- Joined
- Sep 14, 2004
- Location
- Land of the What?
i like the way your whole project lights up, looks great!
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My mod job (lots-o-pics)
- Thread starter gvblake22
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2004
- Location
- A state full of alcoholics.
Okay, here we go. Bit longer than an hour, sorry; I just moved, and couldn't find a freaking screwdriver.
1. Take both sides off.
2. Remove the two screws located at the top of the case, just behind the front panel, one on each side, just above the tabs that hold the front on.
3. I had to remove my 5.25" drives, as their faceplates were trapping the front - you might, might not have to. Might need to remove the floppy drive as well.
4. Tilt the entire case back 90° (so the power supply is touching the ground) and pop the tabs that hold the front cover on, starting with the two close to the bottom of the case. Pull the case front down and forward (this is why you had to tip it), rotating around the point where the face and top join. You should be able to do this without forcing it. Your case front is now free. Rotate the box back to its standard operating position.
5. Remove the screws holding the top on - 2 large ones on the back of the case, one smaller on the side where your window sits, three small on the mobo backplate side. Then, there are two small ones under the overhanging bit on the front, which were covered by the front - remove these, also.
6. There are two screws located on the underside of the case top - remove them. The bottom half of the two top pieces (the metal one, not the plastic) can now slide forward against the top half (the plastic one), and then be seperated. The holes that the slider-tabs sit in might also have your motherboard-to-casefront wires running through them, so don't rush it and sever them.
7. You might need to remove the screws holding the v-shaped vent plate in place before sliding the top two pieces free, I don't recall. If you didn't need to, they need to come off now.
Be careful with your case when it has the top removed. As you've likely noticed, it isn't made of the best grade of steel, and the top is the only thing that holds the front and back halves together, at the top - no PSU guiderails here.
All yours.
~N.
1. Take both sides off.
2. Remove the two screws located at the top of the case, just behind the front panel, one on each side, just above the tabs that hold the front on.
3. I had to remove my 5.25" drives, as their faceplates were trapping the front - you might, might not have to. Might need to remove the floppy drive as well.
4. Tilt the entire case back 90° (so the power supply is touching the ground) and pop the tabs that hold the front cover on, starting with the two close to the bottom of the case. Pull the case front down and forward (this is why you had to tip it), rotating around the point where the face and top join. You should be able to do this without forcing it. Your case front is now free. Rotate the box back to its standard operating position.
5. Remove the screws holding the top on - 2 large ones on the back of the case, one smaller on the side where your window sits, three small on the mobo backplate side. Then, there are two small ones under the overhanging bit on the front, which were covered by the front - remove these, also.
6. There are two screws located on the underside of the case top - remove them. The bottom half of the two top pieces (the metal one, not the plastic) can now slide forward against the top half (the plastic one), and then be seperated. The holes that the slider-tabs sit in might also have your motherboard-to-casefront wires running through them, so don't rush it and sever them.
7. You might need to remove the screws holding the v-shaped vent plate in place before sliding the top two pieces free, I don't recall. If you didn't need to, they need to come off now.
Be careful with your case when it has the top removed. As you've likely noticed, it isn't made of the best grade of steel, and the top is the only thing that holds the front and back halves together, at the top - no PSU guiderails here.
All yours.
~N.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2003
- Location
- MG,Brazil
I like the drive bay front intake Idea.Must be great for case temps
I will one day get around to doing that on mine.
I will one day get around to doing that on mine.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2003
- Location
- Tempe Desert
- Thread Starter
- #26
Haha, yeah, it is. My Antec PSU has a 4-pin molex connection on the back of it (where the on/off switch is) so thats where I plugged in one of my little UV CC lights so it wouldn't clutter the inside of the already tight caseZiggey said:
And to you Narcissus, WOW!!! Those are some impressive steps to gettin' this thing apart. I'll print 'em out and arm myself with a screw driver and A LOT of time and see what I can accomplish! THANKS
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2004
- Location
- Bedford, Texas
the only thing i see is in pic 28 everything looks really dusty. maybe it is just me
but besides that (oh yeah and the whole amd thing)it is looking pretty sweet
but besides that (oh yeah and the whole amd thing
)it is looking pretty sweet - Joined
- Sep 2, 2004
- Location
- Rocky Mtn. High
Sweet job! I really like the unique window design.
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2004
Sorry to go a bit off topic, but would you happen to know the manufacturer of that case? It looks very similar to the 'free after rebates' case currently making the rounds from Soyo, with cheesy but usable matching keyboard, mouse, and speakers all emblazoned with the soyo logo.
If that information appears in this thread and I missed it, feel free the smack me...
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=506067&sku=S450-4010 for those that want to know.
The rebates seem to be going in and out in a cycling pattern, so keep an eye out and they'll be back up. Also the case is slightly different, and is actually This case.
If that information appears in this thread and I missed it, feel free the smack me...
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=506067&sku=S450-4010 for those that want to know.
The rebates seem to be going in and out in a cycling pattern, so keep an eye out and they'll be back up. Also the case is slightly different, and is actually This case.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- Location
- Knoxville, TN
Looks great. I like the RAM sinks on the 9800 alot. Kinda reminds me of mine
OP
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2003
- Location
- Tempe Desert
- Thread Starter
- #31
In my first post and then agian a few posts later I put a link to the original case. It is acually made by "Codegen".someoneElse said:Sorry to go a bit off topic, but would you happen to know the manufacturer of that case? It looks very similar to the 'free after rebates' case currently making the rounds from Soyo, with cheesy but usable matching keyboard, mouse, and speakers all emblazoned with the soyo logo.
If that information appears in this thread and I missed it, feel free the smack me...
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=506067&sku=S450-4010 for those that want to know.
The rebates seem to be going in and out in a cycling pattern, so keep an eye out and they'll be back up. Also the case is slightly different, and is actually This case.
- Joined
- May 6, 2004
- Location
- I live by a Delta
For your first time out of the gate. I think you did a great job. I would make a few comments but most people already have besides you are your own worst critic. I'm quite sure your making a list of what to change next time around. Excellent job, and good workmanship.
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2004
- Location
- PA
Very nice dude
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2004
- Location
- A state full of alcoholics.
Sorry to butt in again, but did you get the top grill out?
word to the wise:
1. blowholes should have the air moving up through them, not down (yeah, everyone knows this, but I had to give it a try - it raised my temps by 4 or 5 degrees versus having it blow upwards).
2. a 120 mm fan is just too big to put in the top - the plastic around the handle cuts off a half-centimeter on either side of the fan, AND
3. I think the fan is too strong - it's screwing up my front-to-back airflow, i.e. the fresh air coming in the front is being diverted upwards, and not enough is getting to the processor.
see what works for you, obviously, but maybe even keep the blowhole passive if you have enough intake. with the front fan, plus the two in the side on intake, versus just the one back fan and the one on the psu, you should have enough positive case pressure for the passive to work.
nicely done case, by the by. And bravo with the window - the case material is such crap that my cat bent my side panel by walking on it, when it was laying on a couple shirts.
Then again, he is rather a tank.
word to the wise:
1. blowholes should have the air moving up through them, not down (yeah, everyone knows this, but I had to give it a try - it raised my temps by 4 or 5 degrees versus having it blow upwards).
2. a 120 mm fan is just too big to put in the top - the plastic around the handle cuts off a half-centimeter on either side of the fan, AND
3. I think the fan is too strong - it's screwing up my front-to-back airflow, i.e. the fresh air coming in the front is being diverted upwards, and not enough is getting to the processor.
see what works for you, obviously, but maybe even keep the blowhole passive if you have enough intake. with the front fan, plus the two in the side on intake, versus just the one back fan and the one on the psu, you should have enough positive case pressure for the passive to work.
nicely done case, by the by. And bravo with the window - the case material is such crap that my cat bent my side panel by walking on it, when it was laying on a couple shirts.
Then again, he is rather a tank.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2003
- Location
- Tempe Desert
- Thread Starter
- #36
LOLNarcissus said:
Yeah, I havn't gotten around to trying to get the top vent out. The way my wire management is right now it is a REAL task to redo it all 'caus I hava ton of wires in the front behind that fan in the empty drive bays so I have to wait 'till I have enough time/patience to really get this done. I'll PM ya and let you know how it goes when I do finally get around to it.
And I prolly will just make it a passive vent of some kind too...
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2004
- Location
- powder springs ga
nice mod looks very professional got any tips on how to make a case hole fan on this case? http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=11-129-120&depa=1
OP
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2003
- Location
- Tempe Desert
- Thread Starter
- #38
Well, thats a steel case (similar to mine) so its gonna be kinda tough no matter how you go about itSaud said:
For my mod on the side panel, I used a drillpress to drill large diameter holes in the corners of my design and then used a Jigsaw with a fine toothed metal cutting blade to start at one of the holes and simply cut through to the next hole (at the next corner). Once the cuts were made, I used a large fine toothed metal file to shave down the burrs around the edges left from the cut.
In your case, it sounds like you just want to drill a hole in the side so you could still adopt the same technique: drill a hole big enough to fit the blade of the jigsaw into and then use the jigsaw to cut around the hole and then file/sand it as smooth as possible.
Don't forget to use masking tape and mask off the panel and trace your design (or hole) onto the masking tape so you don't scratch up the panel and make it all nasty looking.
MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE
Good luck!
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2004
nice job....why dont you come over and help me mod the crap outa my cheapo cheasy case?
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- Location
- Knoxville, TN
Did you change the pix recentally? It looks alot better now for soem odd reason
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