- Joined
- Dec 19, 2000
WOw hoot looks even better now! From the side it looks sand blasted but the top doesn't look like it. How did you finish the block?
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Any OC.com Member make waterblocks?
- Thread starter CreePinG_DeatH
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2002
- Location
- Bristol [UK]
Niiiiice 
Looking very good indeed - can't wait to see how it performs
Looking very good indeed - can't wait to see how it performs - Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
I sandblasted the sides and interestingly, the inside as well. Figured it would give it some friction. Top is buffed and the face is lapped.
Hoot
Hoot
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2002
- Location
- Bristol [UK]
I'd like to second MaskedGeek's request - bring on the reuslts!!!
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #67
I think he said something about being super busy this week but maybe this weekend.
- Joined
- May 9, 2001
- Location
- Portland, OR
Nice job, Hoot! Creeping, any luck finding someone who will do single (non-bulk) machining jobs?
OP
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Thread Starter
- #69
Nope... So I am taking a heatsink that I think holds a lot of potential, and sand casting it in silver. It will be SWEET. Definitely front page material.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Whee Dogies!
Well, I finally got around to benchmarking the water sink against my Gemini High Flow water block and the results can speak for themselves. C/W for the block is calculated based upon inlet water temperature and CPU core temperature measured using the Internal Thermal Diode in the Athlon XP and one of my SMBus Thermal Diode Readers. CPU loading was accomplished using Prime95 Torture. CPU speed was 10.5x170 @ 1.85V=90 Watts
System Architecture:
Eheim 1048 3/8" Silicon tubing to 6x6x2 inch heater core (1/2" barbs) to water sink inlet (1/2" barbs) to NB "pipe cap" block inlet (1/2" barbs) back to Eheim. No resevoir.
Gemini Water Block (3/8" barbs)
Condition-----Room Air-----System-----Inlet Water-----CPU-----C/W
Idle------------21C-----------24C----------24C--------------32C-----N/A
P95------------21C-----------25C----------25C--------------38C-----.14
Hoots Water Sink
Condition-----Room Air-----System-----Inlet Water-----CPU-----C/W
Idle------------21C-----------24C----------24C--------------29C-----N/A
P95------------21C-----------25C----------25C--------------35C-----.11
AS3 has not had a long time to settle in and all the air has not been burped out since the changeout and already it's a Winner! Sorry to take so long getting the results to you guys.
Next experiment will be comparing the Eheim 1250 to the 1048 with my new setup.
Needless to say, I'm very happy!
Hoot
Well, I finally got around to benchmarking the water sink against my Gemini High Flow water block and the results can speak for themselves. C/W for the block is calculated based upon inlet water temperature and CPU core temperature measured using the Internal Thermal Diode in the Athlon XP and one of my SMBus Thermal Diode Readers. CPU loading was accomplished using Prime95 Torture. CPU speed was 10.5x170 @ 1.85V=90 Watts
System Architecture:
Eheim 1048 3/8" Silicon tubing to 6x6x2 inch heater core (1/2" barbs) to water sink inlet (1/2" barbs) to NB "pipe cap" block inlet (1/2" barbs) back to Eheim. No resevoir.
Gemini Water Block (3/8" barbs)
Condition-----Room Air-----System-----Inlet Water-----CPU-----C/W
Idle------------21C-----------24C----------24C--------------32C-----N/A
P95------------21C-----------25C----------25C--------------38C-----.14
Hoots Water Sink
Condition-----Room Air-----System-----Inlet Water-----CPU-----C/W
Idle------------21C-----------24C----------24C--------------29C-----N/A
P95------------21C-----------25C----------25C--------------35C-----.11
AS3 has not had a long time to settle in and all the air has not been burped out since the changeout and already it's a Winner! Sorry to take so long getting the results to you guys.
Next experiment will be comparing the Eheim 1250 to the 1048 with my new setup.
Needless to say, I'm very happy!
Hoot
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2001
- Location
- Orange County
OH...MY...GOD...I need myself a waterblock that gets .11 C/W! If your measurements were as accurate as Joes, you made yourself a block thats twice as good as anything out there! You should sell the design to swiftech or dangerden or something.
Wanna give it to a poor overclocker like myself?
Wanna give it to a poor overclocker like myself?
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Don't confuse the results using a real CPU with the results using a DIE Simulator. They won't yield the same. I doubt this water sink can be reproduced since the baseplate was pirated from a pre-production air cooled heatsink that has not gone into production yet.
Hoot
Hoot
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2000
Ok Hoot Sign me up for one of your early production samples
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
The amount of touch labor that went into this unit prohibits manufacturing them with any hope of a profit out of the effort.
Hoot
I'm beat, now off to bed...
Hoot
I'm beat, now off to bed...
Is Hoot's creation the near perfect waterblock with the TIM layer contributing 90%+ of the thermal resistance? If the watercooling is accounting for 70% of the CPU heat(63w?) it might be .
Taking Billa's values for the thermal resistance of a 10x10mm sq of AS(values range from a low of 0.1640 (per AS procedure) to a high of 0.2283 (thick, cerberos procedure))*, the thermal resistance of the TIM alone could be from 0.1C/W upwards.
* From here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37515&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
Taking Billa's values for the thermal resistance of a 10x10mm sq of AS(values range from a low of 0.1640 (per AS procedure) to a high of 0.2283 (thick, cerberos procedure))*, the thermal resistance of the TIM alone could be from 0.1C/W upwards.
* From here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37515&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
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and ya gotta stick a maxijet in there! test the diff between that and eheim, i am doubting a difference.... everyone is always eheim this eheim that! maxijet needs to be compared against them to tell the real diff between them pumps
and also i gotta get my block to you sometime! im hopin to make another one in school soon prob tuesday if at all possible....
and also i gotta get my block to you sometime! im hopin to make another one in school soon prob tuesday if at all possible....
Translation: Hoot's watersink kicks butt!
I don't see the difference as long as they provide the same flow rate as long as there isn't more heat add by pump.
been waiting to see how well hoot's watersink cools before I cut up my swiftech's. now I need to go get some copper stock.
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2002
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Los Angeles
"the overclocker" - you're going to blind tap into copper #4 or smaller how many times ???? Let me know how many taps you break and how successful you were at removing the broken taps from the hole after it has jammed itself in there.
The ease with which you can break those small taps is astounding - especially when the cuttings jam the tap and you can't even unscrew it . . . trust me I've been there. Tallow on the tap to capture the cuttings and break the "swarf" very frequently. I'd suggest drilling all the way through so that you reduce the risk of tap breakage, make a slight countersink on the bottom - thread the pin so it protrudes through the bottom and peen the end out like a rivet so it won't come undone, then sand down the surface.
How about this - drill and ream the holes so that they are an interference fit for the pins, 0.002" say - freeze the pins with frozen CO2, heat the block with heat gun to 500c+ and put the pins in the holes (if you calculate right they should drop in) - make sure they protrude a little. When the plate cools it should hold and seal the pins, then sand/lapp the bottom.
The ease with which you can break those small taps is astounding - especially when the cuttings jam the tap and you can't even unscrew it . . . trust me I've been there. Tallow on the tap to capture the cuttings and break the "swarf" very frequently. I'd suggest drilling all the way through so that you reduce the risk of tap breakage, make a slight countersink on the bottom - thread the pin so it protrudes through the bottom and peen the end out like a rivet so it won't come undone, then sand down the surface.
How about this - drill and ream the holes so that they are an interference fit for the pins, 0.002" say - freeze the pins with frozen CO2, heat the block with heat gun to 500c+ and put the pins in the holes (if you calculate right they should drop in) - make sure they protrude a little. When the plate cools it should hold and seal the pins, then sand/lapp the bottom.
