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Used 1155 cpu or time to upgrade?

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issicus

Registered
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
I think my i5 2500k has died after 8 years it stopped posting.

Looks like I can get some cheap locked 1155 cpus off ebay for like $30. I know I can blck overclock those.. nice cheap fix.

Or I could get a new motherboard, ram and maybe a used cpu for closer to $230.

What would you do...
 
You will only be able to overclock a locked CPU up to it's turbo frequency but on all cores.
 
There is limited BCLK headroom on this platform... you would have the highest turbo frequency on all cores as well as whatever you can get out of the BCLK (Up to 105 if you are lucky).

That said, are we sure it is the CPU?

I would update that system, honestly. It is quite old and long in the tooth.

What do you use your PC for? What is the max budget for a new mobo/ram/cpu?
 
Got it to boot mobo spit out some surge protection and psu is show to high voltage output so I ordered a new psu.

I'm still wondering about this upgrade and I think cpu will go before the mobo or ram so I'm going to have to deal with this at some point.. but I guess it's just what I'm willing to put up with vs how much do I want to spend.

When buying stuff I aim for best price/performance so how ever much that ends up being
 
and psu is show to high voltage output so I ordered a new psu.
Software readings aren't typically accurate. What were the voltage readings? Spec is 5% from each rail.

What PSU do you have and what did you order? It feels premature to order a new PSU based off 'high' voltages read from software.

I would ask here before ordering new parts, potentially for no reason.
 
EarthDog said:
I would update that system, honestly. It is quite old and long in the tooth.
Did your finger's ignore your brain and leave out "n't"? ;)

issicus said:
Got it to boot mobo spit out some surge protection
Sounds like an ASUS board. Frankly, I have never been impressed with the ASUS Anti-surge feature. I have seen way too many "false positives" with it enabled, and years of stable service provided once disabled. It should be noted "excessive" spikes and surges often cannot be suppressed completely and can be passed through even with good PSUs. But in most cases, the motherboard regulator circuits have no problems dealing with what remains without the need for an extra anti-surge feature getting in the way. I think there's a good reason competing board makers like Gigabyte and MSI have chosen not to integrate their own versions of that anti-surge feature.

If you feed your PSU good, clean, stable power, most PSUs will provide good, clean, stable power. You should still make sure the output voltages are within allowed tolerances. Acceptable tolerance maximums:

12VDC ±5% = 11.4 to 12.6VDC
5VDC ±5% = 4.75 to 5.25VDC
3.3VDC ±5% = 3.14 to 3.47VDC

HWiNFO64 is a good program to check those voltages. But note the massive amount of information this program displays can be overwhelming so I suggest you check "Sensors Only" when it starts - at least until you become more familiar with it. But understand, no software based hardware monitor can measure ripple. And because they take a snapshot of sensor values, they cannot show if the power supply is regulating power properly under all expected load levels. But they can still give you a good idea if working or not, or if out of tolerance.

In any case, if you didn't have a spare PSU to try out, then ordering a new one is probably a good idea, then you can keep the old as your spare.

I'm still wondering about this upgrade and I think cpu will go before the mobo or ram so I'm going to have to deal with this at some point.
If you can find a replacement CPU at a good price (and the seller is reputable and has a decent return policy) I might go that way. Otherwise, a full motherboard/CPU/RAM replacement will be much more expensive. Plus, if your current Windows license is OEM/System Builders (as the vast majority are) your new motherboard constitutes a new computer and thus, to be legal, you will need to purchase a new Windows license too, adding a bit more to your budget requirements. Another concern would be your new PSU? Will it support a different, and perhaps more demanding motherboard/CPU/RAM? What if you add a graphics card?
 
Haha, it can go either way with how it was written.

The point there was that he needs to update/upgrade his system, which I thought was clear by the subsequent sentence(s).

In any case, if you didn't have a spare PSU to try out, then ordering a new one is probably a good idea, then you can keep the old as your spare
He also already bought a new PSU... though I can't say it was a problem considering we don't have the (questionable) software values. It has to be really spitting out some out of spec voltage to have it BSOD from being on the HIGH side... It's easier for a board to step down high range than to make the necessary power for being low. The reality is he needs to test it with a Multi-meter and REALLY see the results before he ever bought a new PSU and relied on software.
 
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which I thought was clear by the subsequent sentence(s).
It was, in your head! ;) But as you noted, when reading it, it could go either way. That's why I assumed your fingers weren't listening to your head (as happens to me too often). I just don't like to assume.

That said, I agree. With everything being that old, unless a replacement CPU can be found really cheap, a full upgrade is what's needed here. The problem I see is even if a replacement CPU can be found on the cheap, I'm not certain the current CPU is the problem! It could be the PSU, but I also suspect the motherboard. Buying a replacement CPU at this point may just be throwing good money after bad - unless the seller has a generous return policy.

The reality is he needs to test it with a Multi-meter and REALLY see the results before he ever bought a new PSU and relied on software.
The problem there is even testing with a multimeter may not be conclusive.

To do it properly the supply needs to be tested under a full range of realistic loads. Thus the voltages must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on and performing a variety of tasks from idle to near full capacity. Users would need to research and learn the pin-outs to ensure all three voltages are present and within allowed tolerances. Plus, most inexpensive multimeters don't test for excessive ripple riding the DC and other anomalies that affect computer stability. So to conclusively test a PSU, it needs to be done by someone qualified to use an oscilloscope or dedicated power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results.

So swapping in a known good spare is the best alternative for most users - and techs too. But this too would be best done, if possible, BEFORE buying a new PSU to determine if a new PSU is even needed.

Oh well. I guess that's water under the bridge now. I hope the new PSU fixes it.

@issicus - one more thing you should check while waiting for your new PSU to arrive is your wall outlet wiring. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.
 
The problem there is even testing with a multimeter may not be conclusive.
It's conclusive enough for this use. If software is a nuclear bomb for accuracy, a multi-meter is a hand grenade. It would tell him whether or not the voltage is truly out of spec, his concern in the first place. Placing the unit under load is also part of it, but as you said, water under the bridge for this minutia.

While you are right, professional tools are the best, however, even 99% of enthusiasts cannot get their hands on one for free/limited cost so you do what you can, easily. A MM does this.. and why I don't go into such explanations in where applicable.

(and I do not want to jump on the merry-go-round of this subject with you...please).
 
Yeah, I think replacing that PSU is a good place to start.

If it's as old as the components it is powering it is time.
 
20190802_151658.jpg

Well I put in the new psu and whoever thought asus surge protection doesn't work was probably right. Is this thing safe to use? Lol
 
I left it on for awhile and nothing bad happened. Not really sure what to do. It must be telling me the wrong numbers so its okay..?

In the bios it says cpu voltage is 1.6 but in hwmonitor it doesn't go over 1.4

Maybe I should start a new thread.
 
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View attachment 206814

Well I put in the new psu and whoever thought asus surge protection doesn't work was probably right. Is this thing safe to use? Lol
If those voltages were legit, your PC wouldn't be running amd your board smoking.

Dont rely on software to tell you voltage. A multi meter needs to be used on both idle and load to get accurate readings.

Clearly though something is up with that board as many sensors are way off.
 
If those voltages were legit, your PC wouldn't be running amd your board smoking.

Clearly though something is up with that board as many sensors are way off.
I agree. If your +5V and +12V were really sitting over +8V and +20V respectively as seen in that image, the computer would not be running - if for no reason than the PSU itself "should" shutdown as a safety precaution. But voltage readings are not the only readings that are impossibly off. Note the MB Temp is reported to be below freezing (-3°C / 27°F)! You do occasionally get wacky readings if there is no sensor when the monitoring program expects one. But typically BIOS firmware monitoring is correctly coded to only report on what is there since they should know.

I left it on for awhile and nothing bad happened.
It should be noted those temperature and voltage sensors are very low-tech, inexpensive and often very inaccurate devices. That said, it is rare to see both temps and voltages so far off. Since it seemed to run fine when you left it on for awhile, I think there is some corruption in the BIOS. If me, I would reset the BIOS - in this case, by just replacing the CMOS battery.

I recommend you shut down AND unplug the computer from the wall. Open the side panel and touch bare metal of the case interior with your bare finger to discharge any static in your body. Then carefully remove the CMOS battery - noting the polarity first. Replacement batteries can be found at just about any battery/camera/watch counter at your local discount or home improvement center. It most likely is a CR2032 wafer battery.

Do not touch the new battery with your bare fingers as skin oils attract dust and can promote corrosion. Insert the new battery, again observing the original polarity. While in there, inspect your cables connections to insure all are securely fastened.

Then connect power and boot directly into the BIOS Setup Menu. Check/set your date and time, and if necessary change the boot order to put your boot disk first. Then Save and Exit to [hopefully] boot normally.

If the readings are still way off, then you might want to reflash the BIOS. I say "might" because if the computer runs fine - it is often best to just leave it. But still, I would check the computer/motherboard's website to see if there is an updated BIOS firmware. Read the change logs - it just might say something about voltage and temp readings, if there is an updated version.
 
As long as I'm sure my psu is good I can ignore high voltage readings from the motherboard, is this correct?
 
As long as I'm sure my psu is good I can ignore high voltage readings from the motherboard, is this correct?

Absolutely not! The motherboard has it's own voltage regulation components and as ED said, something is wrong with that board. The actual numbers are not to be trusted but my concern would be that it will skew the thermal overload protection calculations.
 
I'd look into a new mobo, but not necessarily due to temps. Temps and thermal throttling shouldn't be an issue because the CPU itself has the sensor on it. The motherboards just reads it and have their own, additional means to change throttling temperatures.

But yeah, I would reflash the BIOS... if that doesn't work, go get another or time to get a new PC.
 
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