it as if I were tightening a screw into a metal frame. There is a point it just won't go further in without damaging the mounting point. In this case, too tight and you can damage CPU lid. Key is, it needs to be tight to ensure as much of the cooling surface of the block is in contact with the CPU. The grease is there to even out imperfections between the 2.
As far as I know adjusting the bus or the multiplier will raise the temp equally, after all, you are pushing the clocks to the same higher level and that's what heats it up. Here's the rub, you start messing with the FSB, you start messing with memory timing because they are connected. JUST STICK WITH THE MULTIPLIER, THEN VCORE AFTER THAT.
HEAT
I'm betting you have the 125 watt 8120. It is a scorcher. Mine is a 95 watt and it is warm with WC. OC'd to 4.2 with ONLY the multiplier and a bump to 1.3 vCore for stability, I run at 35c (12 c over ambient). Under load, I hit, Max 48 c (25 c over ambient). My cores are chilly, just 5-6 c over ambient. Before water it was much, much higher. Anything you change is going to raise the heat unless you underclock or undervolt. if you OC your video card, you raise ambient temps in the case, raising memory clocks and volts does the same. Adding HDD's, black lights other cards in pci slots, they all add to heat. I see you have your 2 vga's way OC'd...lotsa heat in that case. That all adds to the heat of all the components, including the CPU - it isn't immune to ambient case temps.
Hope this helps and I hope I didn't get anything wrong (wrong...not a difference of opinion).
