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Lousy tubing wont bend to fit in my case...

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Nebuchadnazzar

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2003
Location
Canada, Ottawa/Toronto
I put together a small loop with a swiftech 2x120 rad, mcp655 pump, swiftech gtz ci7. It goes pump > rad > T-line > CPU > pump. I decided to use some cheap 1/2" id, 3/4" od tubing from the local hardware store, but it's so stiff i can't bend it to fit in my case. Anything tighter than a 4" radius bend takes a lot of forcing. Is brand name tubing any better? It's hard for me to get decent tubing since I'm in Canada. I'm almost thinking of just sticking in a bunch of 'L' bends, but i'd rather not because i'm sure they'll restrict the flow by a lot.

Any suggestions?
 
bitspower L's

They were tested to give very little flow drops.

I use them when i cant get a bend in.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-G1-4-Silver-Shining-L-Rotary-Adapter-pr-4255.html
t_4255.jpg


or

http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-angle-fitting-1-2-Barb-BP-WTP-C26-pr-4339.html
BPWTPC26_small.jpg


Theres actually 1 more... but u get the general idea...

I highly recomend rotary L's when you use them in application tho. Rotary's are very helpful and nice.
 
I put together a small loop with a swiftech 2x120 rad, mcp655 pump, swiftech gtz ci7. It goes pump > rad > T-line > CPU > pump. I decided to use some cheap 1/2" id, 3/4" od tubing from the local hardware store, but it's so stiff i can't bend it to fit in my case. Anything tighter than a 4" radius bend takes a lot of forcing. Is brand name tubing any better? It's hard for me to get decent tubing since I'm in Canada. I'm almost thinking of just sticking in a bunch of 'L' bends, but i'd rather not because i'm sure they'll restrict the flow by a lot.

Any suggestions?

A lot better. For my first water cooling loop I bought some cheap junk from the hardware store and it was extremely stiff to where I couldn't even squeeze it with my fingers. For my next loop I got some tygon and it is in a completely different world. Feels more like rubber tubing compared to how the other stuff feels like plastic. Much easier to work with. :)
 
Yes, most of the better (ie more expensive) tubing available at water cooling sites have a better bend radius. You don't need the most expensive tubing like Tygon however. I've gotten great results with Masterclear.

What I did for my systems that I used hardware store tubing on:
Clear a workspace like a table top, desk, work bench whatever.
Tear off 3 or 4 6" pieces of masking tape, and stick it to the edge of the desk where it's handy when you need it.
Boil a 6 quart pot of water and drop in your offending tube for a few seconds. Use tongs or something similar to remove...it's just as hot as boiling water, and quite pliable now.
Place it on that clear worktop with the bend it how you like and tape it down quickly before the tubing begins to cool, keeping the radius' about 50% more than required because of "spring back".

Disclaimer: Not all hardware store tubing will hold this radius when it cools. Even in that tubing, not all are created equal. But I have done this with success!

That should help you out. You never ever ever want to allow your tubing to apply lateral force on your components, it can unseat a block slightly or even cause a leak.

When you're shopping for tubing, consider getting the 7/16" ID tube. It will fit onto 1/2" fittings very tightly, and does not reduce flow enough to get a measurable temp difference. The smaller diameter allows tighter bend radii also.
 
I only use clearflex 60 in my loops, has a tight bend radius and lasts a long time.
 
the best bend radius is that on primochill LRT tubing.

Hands down, it has the best bend radius.

And ive used:

Masterkleer
Feser
Tygon (god knows how many brands)
ClearFlex
Duralene

(even Ehiem Aquarium tubing from way back).
 
Put some gloves on, boil some water, dip the tubing into the hot water for 30-60 seconds, then bend that tubing? Just a thought. Beats me if it will actually work. I use the uber expensive Tygon silver tubing myself.
 
Using Hair Dryer to soften up the tubing was once suggested by somebody , so thats another option , but keep in mind after you heat up the tubing it might collapse , some zip ties in affected area will help fix that .
 
I love Primochill LRT.

+1. There is no need for any other tubing IMO. I use the black stuff to protect my distilled mix from sunlight. More flexible than the "premium" brands and less expensive. I get mine at Performance PC's.
 
everyone has already covered the using heat to help out method but this also illustrates why some people like 7/16th tube so much. (need heat for setting the tube on barbs as well most times)
 
It's good to see LRT getting some play finally. 4-months and it's still as clear as day 1 and hasn't generated any precipitates that I can see. It isn't the ONLY tubing for every application, but it's damned good AND it's made in the USA too. :attn:
 
I use 7/16" ID tubing now as well. Here's my trick for getting 7/16" tubing on to 1/2" barbs without heat:

Chew on the tubing

It gets the mechanical softening from the biting and the heat from your body heat. Make sure it is clean tubing of course. Although, this may not mesh with the anti-microbial situation.:shrug:

OK - You can achieve the same results by repeatedly squeezing the tubing end with pliers as well. You get the heating from the deformation. Be careful of course to not damage the tubing.
 
I use 7/16" ID tubing now as well. Here's my trick for getting 7/16" tubing on to 1/2" barbs without heat:

Chew on the tubing

It gets the mechanical softening from the biting and the heat from your body heat. Make sure it is clean tubing of course. Although, this may not mesh with the anti-microbial situation.:shrug:

OK - You can achieve the same results by repeatedly squeezing the tubing end with pliers as well. You get the heating from the deformation. Be careful of course to not damage the tubing.

hahaha, I'm going to have to try this.
 
I use 7/16" ID tubing now as well. Here's my trick for getting 7/16" tubing on to 1/2" barbs without heat:

Chew on the tubing

It gets the mechanical softening from the biting and the heat from your body heat. Make sure it is clean tubing of course. Although, this may not mesh with the anti-microbial situation.:shrug:

OK - You can achieve the same results by repeatedly squeezing the tubing end with pliers as well. You get the heating from the deformation. Be careful of course to not damage the tubing.

I do this from the inside with thick pliers or scissors. Just stretch it out for a bit.
 
Awesome, i boiled the few pieces that had to make sharp turns and it really helped. I made the mistake of boiling a piece with the barb on and the tubing stretched to the barb size and made it a lot easier to remove. I double zip tied it just in case and I'm leak testing it ATM.
 
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