• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Prime95 High Temperatures on Stock Clock Speeds (AMD FX-8320)

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
Thanks for all the replies. Yes motherboard isn't exactly the high quality. But I've been using it for months now also did some overclocking to 4ghz from OverDrive while gaming. Anyways only fan i have is the stock amd fan. I'll try to use it. In the mean time where am I supposte to blow the air towards.

QTwxyY7.jpg

1 or 2?

If it's been serving you for months, then use the darn thing. OverDrive isn't the best place to OC for daily settings either unless you prefer to mostly run stock clocks from bios. In that case occasional OC with AOD is fine, just be weary of stability problems with that program.

You would put the fan in the square on the left... 1 I suppose, and putting one on that chipset would never hurt either. Can never have enough cooling on that board.
 
For putting fans on the VRM you can use double sided tape, zip ties, really anything that will hold it on.

MongGrel, if its blowing inward I would just flip the fan instead of the cooler.
 
I don't think i can turn the cpu heatsink 90 degrees because rams are high profile and it would interfere with them. So at the moment it seems like it is not a viable option. But once I get the fans in my hands I'll try some different configurations.
 
If it's been serving you for months, then use the darn thing. OverDrive isn't the best place to OC for daily settings either unless you prefer to mostly run stock clocks from bios. In that case occasional OC with AOD is fine, just be weary of stability problems with that program.

You would put the fan in the square on the left... 1 I suppose, and putting one on that chipset would never hurt either. Can never have enough cooling on that board.

Opening Overdrive everytime is a bit of a hastle. So I would like to try and do a stabile overclock from the bios and improve my knowledge of overclocking in the process.
 
Opening Overdrive everytime is a bit of a hastle. So I would like to try and do a stabile overclock from the bios and improve my knowledge of overclocking in the process.

Let's get the cooling in place first, then we'll get you running faster :)
 
I'd do both myself, but that's just me I guess.

*edit* Ok on the not doable thing, but that fan on the rear I'd put to exhaust if it isn't at any rate.

Those little heat sinks on top of the ram usually can be removed easily and really don't do that much if they are near fans moving air at any rate.
 
Last edited:
Those little heat sinks on top of the ram usually can be removed easily and really don't do that much if they are near fans moving air at any rate.
If those are G.Skill Ripjaws when they don't come off, at least the 2 sets that I have, don't. Not unless you remove the whole heatsink from the Ic's.
 
They are G.Skill Ripjaws. Haven't tried removing them before but it will probably be my last resort if all else fails.
 
I don't think i can turn the cpu heatsink 90 degrees because rams are high profile and it would interfere with them. So at the moment it seems like it is not a viable option. But once I get the fans in my hands I'll try some different configurations.

No, we meant flipping the rear case fan around to exhaust the air if it is not already doing so. We weren't talking about the CPU cooling fan but while were' at it make sure that one is forcing air through the heatsink toward the rear of the case. As your package temps look good I don't think either fan is a problem.
 
They are G.Skill Ripjaws. Haven't tried removing them before but it will probably be my last resort if all else fails.
Was just a suggestion, actually have Ripjaws in here and had never looked at the sinks too close, I know the Dominators I used to have in here it was easy.

If that's not doable look for other things to do, ya.

:thup:
 
Last edited:
I lowered the voltage as suggested before. Results were promising. I lowered the voltage from auto (which i believe is 1.42 or something) to 1.38. This improved the results significantly. Up to 10 degrees infact.

KHt6Wf4.png
 
Some serious vDroop occuring there. Does that board have an LLC setting?
 
Couldn't find any LLC or Load Line Calibration in the bios settings. I assume that was what LLC stood for after a quick google search.
 
Honestly, I would recommend you don't overclock on that motherboard. 4+1 phase and lower quality components is probably going to mean a quick death for that board. You really need something more beefy for overclocking. I am having great luck with the fatal1ty killer board, and it wasn't TOO expensive.

This was after toasting an m5a97 LE R2.0 which is pretty similar to your board you have now. Worked great for oh, a week. Then my overclocks started slipping quickly, and a week later my motherboard would no longer post.


Stay under 4.0ghz, keep your voltages low as possible with that chip. Who knows, maybe you're lucky, up to you I guess.
 
Couldn't find any LLC or Load Line Calibration in the bios settings. I assume that was what LLC stood for after a quick google search.

I was hoping you could up the LLC and lower the vCore, but I guess that's a no go.
 
Honestly, I would recommend you don't overclock on that motherboard. 4+1 phase and lower quality components is probably going to mean a quick death for that board. You really need something more beefy for overclocking. I am having great luck with the fatal1ty killer board, and it wasn't TOO expensive.

This was after toasting an m5a97 LE R2.0 which is pretty similar to your board you have now. Worked great for oh, a week. Then my overclocks started slipping quickly, and a week later my motherboard would no longer post.


Stay under 4.0ghz, keep your voltages low as possible with that chip. Who knows, maybe you're lucky, up to you I guess.

I wouldn't OC on MSI's best most expensive board..... but that's me.

@op
If bios has a VDDA cpu voltage option, try increasing it a little and see if it helps with the v-droop. EDIT may be called Cpu PLL voltage.
 
No VDDA cpu voltage option or Cpu PLL voltage option. But I was mistaken, I set my cpu voltage to 1.36, not 1.38. So there are still some vdrops but its a lot better than what I assumed it previously was. It seems not much i can do about vdrops. I suppose I'll just have to compensate for it by giving slightly higher voltage than I aim to achieve.
 
No llc kinda sucks, not end of the world just annoying as you have to run higher just to keep that minimum higher. was looking into your board it seems earlier bios's had llc. There's no denying the board is a bit of a pooper. I'll be honest if you want to overclock the best you'll get safely will be 4.2-4.3ghz, I wouldn't use anymore voltage than 1.35. You really need the fx series to be in the 4.7-4.8+ range and the board will pop before you get there..That 212 is doing a brilliant job though, i'd be happy as long as those vrms stabilised at 80c max.
 
Honestly I'd take 4.2 any day. I'm just looking for some slight performance improvements in cpu intensive games. Sometimes I get the feeling that it bottlenecks in some games. Even if it doesn't more performance wouldn't hurt. Well if the board brakes then that would hurt but like I said my expectations aren't very high anyways.
 
Honestly I'd take 4.2 any day. I'm just looking for some slight performance improvements in cpu intensive games. Sometimes I get the feeling that it bottlenecks in some games. Even if it doesn't more performance wouldn't hurt. Well if the board brakes then that would hurt but like I said my expectations aren't very high anyways.

Well try 4.2ghz on that 1.4v you where running. The temps where really not that high to begin with. you got up to 70c with that Cpu socket temp. (TMPIN 0)

Also if you use bios to control the fan, simply put the fan settings to disabled to run full blast. At any rate, turn up the CFM on the fans if you can.
 
Back