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new shuttle ak31
- Thread starter Mad_Capr
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2000
- Location
- Cow-Hampshire, USA -->"Live Free o
wildone said:
Sure thing buddy!
Take a LQQK here at one I wrote, that Skip published.
The answer to your question is, YES
If you're using the 47K Pot, you will solder one wire to the center terminal on the pot, and the other end of that wire to one of the ground screws of the mobo. There is the one in the upper right hand corner of the Shuttle mobo, which is very close to the Voltage regulator chip.
You will then solder another wire to either one of the other terminals left on the pot, which are on either side of the 1st wire you soldered to it.
Then solder, or, even better, use the Pomona Grabber to grab onto the #7 leg of the Hip6301 Voltage Regulator.
Put an ohmeter on the the two soldered connections of the Pot, and find the direction you need to turn it for MAXIMUM resistance, and REMEMBER that direction.
Set it to max, and boot to the voltage screen in the bios. Start turning the pot the other way (less resistance), and watch the voltage rise. Set it to what you want, and reboot.
Happy happy!
Doc
PS, PM me if you get confused, or need personal help.
Thanks for everything Doctor ,I am now at 2.02 volts and have my max set to 2.1 ,when I get watercooling I will go higher ,I did the mod on both of my boards and got the axia to 1500 and this one to 1580 stabily ,I got it to 1660 with cpufsb but not stable enough to do a bench,I taped and wrapped all my wires and added a fan and my Idle temps are 42-43 and 48C under load ,thats not to bad considering they were 47C and 51 under load before the mod,thanks for the new chips Doctor .
wildone
.wildone
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2000
- Location
- Cow-Hampshire, USA -->"Live Free o
wildone said:Thanks for everything Doctor ,I am now at 2.02 volts and have my max set to 2.1 ,when I get watercooling I will go higher ,I did the mod on both of my boards and got the axia to 1500 and this one to 1580 stabily ,I got it to 1660 with cpufsb but not stable enough to do a bench,I taped and wrapped all my wires and added a fan and my Idle temps are 42-43 and 48C under load ,thats not to bad considering they were 47C and 51 under load before the mod,thanks for the new chips Doctor
wildone
You're very welcome.
Congratulations!
Doc
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2000
- Location
- Cow-Hampshire, USA -->"Live Free o
wildone said:
NICE!
Now you gotta change your sig
Doc
Hey Doc,
Just a quick question on the mod...
Should I set my BIOS to the maximum available setting (+0.275) before performing this mod? Since the BIOS only truly accepts a +.10, yet offers a few more settings higher than that...yet only offers -.1 in the other direction. I'm just curious if setting the voltage to the highest setting in the BIOS, then stepping backward from there would work or not... This would allow a wider window of settings to play with through the BIOS without needing to re-adjust the pot. if cooling issues arise.
Nice idea all in all (the pull-up resistor). I am awaiting a new HSF before I try to go full bore with your mod just yet.
Thanks,
monkey
Just a quick question on the mod...
Should I set my BIOS to the maximum available setting (+0.275) before performing this mod? Since the BIOS only truly accepts a +.10, yet offers a few more settings higher than that...yet only offers -.1 in the other direction. I'm just curious if setting the voltage to the highest setting in the BIOS, then stepping backward from there would work or not... This would allow a wider window of settings to play with through the BIOS without needing to re-adjust the pot. if cooling issues arise.
Nice idea all in all (the pull-up resistor). I am awaiting a new HSF before I try to go full bore with your mod just yet.
Thanks,
monkey
OK. That is where it is set now. I was just hoping that I would have a bit more adjustment if I set it higher. That would give me a MIN of 1.75 or 1.85, and more room to play in the end. I just need the patience to wait through this week-end for the new cooler to arrive.
Stock settings I am getting 1575MHz on a TBird 1.4 using 1.85V. I am quite amazed at how fast this board is. I would love to get this CPU to 1.7 or so, but I am always skeptical of the potential of any OC. The best result I have ever seen was pushing a 533A Celeron to 800 using a 10% boost (Default P3 Voltage of 1.65V from default C533A 1.5V). That made me very happy. Pushing just over 10%...leaves me thirsting for more for some reason...
Thanks for your reply.
Stock settings I am getting 1575MHz on a TBird 1.4 using 1.85V. I am quite amazed at how fast this board is. I would love to get this CPU to 1.7 or so, but I am always skeptical of the potential of any OC. The best result I have ever seen was pushing a 533A Celeron to 800 using a 10% boost (Default P3 Voltage of 1.65V from default C533A 1.5V). That made me very happy. Pushing just over 10%...leaves me thirsting for more for some reason...
Thanks for your reply.
I ran mine up to 2.4 then the PC shut off ,you can set the voltage as high as you want.then use the voltage adjustment to back it off as needed ,I have my max set to 2.1,actually my chip is at 1600 ,I am just to lazy to update my siggy.
wildone
wildone
Nice. I'm shooting for 1700 or more with my 1.4GHz. I believe the chip came unlocked as I can freely adjust the multiplier in the BIOS and I have not done anything to any of the bridges, and the difference is clearly reflected in the performance. I have the RAM timings set to optimal using a 256MB stick of PC2100 from Crucial, and I have seen no errors, hangs or locks using an FSB of 150. Previously, I was using an MSI 6330LE3, which only allows OC settings through their crappy software utility. And from there, it only allows FSB adjustment. Any settings that I chose through the utility would cause locks. The board was reasonably fast and reliable, but I am floored by the performance that the DDR upgrade has delivered.
I am generally conservative with OCing. This will be the first modification I have made to a board, but Doc has made it look so easy that even a monkey like me can do it. I just wish that fan would hurry up and get here!
I am generally conservative with OCing. This will be the first modification I have made to a board, but Doc has made it look so easy that even a monkey like me can do it. I just wish that fan would hurry up and get here!
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale
HI guys,
I have a question,might sound stupid but do I need 2 or 1 of those potentiometers for dual cpus?Also ,there are 3 poles on that thing and as I understand we only use 2 of them.What is the third one for?
Thanks!
I have a question,might sound stupid but do I need 2 or 1 of those potentiometers for dual cpus?Also ,there are 3 poles on that thing and as I understand we only use 2 of them.What is the third one for?
Thanks!
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale
Ok,Thanks!
So,do I need 1 or 2 of those potentiometers for dual cpus?(1 for each cpu)
So,do I need 1 or 2 of those potentiometers for dual cpus?(1 for each cpu)
Sert Turk
You should find that you only have one HIP6301 IC on your board. AFAIK, the voltage is supplied from the same circuit.
Which motherboard are you using?
As far as the potentiometer goes, you will use the center pin and either one of the other two pins. When the resistance with regard to the center pin and one pin goes up, the resistance with regard to the center pin and the other pin goes down.
You should find that you only have one HIP6301 IC on your board. AFAIK, the voltage is supplied from the same circuit.
Which motherboard are you using?
As far as the potentiometer goes, you will use the center pin and either one of the other two pins. When the resistance with regard to the center pin and one pin goes up, the resistance with regard to the center pin and the other pin goes down.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2002
Doctor, you mention a 47K variable potentiometer from Radio Shack, and also that a higher value will be more difficult to adjust (what, does more per degree it's turned?). What about one that is a bit smaller?
http://www.elexp.com/srp_m45k.htm
This is a 45K potentiometer from the site linked from the article. Since this site has a minimum $20 order, if this part is a useable replacement for the Radio Shack part, perhaps people ordering from this site can save a trip to Radio Shack.
http://www.elexp.com/srp_m45k.htm
This is a 45K potentiometer from the site linked from the article. Since this site has a minimum $20 order, if this part is a useable replacement for the Radio Shack part, perhaps people ordering from this site can save a trip to Radio Shack.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2000
- Location
- Cow-Hampshire, USA -->"Live Free o
Hi Zap,
The pot you mentioned will work well for the VoltMod, however now one of our members, Larry Quinn is making Pre-made kits, exactly like I designed.
Since you're a new mwmber, and can't get to our "Classifieds" until you have 100 posts, I have a quote from his ad there:
Well...Here they are....
Complete Volt-Mod Kits!!!!!!
All joints are soldered and Heat-Shrunk to insure nothing shorts out!
Well done and VERY professional looking...(Even If I do say myself.. )
500K Ohm Cermet 25 turn trimmers....infinate variability from 500K to 0 Ohms...
I have "Factory Set" all the trimmers to MAX for safety....
Just turn the small brass screw Counter-Clockwise to raise your V-Core.
REAL PAMONA SMD Grabbers.....(Yes the GOOD ONES)!
I have even installed a screw terminal for the case (Ground) screw.
I've found that putting this under a screw for a CD-rom or H/D works best!
I had 10 units total..and 3 are gone already!
I'm asking $10.00 U.S. each...Shipping included (USPS)
If the buyer wants UPS or Fed Ex...that will be added to the original $10.00 at their cost.
If these get sold...and people want more....I WILL re-order the components....and make more available!
I take Paypal if you prefer.
E-Mail me at [email protected]
Larry
I hope this helps you out, and Welcome to the forums!
Doc
The pot you mentioned will work well for the VoltMod, however now one of our members, Larry Quinn is making Pre-made kits, exactly like I designed.
Since you're a new mwmber, and can't get to our "Classifieds" until you have 100 posts, I have a quote from his ad there:
Well...Here they are....
Complete Volt-Mod Kits!!!!!!
All joints are soldered and Heat-Shrunk to insure nothing shorts out!
Well done and VERY professional looking...(Even If I do say myself.. )
500K Ohm Cermet 25 turn trimmers....infinate variability from 500K to 0 Ohms...
I have "Factory Set" all the trimmers to MAX for safety....
Just turn the small brass screw Counter-Clockwise to raise your V-Core.
REAL PAMONA SMD Grabbers.....(Yes the GOOD ONES)!
I have even installed a screw terminal for the case (Ground) screw.
I've found that putting this under a screw for a CD-rom or H/D works best!
I had 10 units total..and 3 are gone already!
I'm asking $10.00 U.S. each...Shipping included (USPS)
If the buyer wants UPS or Fed Ex...that will be added to the original $10.00 at their cost.
If these get sold...and people want more....I WILL re-order the components....and make more available!
I take Paypal if you prefer.
E-Mail me at [email protected]
Larry
I hope this helps you out, and Welcome to the forums!
Doc
Oops, I fried my CPU
Toasted my 1700+ after running as a 2000+ at full load for 1 hour (temps < 48C). Bad CPU, bad luck or voltage too high? Oh well, great mod but alas I'll now be stuck replacing the fried CPU with a Duron 1ghz to save money until Thoroughbred comes out.
Toasted my 1700+ after running as a 2000+ at full load for 1 hour (temps < 48C). Bad CPU, bad luck or voltage too high? Oh well, great mod but alas I'll now be stuck replacing the fried CPU with a Duron 1ghz to save money until Thoroughbred comes out.
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