• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Fan Controller for radiator

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
If you got massive amounts of heat to remove and can't fit a 120x4 low FPI rad and can handle the noise, the BIX is very very the best choice.

100 CFM fans are LOTS louder than the GTs. Even without a rad.

I'm listening to quiet Guitar solos now on internet radio, wife is asleep in the next room. I can hear my PC, mainly my friggin PSU fan, but a very low DB. My rad fans are at half speed, I never have to turn them up from where they are now even gaming.

Dude, it's all about your heat load. If a 120x3 low FPI rad and quiet fans keeps the temps in the 60's (I load in the low 50's) why the hell would you choose anything else?

It's quality of life issues dude. I don't get it. Try driving your car for a month with no muffler. It will get old fast...........

If your after max overclocks and love benching, then even a BIX won't be enough. Whats your PC usage? Gaming/music forums? Or MAX powa and numbers?
 
Thanks. You have talked me out of my insane 38mm fans and I'll just stick with the yate loons. I will, however, use 3 fans push/pull just because I have already made my radiator brackets. I simply want a medium overclock of my i7 920 and, after looking around, even a 4.0GHz OC of my 920 will only produce 270W heat. I think 6 yate loons on a RX360 will handle that. I won't be OCing my 5870 at all so I definitely won't need the 38mm fans on the RX360 in that loop.

PS. My family builds custom cars and I have driven some of them with open headers, horrendous at best!
 
How loud do you think the San Ace's and Ultra Kaze fans are while being underpowered? That is, essentially, what a fan controller does, correct?
 
i have the ultra kaze 3000rpm fans hooked upto my fan controller, and they will spin right down to 300rpm, at which point, my power supply makes more noise than they do.
 
GMdoubleG said:
What kind of fan controller are you using? Does it say on it how fast the fan is spinning?
Click to expand...

im, using the sunbeam rheobus extreme, and no, it comes with a couple wires to plug the sensor wire into a motherboard header, and im viewing the fan speed via those.
 
tomasgi said:
Couldn't you use this to connect all the fans and then connect the port to a normal 4 channel fan control:eh?:?
Click to expand...
I would imagine not as all that power still has to go to the fan controller which is limited in wattage. not to mention how you would connect it to the controller.....
 
Conun: I like that fan controller a lot and, at 30W per channel (2.5A), it could handle 6 yate loons mediums in parallel. I believe that all the fans would need to be the same in order to read the fan rpm correctly.

Tomasgi: I'm not sure if you can use that as a relay since it hooks up 12 fans but gives them different volts (4 fans at 12v, 4 at 7v, 4 at 5v).
 
Never hurts to ask! But yeah that and the step down in voltages means its already regulated... ;)
 
GMdoubleG said:
Conun: I like that fan controller a lot and, at 30W per channel (2.5A), it could handle 6 yate loons mediums in parallel. I believe that all the fans would need to be the same in order to read the fan rpm correctly.

Tomasgi: I'm not sure if you can use that as a relay since it hooks up 12 fans but gives them different volts (4 fans at 12v, 4 at 7v, 4 at 5v).
Click to expand...

If you splice fans into a single channel it will not give an accurate fan RPM in my experience. Not like it matters with my rheobus anyway, but I did try it with a Scythe Kamameter with no luck.
I've since started capping off the yelow wire at the fan body instead of carrying it all the way to the controller.
 
Because I don't need it. It's just the RPM lead. If I'm daisy chaining fans onto a Rad, I just chop the yellow wire right away so I don't have to screw with it, and splice the Red and Black wires to the controller or a 4 Pin Molex to run right off the power supply.
If I'm running 1 fan per channel like I am right now with these Denki's, then I'll just splice all three wires because it's easy.
It's just that in my experience in trying to monitor fan speed of multiple fans spliced into the same line, it just didn't work. So now I don't even bother with it.
If I want to know if a fan is running at its full rated speed, I'll just quickly splice on a 4 pin molex and hook it directly into my PSU, and hook another of the same model into my controller at full blast. If they sound the same then you can be pretty sure that your controller is running your fan at or very close to max rated RPM. That's all I really need to know, and really have no need for an RPM monitor or an RPM lead.
Typically however, a fan controller will run slightly less than 12v at max. According to my multimeter, mine puts out 11.3v at max setting.

Below is a picture of the first time I spliced fans into the same plug.

img0794tb8.jpg


I made sure to include the yellow lead all the way through and wired into a 3pin fan connector to be controlled and monitored by my Digital fan controller. It read a single fan no problem, but was very unstable and read erroneous values when I plugged the spliced line in. I decided just to cut that 3pin off and replace it with a 4pin molex adapter and run right off my PSU like so:

img0805ad5.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

tacitus
Building a silent rack-mounted workstation with the Silverstone RM51
Replies
4
Views
2K
Zerileous
Zerileous
S
Rebuild / upgrade looking for fine tuning advice
Replies
0
Views
709
Savlaka
S
Max0r
PWM control for some medium/high powered Delta fans, worth it over undervolting?
2 3
Replies
49
Views
4K
Voodoo Rufus
Voodoo Rufus
J
Need an education on radiator, fan, pump pairing
Replies
11
Views
724
JustJeff
J
BugFreak
Dual system, single loop build log
Replies
9
Views
2K
BugFreak
BugFreak
Back