- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Location
- Regina, Saskatchewan
crull I think voodoomelon is right in think that each machine is diferent but also each location is different and remeber that humidity plays a hugh role in how much heat the air can absorb.
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Everyone on this forum should make a duct, 10*C - 12*C drop!!!
- Thread starter voodoomelon
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2003
- Location
- Houston, Texas
I'm making an assumption here, and i'm pretty sure i got the general idea, but someone please correct me if i'm wrong.
The main goal here by making a "duct" is to eliminate the "dead spot" the center of fans create when placed on a heatsink. Thus by eliminating the dead spot, not only do you have better colling but its also on the main area which matters most! the core/center/area where the dead spot just so happens to be.
Now i'm trying to do something like this but unfortunately i'm somewhat of a perfectionist, i know i hate being one too but its in my nature. Would someone explain to me how these ideas would perform in the general aspect of eliminating the dead spot and achieving better temps. Also, which would be better overall?
1. the small duct:
I know this could be left "as is" but some people might actually put a "tunnel" on it that goes to the outside of the case or is flush with the case and is still bringing outside air in...I would assume outside air is better since its not the case air.
2. the fan shroud:
watercoolers know what this is for hehe, but this pic is a 80mm fanshroud, anyone ever seen one that would fit a 92mm fan toa slk900 or a sp-94? unlikely but i might as well as anyhow.
3. the adapter/mini duct/shroud:
ok i know this isnt really a shroud or a duct but it does have a small space inbetween the two which "might" distribute enough air to eliminate the dead spot. I honestly dont know but there thought is there lingering in my mind.
Personally, i think the fanshroud idea is best which has the same idea as all of these but it maximizes the distribution of air especially when it is completely sealed onto the heatsink. Now given that if anyone has ever done that i bet they got themselves a nice little mod there
Edit: i just came to my senses after going back over my post and realised that the fanshroud and the small duct ideas are the same thing with a little bit of a distance difference, now to come and think about it; since finding a fanshroud made for a heatsink is next to impossible, does anyone know where to find a 92mm small duct? lol
The main goal here by making a "duct" is to eliminate the "dead spot" the center of fans create when placed on a heatsink. Thus by eliminating the dead spot, not only do you have better colling but its also on the main area which matters most! the core/center/area where the dead spot just so happens to be.
Now i'm trying to do something like this but unfortunately i'm somewhat of a perfectionist, i know i hate being one too but its in my nature. Would someone explain to me how these ideas would perform in the general aspect of eliminating the dead spot and achieving better temps. Also, which would be better overall?
1. the small duct:
I know this could be left "as is" but some people might actually put a "tunnel" on it that goes to the outside of the case or is flush with the case and is still bringing outside air in...I would assume outside air is better since its not the case air.
2. the fan shroud:
watercoolers know what this is for hehe, but this pic is a 80mm fanshroud, anyone ever seen one that would fit a 92mm fan toa slk900 or a sp-94? unlikely but i might as well as anyhow.
3. the adapter/mini duct/shroud:
ok i know this isnt really a shroud or a duct but it does have a small space inbetween the two which "might" distribute enough air to eliminate the dead spot. I honestly dont know but there thought is there lingering in my mind.
Personally, i think the fanshroud idea is best which has the same idea as all of these but it maximizes the distribution of air especially when it is completely sealed onto the heatsink. Now given that if anyone has ever done that i bet they got themselves a nice little mod there
Edit: i just came to my senses after going back over my post and realised that the fanshroud and the small duct ideas are the same thing with a little bit of a distance difference, now to come and think about it; since finding a fanshroud made for a heatsink is next to impossible, does anyone know where to find a 92mm small duct? lol
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2002
voodoomelon said:Hey.
Ok, things are a little heated up at the moment in this room, I haven't had the window open, and there has been 3 people in the 14' X 9' room for the last 2 hours.
Ambient room temp : 20.8*C
BIOS CPU temp: 30*C
Case temp 23.9*C
CPU Torando: 2556rpm
2x 80mm intakes
2x 80mm exhausts
1x 80mm intake blowhole over Radeon
1x 80mm exhaust top of case
My room temp is usually ranging from a chilly 15*C to a warmer 20*C, on average about 18*C i'd say.
When the room is 18*C:
BIOS CPU temp: ~ 28*C
Case temp: ~ 22*C
Crull,
Can't say I agree with that, as you can see above. I'm sure there's probably plenty of people with CPU temps lower than 10*C over ambient. I don't doubt for a second that you've done extensive testing, however have you done it on more than one machine in different locations?
The temperature outside me right now is easily -2*C. Does this count as a sort of ambient temp for this room? The insulation in this house leaves alot to be desired, hence my usual low temp of 14*C when I wake up. Also, opening my window every half hour or so when it heats up leads to a difference in air pressure. That would also affect my case temps.
I don't know what else I can say to convince you crull.
"them's my temps an' i'm stickin by 'em"
I'm just trying to highlight the differences between our setups.
The best place to get ambient temp would be right at the intake fan on the front of your system. If you don't a fan in the front. Then ambient temp would the temp outside the case, but close to the case. I'm using an external thermometer that has inside and outside temp. It is attached to the front of my case and reads the ambient temp, with another probe that is inside the case for case temp. Ambient temp is the temp the case is sitting in. Outside temp has no bearing on it, unless your ducting cool air into the case from outside.
Try checking out this review of the SLK 13.1C above ambient
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1280&page=5
Which seems to be about right with the tests I have run.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Houston
all i did was i made a duct out of a gutted 80mm fan and put my sfI on top of it (look in sig)....i only saw like a 1c difference
this duct hasnt helped much at all
this duct hasnt helped much at all
dalilman52-
the reason it didn't help too much is because the 92mm fan over hangs the heatink with a lot of the airflow going down the sides of the heatsink instead of through it. That's why we made the ducts, to funnel all of the air through the sink.
the reason it didn't help too much is because the 92mm fan over hangs the heatink with a lot of the airflow going down the sides of the heatsink instead of through it. That's why we made the ducts, to funnel all of the air through the sink.
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Houston
no, i tried it with a 80mm sfI on full speed, and it did almost nothing
I'm sure that the 80mm fan is still wider than the SLK-900a width - I measured mine at 52 mm I think. So unless you tape or seal that 80mm fan frame to the sides of the SLK you're still going to have some spillage.
I'm planning on removing my 92mm Panaflow (leaving the duct on the SLK ) and running a duct from the fan duct to the botton of my Antec case door. I'm going to attach the ducting to a 80mm Tornado and put a washable dust filter on the side door exterior. these SLKs clog so easily with dust!
Did you blow your SLK out with compressed air? Mine was clogging up after only 30 days and I don't live in a very dusty enviroment.
I'm planning on removing my 92mm Panaflow (leaving the duct on the SLK ) and running a duct from the fan duct to the botton of my Antec case door. I'm going to attach the ducting to a 80mm Tornado and put a washable dust filter on the side door exterior. these SLKs clog so easily with dust!
Did you blow your SLK out with compressed air? Mine was clogging up after only 30 days and I don't live in a very dusty enviroment.
I got a PM from a fellow Member who wanted me to make him a duct- I can't but I did send hime these instructions-
It's not hard to make-
buy a peice of plexiglass from home depot (not the thinnest plexi, one thickness up), some plastic glue, and a utility knife. The plastic glue comes with a little bottle of plastic cleaner. You can get all of this at Home Depot for about $10.00.
Measure the length and wiidth of the sp94 and then -
The overall size of this duct will be the same size as the fan you are using and the same height as well (so you can attach the fan with the cut wire holddowns like Voodoomelon did)- I just taped mine to the sides of the HS with aluminum tape.
You may have to make a few trys at the sizing- the 2 vertical sides will be exactly as wide as your fan and the 2 slanted pieces will be a little shorter ( so that when your glue the slanted pieces to the vertical pieces the overall width will be the same width as your fan)
Cut the pieces with the utility knife, scoring the plexi repeatedly along a metal ruler or straitedge. After 10 passes or so, you can flip the plexi and snap the pieces off. Then all you have to do is mark and score these pieces to the right length.
Glue the peices up on a flat surface using a small box to lean the vertical peice against, then glue the slanted peice to the vertical. Get another small box to lean the other vertical piece against and glue that to the other side of the slanted piece. Then glue up the last slanted piece bye putting it between the two vertical peices and let it dry. After it dried, I applied more glue to the joints for strength.
You can do this!
It's not hard to make-
buy a peice of plexiglass from home depot (not the thinnest plexi, one thickness up), some plastic glue, and a utility knife. The plastic glue comes with a little bottle of plastic cleaner. You can get all of this at Home Depot for about $10.00.
Measure the length and wiidth of the sp94 and then -
The overall size of this duct will be the same size as the fan you are using and the same height as well (so you can attach the fan with the cut wire holddowns like Voodoomelon did)- I just taped mine to the sides of the HS with aluminum tape.
You may have to make a few trys at the sizing- the 2 vertical sides will be exactly as wide as your fan and the 2 slanted pieces will be a little shorter ( so that when your glue the slanted pieces to the vertical pieces the overall width will be the same width as your fan)
Cut the pieces with the utility knife, scoring the plexi repeatedly along a metal ruler or straitedge. After 10 passes or so, you can flip the plexi and snap the pieces off. Then all you have to do is mark and score these pieces to the right length.
Glue the peices up on a flat surface using a small box to lean the vertical peice against, then glue the slanted peice to the vertical. Get another small box to lean the other vertical piece against and glue that to the other side of the slanted piece. Then glue up the last slanted piece bye putting it between the two vertical peices and let it dry. After it dried, I applied more glue to the joints for strength.
You can do this!
OP
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2001
- Location
- Dundalk, Ireland
- Thread Starter
- #94
itshondo,
Your duct is a lot nicer than mine, the edges are so much smoother. I cut my perspex with a jigsaw, and the blade gets so hot literally after 2 seconds, it melts the edge of the perspex as it cuts it, resealing the line it just cut. I then snapped it off along the resealed line, but it comes off with melted and iregular shaped edges.
Nice job.
Your duct is a lot nicer than mine, the edges are so much smoother. I cut my perspex with a jigsaw, and the blade gets so hot literally after 2 seconds, it melts the edge of the perspex as it cuts it, resealing the line it just cut. I then snapped it off along the resealed line, but it comes off with melted and iregular shaped edges.
Nice job.
OP
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2001
- Location
- Dundalk, Ireland
- Thread Starter
- #95
Nearly forgot,
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Houston
itshondo said:
DAHHHH!! i just came home from the depot just a few minutes ago!!! btw, what section is the plexiglass in? ive never seen it at lowe's or home depot...and im not too sure ill be able to fabricate something of that complexity....too much measuring for me
but ill give it a shot next time i go, and another thing, would using my enermax 92mm adjustable with a duct help any? its such a low cfm and pressure fan...- Joined
- Jan 14, 2003
- Location
- Parma, OH
I'm working on a duct now. I'm using 1/8" plastic. My ultimate goal is to eliminate the tornado and use a panaflo 92 medium speed. I'll post the results.
the plexiglas at my local Home Depot was in the Window & Door section- Millworks- just ask someone there where it is.-
I,m using a 56 cfm 92mm Panaflow and it works nicely with the duct. I am going to istall a 80mm 85 cfm Tornado in my case door and duct it directly to the duct with 3" automotive duct.
I,m using a 56 cfm 92mm Panaflow and it works nicely with the duct. I am going to istall a 80mm 85 cfm Tornado in my case door and duct it directly to the duct with 3" automotive duct.
