My DIY Liquid Cooling System

[Owenator]

I understand the quiet aspect but the OP watercooled his 9600 because of two reasons. One was because he OC'd for MORE PERFORMANCE, and second, he thought he needed to keep the temps as low as possible so he increased the fanspeed to 100% which made it loud. Clearly the OP is looking for more performance from his system. Do you not agree that increasing the speed of his CPU will give him more bang than increasing the GPU? Now that the OP knows that GPU's can run at 70C+ for years without a problem, he can turn his fanspeed down to a more bareable noise level and get the most from his CPU.

It's easy to assume someone wants one thing. I was looking at his posts and trying to figure out what he's after. More performance is clearly his objective, with silence along with it. That would make Thors comments clearly relevant. We also have to assume that the OP is not as tech savy as many of us unless he shows it in his posts.

Axis

You make a good point (If I understood what you are saying.) . If one is more tollerant of a hotter GPU, then one can slow the GPU fan to get quiet and then focus on CPU cololing. I didn't make that connection.

So this means that in the future all the OP would need is get a CPU block to water cool it. Then put the GPU air cooler back on the video card and run it at a slower speed for quiet but hotter. Then overclock the CPU to get a performance increase. Is that what you'd propose? It's an nteresting idea.

 

[pdxer1]

About the CPU cooling.

What is the difference between a split from the rad to each water block, to running a loop from one block to another until all blocks are connected?

I have an idea, but I want to read what more experienced enthusiast have concluded!

 

[Spawn-Inc]

split flows are bad as the block with the most resistance will get the least amount of flow. water, like electricity, wants to take the path of least resistance. so you will get poor cooling on some blocks and good cooling on others.


the temperature within the loop at any one point, once it has reached equilibrium (time depends on amount of water within the loop, but normally 15 minutes or so), will be about 1-1.5C in difference. so it doesn't matter what order you put your blocks in.

as a result series works much better over parallel. the only time i would put anything in parallel would be the new swiftech stackable rads where you can be sure there is equal amounts of tubing and resistance.

 

[pdxer1]

That's pretty much my thought. Other than looking into blocks with rated flow rates-do they have those specs- I could get a water block with a top half, rip it apart and put the inside of the top half under the 3-point drill press.
I was looking at Danger Den's Quadcore CPU block, looks like it has a high flow rate. Will mount to my mainboard and cool better than their C2D block. This way if I ever do get a Quadcore for this MB it will have the water block necessary.
My pump outputs 900L/ph~15L/pm, it's not the strongest pump so a block to block loop would be more ideal!
Thanks for the info!

I'm going to turn my comp off now and go lap my sink and proc. Got 1500 to finish!

 

[pdxer1]

Here's a thought!

How does one go about cooling the reservoir without adding fans or refrigerant compressor?

 

[Spawn-Inc]

you don't get the proper amount of rad and your fine

if you want cooler temps dunk your rad (no fans...) in a bucket of ice water. and don't forget to watch for condensation.

 

[Bobnova]

No real reason to cool the reservoir when the radiators are far more efficient cooling wise.
You could, i suppose, use a radiator as a res like cars do, but you'd need one that has top to bottom flow instead of U shaped flow.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

No real reason to cool the reservoir when the radiators are far more efficient cooling wise.
You could, i suppose, use a radiator as a res like cars do, but you'd need one that has top to bottom flow instead of U shaped flow.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR220-QP-Res-pr-3975.html?

 

[Bobnova]

Or that, heh.

 

[pdxer1]

Guess I found A answer!

Couple this to a 1x120mm rad.

My case already has one 170mm rad, add a 2nd 1x120mm rad to the back would be idea for using less space.
Having a push-pull fan system on the 120mm rad coupled with a reservoir on the outside 120mm fan,
blowing on the reservoir, would effectively 'help' cool the reservoir.

I know this goes against using fans.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

no, that won't cool it at all (well yes, but nothing significant enough to drop your temps) for several reasons.

1. it's plastic, an insulator, not conductor of heat.
2. it's round so air will flow by it with ease.
3. your blowing hot air at it (assuming you have the fan that way.)



to get any kind of cooling out of a res, you need one made of copper (ideally) with fins both on the outside and inside for alot better heat transfer. and it would have to be a decent size to do anything. they make aluminum ones but well thats useless.

 

[pdxer1]

no, that won't cool it at all...

I have a copper container that is slightly bigger than that in the pic. What if I dimpled it like a golf ball and came up with a metal mounting bracket that also acted like ducting/shroud?

Just so you know what's up. I'm not thinking of changing out res this case. I already have a reservoir for my main rig. I have a box I'm working on that will have enough room on it for a 120mm rad with copper res mounted on it, or on the back between an 80mm and a 120mm, partially encased by the shroud i could make for it!