• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Plugging in PSU, big spark from socket

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Wolfdawg

Registered
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Location
Cossville, Tennessee
When plugging into a different socket after moving my computer, there was a big spark from the wall socket and now my computer won't turn on.

Its showing the exact same symptoms from my previous dead mobo and cpu.

The PSU was switched on "I" when I plugged it in. Trying to boot it while its off "o" and then "I" didn't work (dunno, when my new RMA'ed mobo came in I had to boot like that to get it too turn on)


Is it dead? and what parts could be dead?
:cry:
 
It took 2 months to RMA this, I just got this computer working 2 days ago, ill go ahead and assume the CPU is dead too.

AMD and MSI are going to ****ing hate me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Id first buy a QUALITY PSU like Corsair to name just one (see signature link to psu guide for more) and test out what you have. Maybe it was the PSU only... you need one of those anyway.
 
Sparking when you plug it in just means it was at least partially active.
It doesn't mean it's going to die, did die, or killed something.
Take it out and do the jumper test to see if it works by itself.

I see that spark quite often.
 
Sparking when you plug it in just means it was at least partially active.
It doesn't mean it's going to die, did die, or killed something.
Take it out and do the jumper test to see if it works by itself.

I see that spark quite often.
(it was a pretty big ****ing spark, bigger than normal, but nothing happened on my mobo)

My DiabloTek PSU passed the jumper test and booted HDD and DVDD
Now what?

note:when everything is plugged into my motherboard, my HDD doesn't make a clicking sound, It only makes that sound when its disconnected from the sata.
 
I'd second or third or even twentith saying get a good PSU at this point.

:beer:

Well, there's nothing I can do about that, my PSU is killing parts because it suks. But I can't get a new/better one, I'm 16 and it took me a year to buy all these parts of my PC, just bought MW2 for $18 and I'm broke for the month. I don't even have highspeed internet. Everything suks right now.

Waiting for Bobnova to post some miracle solution :popcorn:

p.s ill put my specs in my sig
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It might just be the PSU thats broken... don't just throw your hands in the air and assume everything is toasted.

P.S. Don't get the cheapest PSU you can get get a good brand, many recommendations around here to guide you along those lines.
 
If the regular Diablotek warranty has expired but you paid with a credit card, look into the card company's extended warranty. Mastercard won't cover it if the original warranty was for more than 1 year, but Visa and sometimes Discover extend 3-year manufacturer warranties, while American Express extends even 5-year warranties. Amex is really good for this, Visa seems to be almost as good, Mastercard is infamously bad, and I don't know about Discover. Some debit cards also provide extended coverage, but it seems to depend on the individual issuing bank.

It's normal for PSUs to make a slight visible and audible spark when plugged in, even when the rear power switch isn't turned on, because there are some RF interference filter capacitors wired across the AC lines -- a small one (little blue disk) from each of the two lines to ground, a larger one across both lines (yellow plastic boxy thing). The latter is big enough to require a resistor across it to discharge it when it's unplugged, but I don't see such a resistor in HardOCP's review of a 650W Diablotek (link). The resistor is usually on the small circuit board attached to the AC socket, but I don't see it on the main circuit board, either. The lack of it could explain the big spark, but so could a shorted component, like a capacitor or diode in the high voltage section. And considering Diablotek quality, I wouldn't rule out sloppy soldering or the circuit board shorting to the case.

diablo650w2.jpg

1291423500T3q5ytG3sm_3_13_l.jpg


If you can't get warranty coverage from Diablotek or your card company, consider unplugging the AC cord overnight and then opening up the PSU to look for burnt or cracked components, but don't touch anything, not even the big heatsinks, because they may retain high voltage on them. If possible, post clear, well-lit photos for the experts here.

Wolfdawg said:
Fans spin for a second and then quit, no boot no post

unplugging the 4pin for the CPU makes the fans run and HDD and DVDD boot but no post of course.

POST has to complete successfully for the HDD or DVDD to boot, but if the HDD and DVDD spin and the DVDD's tray opens or closes when you press the button, then the PSU is putting out fairly decent +5V and +12V. That leaves the +3.3V in question, and I think it has to be tested with a voltage meter, something those digital ones from Harbor Freight can do well (normally $7, but often $3 w/ coupon). OTOH if the PSU shuts down fast with the 4-pin CPU power socket connected, then there may be a short in the voltage regulator feeding the CPU, maybe because the regulator has a blown MOSFET and capacitor. Amazingly, the CPU usually survives that.

I'm not sure I'd trust a Diablotek PSU with anything valuable because it doesn't seem to have UL or CSA approval, which is a really bad sign, and HardOCP's review of the 650W model showed it couldn't even put out 75% of its rated power, at least not for more than a minute.
 
Last edited:
larrymoencurly is awesome, thanks for the post. It would have fixed/confirmed my problem if this had not been the case.

I fixed my PC a few days ago (been out of internet to reply here), heres what I did. With the RAM and CPU in, with the 4pin. I booted the PSU by jumping the green and black on the 24pin, loud pop and then I plugged everything in and my computer and it booted.

pop sounded like it came from the motherboard.
 
I fixed my PC a few days ago (been out of internet to reply here), heres what I did. With the RAM and CPU in, with the 4pin. I booted the PSU by jumping the green and black on the 24pin, loud pop and then I plugged everything in and my computer and it booted.

pop sounded like it came from the motherboard.
It's probably risky to turn on the PSU before plugging it into the motherboard. OTOH it's OK to hook up the 4-pin and 24-pin connectors and the then jumper the green and black wires on the 24-pin connector because the green wire's signal is the open collector type. But if you're skeptical about that, connect the green and black together through a 200-300 ohm resistor to limit the current.

I wouldn't run the computer again until the cause of the loud pop is found and corrected. It was probably a capacitor (around the CPU, in the PSU) but could have been the PSU fuse.
 
It's probably risky to turn on the PSU before plugging it into the motherboard. OTOH it's OK to hook up the 4-pin and 24-pin connectors and the then jumper the green and black wires on the 24-pin connector because the green wire's signal is the open collector type. But if you're skeptical about that, connect the green and black together through a 200-300 ohm resistor to limit the current.

I wouldn't run the computer again until the cause of the loud pop is found and corrected. It was probably a capacitor (around the CPU, in the PSU) but could have been the PSU fuse.

holy crap, I never got an email say there were new posts! :shrug:

I had everything plugged in before I turned the PSU in and the loud pop happened. Like I said, it fixed it.

I waited a few hours and checked all around my motherboard, everything seemed fine. It boots fine and has been working and gaming ever since.

Still curious what happened.
 
Guess a capacitor went bad, but it kinda was restoring itself a little, so the parts may start to work for a while. However, i would not feel secure anymore, there is definitely a issue. I would investiage the board closely if there is any visible physical damage. Best case would be a board which got spots for multimeter measurements, but only a few OC boards got such options and it can be useful to hunt down failures.

You could start to OC, when a OC is stable parts are usualy fine because the parts could not exceed a stable OC anymore. Even fully healthy boards are not always able to OC well, because the parts are not strong enough to supply so much current. When a OC to 4 GHZ is issue, board probably is damaged and not worth it to maintain. It could slowly kill the CPU by providing "bad" current with lot of ups and downs.

A good PSU is always helpful because it can help to protect the board from failures and even when a failure does appear directly on the board, its sometimes able to detect such issues and may not post or even completly refuse to work at all. Which is good, else there could be huge damage to almost any parts (short circuit, overcurrent, over or undervolt... chose the mess yourself). HDDs are not very vulnerable however because the main power source is directly from the PSU, and as long as a PSU is working properly the HDDs are usualy safe. Thats why a good PSU is a must have... saving up on the PSU is most foolish thing to do.

A small spark may happen from time to time, thats nothing to be worried about, especially when someone is having 220 V from the wall, then its more likely to appear. It only starts to be a issue when at the same time parts fail to work... since it could be a sign of damage, which is not caused by the spark itself but a huge spark could be the result of a short circuit. Short circuits may happen when for example a capacitor failed to work...
 
Last edited:
Back