- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Actually, I plan on bead blasting the entire inside when I'm finished, to give it a rough surface. Ferric Chloride, used to etch circuit cards would work, but I'm fresh out. 
Hoot
Hoot
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Any OC.com Member make waterblocks?
- Thread starter CreePinG_DeatH
- Start date
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #22
Hoot- did you make that one heatsink? Or did you buy it somewhere?
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
It's was pre-production sample of an air cooled heatsink that may or may not wind up being introduced into the market. Look how long people have been waiting for the SLK-600. I believe there are other short pin based copper heatsinks out there though. I seem to recall seeing one or two for some obscure CPU, who's designator eludes me, but it had a U in it.
Hoot
Hoot
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2001
- Location
- Sunshine State, USA
Hoot said:
Looks like you made a total of 225 snips
Its a good thing you weren't making it with a dense pin Alpha, or you'd stil be snippin
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2001
I can, to a minor degree. I lack alot of the tools needed for most. I have made 1 complete so far.
SilverBell
There is the one that I have made and completed, tested for leaks, but not quite yet for effeciency, that is soon to come.
SilverBell
There is the one that I have made and completed, tested for leaks, but not quite yet for effeciency, that is soon to come.
Frodo Baggins
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2001
- Location
- City of Dreaming Spires
hoot! that's one beautiful block...er....block base!
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #27
I checked out Alpha's website and took a look at their High Density Fin heatsinks... The ones with the pins... Those look tasty... I sent an email to Alpha asking if they make a HS like that in copper though. I would assume it wouldn't be hard since I am sure they have the molds for it. Anyway, my question is this:
Once I get the copper heatsink, would it be wise to use some sort of a saw to cut the pins down to a standard size? or am I going to have to clip them with some sort of clippers?
And once the pins are short enough, would I be able to use a saw to cut lengthwise to make room for the channels of the waterblock that I am going to fit over it? If so, what would the minimum blade thickness be that I could use? Any recommendations are welcome.
That's it for now. I'll think of something later.
Once I get the copper heatsink, would it be wise to use some sort of a saw to cut the pins down to a standard size? or am I going to have to clip them with some sort of clippers?
And once the pins are short enough, would I be able to use a saw to cut lengthwise to make room for the channels of the waterblock that I am going to fit over it? If so, what would the minimum blade thickness be that I could use? Any recommendations are welcome.
That's it for now. I'll think of something later.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2001
- Location
- in the garage
Hoot: AWESOME!!! I want that block!!!
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2001
- Location
- your computer
isn't that the globalwin cdk38 prototype ?
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #30
Oh and another question I need answered is if I want to cut the base of a heatsink down, is it safe to actually cut it with something or should I just keep sanding it down with rough paper and then smooth it out? Thanx.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #31
Ok so alpha doesn't make any more copper heatsinks because of the short "tooling" life... what ever that means. So now my question is this: Water absorbs heat faster from aluminum right? Copper is just better at spreading it out. So for this application of a waterblock/heatsink Aluminum would be the better choice. And if I needed the heat to be spread out for whatever reason, I could just use a copper or silver coldplate. Am I correct?
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2002
- Location
- Playing Counterstrike someplace...
The copper/aluminium debate has been raging for some time, with no clear winner as far as i know. The difference is very slight, in both spreading and radiation. Doing a bi-metal block to take advantage of the benefits of each material is notoriously hard, simply because of the inefficiency of the join between the 2 metals.
I think Hoot made his from copper because the heatsink he modified was copper in the first place. If it was aluminium, he's still have done it i guess, and the difference wouldn't be too severe.
Its also best to use the same material for the block as you do for the radiator, due to the battery effect, this is lessened by waterwetter, obviously, but its better to just stick to the same materials from the get go, if you can.
These are some great design ideas guys, keep it going.
I remember something similar to this was done with an old heatsink with clear lexan sides. looked cool too, with dyelite in the water.
I think Hoot made his from copper because the heatsink he modified was copper in the first place. If it was aluminium, he's still have done it i guess, and the difference wouldn't be too severe.
Its also best to use the same material for the block as you do for the radiator, due to the battery effect, this is lessened by waterwetter, obviously, but its better to just stick to the same materials from the get go, if you can.
These are some great design ideas guys, keep it going.
I remember something similar to this was done with an old heatsink with clear lexan sides. looked cool too, with dyelite in the water.
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #33
Ok cool... Now I just need some answers on the cutting methods... see previous posts.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Just an update on my progress so far. I had some spare time today, so I got some of the sub-components done. I'm still pondering on the top cover though. The brass strap stock that I bent to make the outer wall is too thin to screw into or glue onto, so I'll probably go with a piece of plate stock for the top cover. I'm also still pondering a hold-down method. More as time permits.
Hoot
Hoot
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- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Put together, it looks like this. Water flow is the blue shading. Circles denote where the 1/2" barbs will be.
Hoot
Hoot
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OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #36
Looks excellent Hoot... I just emailed a company that makes molds and casts silver for jewlers and such. Hopefull they will be able to make a mold and cast the heatsink I want in silver. I'll keep you posted on the reply.
What is really eating away at me is whether my additional 500 pins in my heatsink and the fact that it is silver is going to make any difference, and if so how much? lol time will tell I guess.
What is really eating away at me is whether my additional 500 pins in my heatsink and the fact that it is silver is going to make any difference, and if so how much? lol time will tell I guess.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2000
Excelent job Hoot! I cant wait to see how that block stacks up against the maze3 and gemini.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
I think there is a point of diminishing returns on pin count. I actually wish this base I'm using had less of them. I think the more pins you have, the shorter they should be. I chose 3/8" height so they would just reach the cover plate. That way, water would not take the path of least resistance and flow across the upper part of the inside area, thus skipping a lot of the pin and baseplate exposure. Part of me still says to cut the pins down further, having them only about 1/8-1/4" high. I don't think that much heat will rise up the top of tall pins for the water to wick away.
Hoot
Hoot
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