How-To make your own — Petar Lazarevski
I’ve used water to cool my video cards for quite a while now. The first one to be watercooled was my Diamond Viper 770 and it performed much better with the waterblock mounted instead of a small heatsink with no fan on it. Details about this can be found right HERE and HERE.
The waterblock that I have used was of a simple cross-drilled type, just like this one:
It has two main (collector) channels and four connecting channels of a smaller diameter. Just to let you have an idea how does it look inside, I have added this picture:
Nipples and Allen bolts that are used to plug the holes where the drill bit went through are clearly visible.
This kind of waterblock works perfectly well in case you have no memory heatsinks on your video card. If you want to make one yourself, the detailed drawings can be downloaded HERE (456K).
Enclosed in this archive you are going to find four folders, named Clip, Nipple, WB assembled and WB raw. Inside these folders are detailed draftings and cross-sectional views, all you need to make a complete setup. If you do everything following these drawings, you’ll have no trouble mounting it and your GPU is going to run a lot cooler than with any HSF you could buy.
Of course, you may have a video card with some components (like capacitors) that are going to make mounting impossible, so you first have to check if you have enough space for this waterblock.
However, if you have a video adapter with extremely fast memory, it is very likely that there are heatsinks glued onto the chips. A portion of the PCB with memory heatsinks is shown on the picture that follows (some components not shown for clarity reasons):
It is obvious that the heatsinks stay in the way of the nipples and that the simple waterblock could not be mounted. Since I have recently purchased a card that looks just like this, I thought of a way to make nipples “higher”.
Of course, I could use some bent copper tubes to make nipples, but I thought that it would be too much trouble, since the bending radius would be so small. So I used some leftover square brass bars to make four identical angle adapters, just like one on the picture below:
The appropriate nipple could be made of a hexagonal brass bar and should have a thread that fits into the adapter. It should look something like this:
This is a very small nipple with M8 metric thick pitch threading and 5mm inner diameter hole in it. It is quite sufficient for the flow needed to cool down the GPU perfectly.
I used four copper washers between the adapters and the waterblock body, but if you have some good thread-sealing compound (like those made by Locktite or Wurth), you won’t need washers at all. All the parts needed to assemble this kind of “upgraded” GPU waterblock are shown on this exploded view: