help, horrible temps!!!!

[pwnt by pat]

I unplugged everything!

*sigh*

Socket temp, right? Don't trust that at all as it changes from bios to bios as well as cooling to cooling. It could be reporting more than 10c over. If your cpu is chipped and it boots, then it should be fine. If it's not booting/posting then it's dead.

 

[whoever]

well sometimes it posts. I don't know what the problem is, It could very well be psu. Lets think, the gpu is fine, atleast eh TNT2. The ram is fine. So the only thing I am unsure of is the psu and the cpu, and sicne its probalby not hte cpu and I need to upgrade anyways; then I should probably buy a cheaper psu. I am using a True blue 480W right now. Also can a post card tell me that the psu is shorting out? Also I will unmount the mobo to check to see if its shorting but I seriously doubt it.


But first clarify something with me. First I say that I have 38 Idle, which is a high temp. and then it goes up to 50C, now weather or not the mobo is reading higher than it should, it shouldn't move from 38 to 50. Also, what could casue the system to shut off after running for about 1 1/2 minutes. Please elaberate. Im frusturated. I would really like to get up and running. I really didn't plan to have 3 weeks of down time.

 

[pwnt by pat]

FUDGE!! (g-rated) I just spent a half of an hour typing up something and it all vanashed 'cause my laptop doesn't like using an external keyboard at all.

All I can say now is keep testing stuff one at a time. Check your psu and empty motherboard voltages (empty as in no cpu). Take your time and slowly check parts one by one.

Also, check your pump. Open it up and see if anything happened to the inside. Your VIA might possibly be shot. These pumps are definately known to be unreliable - even brand new.

Bios very well may have influenced the change in temeperatures. The old bios may have reported under while this one reports over. You never know with in socket temp sensors.

The problems are sounding more and more to be psu related.

 

[whoever]

that sounds good. Really good. Thans I thingk i may buy this buy zalman its supposed to be quite. It very well may be psu, and I'll bet your right, i sure did have a lot of splices in the wires.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=17-103-212&DEPA=0

 

[whoever]

okay I bought the psu hope its a good one!

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-159-022&depa=0

 

[pwnt by pat]

Output: +3.3V@28A, +5V@35A, [email protected], +12V@15A, [email protected], [email protected]
Efficiency: >65% at full load

The 12v line is really REALLY lacking in amps but for $35, it seems decent. The efficiency could be a little tighter but for that price rance, it's expected. Too bad yourr psu budget isn't twice that as that could get you a forton 530...

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-104-968&depa=0
Now that's a powersupply [within a budget - we all know PCP&C are beasts].

 

[whoever]

well you were dead on! So I ordered the new psu, and when I went home I opened up the old one, an Antec 480W true blue. And the grounding nut that holds the cable down was totally half way up the bolt so I tightend it down and everything works! Whoo hoo! So the new psu should come today and I will return it and then replace the gpu that I broke.

What other good news? Got windoze running. Called M$ and re-activated windows (to many hardware changes) and they gave me a new code, took 5 minutes, people get too passonite about the activations, its easy!

The temps were all fixed! I don't think its that the probe reads 10C higher. I think that its that the WC system can deal with a lot of heat past a certain point. So what I think happens is the water block can only abosrb say 50% of the heat at idle hence 38C temp, but then at load with 2V running through a tried AMD at load its only 49C, wheres as in air it was 32 idle with a 48C load. So I think that the properties of WC are simply diffrent and its going to close the gap between idle and load.

Overall, I didn't hit 2500mhz like I wanted to. But hell im on an Unlocked 2000+. I hit 1900mhz on air (extreme air at 70dbs!), 200X9.5 @1.85V. On water im at 200X10 @2V and about 30dbs. I will probably be able to hit 2100mhz (10.5X) with some fine tuning. and maybe 2200mhz once the system is 100% air free and the as5 seats.

Thanks for your on top of it responses. And all you help ocforums.com truly is great!

 

[pwnt by pat]

Glad we got you all straightened out. Something I didn't notice earlier: 200X9.5 @1.85V vs 200X10 @2V. This is actually where your temperature problem lies. It's not the fact that your system sucks, it's that you are compairing 1.85 on air to 2.0 on water. A low 30's will RARELY happen on water with 2.0v. Oh, and is your core a rev a or b? That will make a major difference and is probably the reason you can't go any higher.

 

[whoever]

i think im on a tbird, and the funny thing is, stock I got 38C that 1.6v and and and at 2v I get 39C idle, its pretty much the same. Problem is my processor crashes at 50C was that way on air too.

But yeah thank a lot! The system is stable, and incase your woundering I coudl probalby run it on high 1.9Vs but the abit board jumps from 1.95 to 2V so thats why. Anyways I will be buying a 2600M with the good stepping soon.


Thanks for all you quality help and patience!

 

[pwnt by pat]

Tbird? Hmm. Tbred for 2000, but what revision: a or b? A's had hard times breaking 2ghz while b's could go as high as you could feed 'em voltage and keep the temp down. I just want to clear one thing up real quick: it's not idle temps that matter, it's load. Plus, excaliberpc.com for the mobile 2600. Get the mpmw. Mine is doing 215x11 @1.7 (~1.68 actual) with an aluminum heatsink that only begins to warm up under stress.

 

[whoever]

whats the mpmw? I know they have the two diff steppings, IQ . . and the AQ. . .


I don't know what rev it is. All I know is I got it in the spring of 02 from CompUSA, bought the first one retail with a warranty (that was before the days of online Forums and over clocking for me) and when I burned it I got a new one in spring 02.

I have no idea about the rev though, Its brown and it unlocked with the pencil tric if that helps. the origianl was green. I thought that it was a barton core, but I unlocked it so i guess not!

Anyways, If I can pull 2V with this old 2000+ how far do you think I could push a good 2600? Im hoping 3ghz!


btw if it makes any diff I was able to achieve 1.9ghz on extremem air, but I think you might be right, I'll be I have an A, cause even though I was only at 48C on air, I wasn't abe to hit 2000mhz on anything, and recently I have, so it sounds like Im on a A chip. Also I had to give the chipset and extra .1V of juice, I guess 400mhz fsb is a litle high for that old chip and that ceared up my stability issues, I'll back it down thought the make sure, it would suck If I burned my board!

 

[pwnt by pat]

For the 2600's, don't concider any stepping except the IQY,, stepping. The MPMW is the other stepping. Hitting 3ghz with a mobile isn't out of the question but it'll take extreme cooling like waterchilling or phase change. Get a new mobo before you get a new cpu. It will help more I think.

 

[whoever]

well what could I hit on water? People are pulling 2.5ghz with out to much trouble on the 2500s even, and even more commonly on the 2600s, so being on water, doesn't that sound reasonable?

 

[pwnt by pat]

For the IQYHA MPMW chips, 2.5-2.6+ on air isn't unheard of but that's with 1.85+ voltage usually. These chips have a very high diminish return on voltage, watercooling on them tends to be about 2v. Depending on how well your other componants can hold up, you should be able to expect 2.7-2.85 on water with 2.0+v. That is just a guestimate, remember. You might get a bunk chip.

 

[whoever]

awsome, so lets say I wanted to drop my temps a bit what would be the best way, I know I should jsut start a new thread but I'll ask anyways. Keep in mind of what I have

Via aqua 1300
Swifty MCW 6002A (1/2 barbs)
pro core
Rad
Generic fan
DD maze 4


what would cool the system best? A new pump? Of r a secound rad?

also, how important are fans on the radiator? For instance, if I cut the air flow in say half, how much will this effect my temps, cuase my rad doesn't even feel hot right now.

 

[pwnt by pat]

Initally, I would say the pump only 'cause I don't like my Via - leaked without being touched and then the housing broke off really REALLY easy. But, a new pump won't really net you too of a much performance increase unless you get another 1300 and run them in series. In fact, that's not too bad an idea and for $20, you'll like your temps a lot better. Is your rad a procore or a jr-120 core? If it's the later, upgrade it. If not, it's fine - but bigger is better and for another $20, you can get a caprice or 2-343 core. Oh and you could trade your 6002a for my ww... if you wanted. I don't know if you would see an increase but you'd have a ww..heh.

Airflow and pressure across a rad have a large affect on the temperature of the system. More is better, in general. However, more also equates to louder. If you want to cut back on noise, get a second fan and shroud and set up push-pull and 7v or 5v mod the fans. Pushpull on 12v makes an ignorable difference however, when fan speed and pressure drops (pressure drops exponentally with voltage decrease), push-pull makes a noticable difference. A member here has notices a 2-3c gain with push-pull over a single pull while going from a loud woosh to an almost unnoticable breeze. I don't remember who it was though - it was recent.

Oh, and this was assumed but if you don't have a shroud, get one now and run a single-pull setup.

 

[whoever]

okay so you push the air through 5V and then pull it 7V. Cool, I have a fan controller, thingy. It seems that I can turn the fans all the way down unless im loading the cpu. So thats cool, I will probalby buy anather fan since I have to by more CCs form directron anyways (cracked em all when leak testing)

thats a good idea!.

I may look into a secound via, now would that be like

via 1>rad>via 2>water block>gpu block>

or

Via 1> Via 2> Rad > Water block > Gpu block >

Thanks a lot! You've been a great help. Im having trouble with my bios now, but the WC setup is good!

 

[pwnt by pat]

You're welcome. It doesn't matter where in the system you have the second pump but it's easier to prime by having both right after your fill spot, be it rad or tee. For pushpull, run both at either 5v or 7v. 5v will be silent but will take a bigger hit in temps. 7v will be fairly quiet and not-so-bad on temps, and 12v is loudest but best performance. But yeah, don't push on 5 and pull on 7, push/pull on the same thing.

 

[whoever]

gotcha.