- Joined
- Oct 23, 2001
- Location
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Hello Everyone,
Well here's what happened, I got my 1600+ about a month back
and did some research on how to unlock these XP's. I was
previously using a Duron 700 and had it unlocked and running at 1050 mhz with the good old pencil trick and attempted to do the
same with my XP, long story short it will not work with a pencil.
Well it appears the new XP's (green surface) have some kind of a
coating over the L1's and it is recomended to scrape the L1 dots
to have a conductive surface to work with, seems simple
enough, but I ended up taking too much of the surface off and basically rendered the chip to be unlockable due to a metal surface that lies beneath the "green stuff". Well for those of you who have run into the same situation here is how to fix it.
Get some crazy glue and make a nice layer over the bridges
and dots. Let the glue dry untill hardened. Place the chip on a
smooth surface. With the "tip" of an exacto knife put it over a dot
and rotate the chip once, this acts as a drilling device but with much more controll and accuracy. This will create a small pit to the dot. Repeat with all dots and clear any debris within the pits. I
have seen recomondations as to what to use as the conductive
bridge and chose Defogger Repair Kit.
Now that we have our chip prepaired you want to mask the dots
of each L1 bridge individually and use the defogger paint to
bridge the 2 dots, make sure you get inside of the pits when
making the bridge, let dry and move on to the next one. After that you should be able to change the multiplyer settings
withought any problems.
Tips:
Check out the following link, go to the last page of the review by
Tom's Hardware, download their walkthrough video for unlocking XP / MP. They recomend using a system of 900 mhz or greater to
view the video. It is about 10 megs in size but worth the time it
takes if using analog connection.
http://www.tomshardware.com/column/...1124/index.html
Following link provides abundant amount of technical information and diagrams for Durons, Athlons/Palomino XP
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/PaloDecode0.htm
Following link is technical documentation and diagrams for the Thorough Bred XP
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/TbredDecode0.htm
L1 Bridges are for unlocking the multiplyer
L5 Bridges are for enabling Athlon MP (multi processor functionality)
L7 Bridges are for unlocking voltage settings Duron - Palominos
When scraping the surface off of the dots on the new green
surface chips be sure to use something with a fine tip and only
scrape the dot not actually sanding the surface.
Well I hope this sums it all up in one post, and I hope you dont
need to go through the extream I had to in order to get your chip unlocked but at least there is a way to fix it
Have fun and good luck with your overclocking!
Well here's what happened, I got my 1600+ about a month back
and did some research on how to unlock these XP's. I was
previously using a Duron 700 and had it unlocked and running at 1050 mhz with the good old pencil trick and attempted to do the
same with my XP, long story short it will not work with a pencil.
Well it appears the new XP's (green surface) have some kind of a
coating over the L1's and it is recomended to scrape the L1 dots
to have a conductive surface to work with, seems simple
enough, but I ended up taking too much of the surface off and basically rendered the chip to be unlockable due to a metal surface that lies beneath the "green stuff". Well for those of you who have run into the same situation here is how to fix it.
Get some crazy glue and make a nice layer over the bridges
and dots. Let the glue dry untill hardened. Place the chip on a
smooth surface. With the "tip" of an exacto knife put it over a dot
and rotate the chip once, this acts as a drilling device but with much more controll and accuracy. This will create a small pit to the dot. Repeat with all dots and clear any debris within the pits. I
have seen recomondations as to what to use as the conductive
bridge and chose Defogger Repair Kit.
Now that we have our chip prepaired you want to mask the dots
of each L1 bridge individually and use the defogger paint to
bridge the 2 dots, make sure you get inside of the pits when
making the bridge, let dry and move on to the next one. After that you should be able to change the multiplyer settings
withought any problems.
Tips:
Check out the following link, go to the last page of the review by
Tom's Hardware, download their walkthrough video for unlocking XP / MP. They recomend using a system of 900 mhz or greater to
view the video. It is about 10 megs in size but worth the time it
takes if using analog connection.
http://www.tomshardware.com/column/...1124/index.html
Following link provides abundant amount of technical information and diagrams for Durons, Athlons/Palomino XP
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/PaloDecode0.htm
Following link is technical documentation and diagrams for the Thorough Bred XP
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/TbredDecode0.htm
L1 Bridges are for unlocking the multiplyer
L5 Bridges are for enabling Athlon MP (multi processor functionality)
L7 Bridges are for unlocking voltage settings Duron - Palominos
When scraping the surface off of the dots on the new green
surface chips be sure to use something with a fine tip and only
scrape the dot not actually sanding the surface.
Well I hope this sums it all up in one post, and I hope you dont
need to go through the extream I had to in order to get your chip unlocked but at least there is a way to fix it
Have fun and good luck with your overclocking!
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