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STASIS NVX.1 Geforce 6800/7800 Waterblock

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From this angle you can see just how much surface area these pins provide for heat transfer. Also, this gives a good look at the silver solder joint - the seal provided by this process is absolute and will outlast any application this part will ever see.
 

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Well there you have it. Shipping parts will include some pretty slick graphics on the shroud.

I hope you guys like it - I've lost a lot of sleep over this one trying to get everything just right! :p
 
Why is it 2 pieces ? And what gurantees it can not leak where the GPU insert and the rest of the block are connected ?
 
My reasoning for using a forged part (manufactured by Intricast) is based on several reasons:

-Achieve maximum cooling surface area, utilizing a pin pattern not machineable by conventional methods.
-Create a part with as thin a base as possible while still maintaining tight tolerances.
-Avoid the excess "girth" typical of machined, full cover waterblocks without sacrifcing cooling capacity.

Additionally, by utilizing this strategy of using a insert seperate from the base, it can be hand lapped to 5 microns, something that cannot be achieved from a one piece design due to the difference in height between the GPU contact plane and the RAM contact plane.

The end result is a full cover block that outperforms all competing solutions while weighing as little as half as much. Using the forged pin array insert allows for exponentially more cooling surface area where it's needed, along with a thinner base (a key for watercooling performance) accross all planes.

As for the manufacturing methods employed when forged components are not used, an arbor of ganged slither saws making two angled passes is the most common means. However, as we've seen of late with Swiftech's Apogee parts, the residual mess of shavings and burrs resulting from the cutting process is less than desirable.

How can I guarantee it doesn't leak? By applying aggressive flux and premium silver solder to the surfaces prior to annealing the two components in a furnace. :cool:
This process bonds the two copper components at a molecular level - and the gap it is filling is about 1/100th of an inch as each components is machined and deburred prior to the procedure.
 
Ok you for saw my next question then :) (it does use anothers heat sink)

What do you do to ensure the heat sink is perfectly placed correctly for height,and squarness...As well as make sure the heat used to bond it does not alter this fitting ? ?

I understand cost effectivness reasons for 2 pieces just curious how it all comes together to provide the quality I am sure is required for perfetct core contact as well as ram chips while maintaining a leek proof assembly..
 
Well, like I said above the two components are machined to tolerance prior to the process. Then they are loaded in a calibrated "jig" and checked using a depth guage prior to being placed in the furnace. The heat control is run via a digital program calibrated to prevent overheating/warping of the elements.

After the parts are fused they are once again checked for squareness/flatness, though this time using a computerized dimensioning machine (target tolerances are 1/1000th of an inch). :eek:
 
Captain Slug said:
Or don't. All of the plastics that come in clear won't be as durable or easy to machine as Acetal/Delrin.
Using Delrin provides a far more durable block. It seals with much less effort and can handle way more compression without cracking so you'll never have to do anything more complicated than putting teflon tape on your fittings.

I'm not terribly impressed with anything Stasis has made yet.


I'll second that. Clear top, no way. Besides, Unless you are a contortionist who can stick their head between the bottom of their case and the bottom of their vid card, what is the point for a clear top? You only see the goodies inside before you install the card anyway, and for that you could easily check pictures on the web if your curious.
 
consumer9000 said:
Here's a look at the inside of the white Delrin body with the Silicone O-Ring installed.
In addition to the O-Ring, Silicone sealant is applied prior to assembly to essentially guarantee a leak free unit.


Quick question,,This Acetal/Delrin material...

Is it possible for it to get stress cracks in it ? And how much more likely is that to happen over say a metel top ?

I ask because I see threaded holes almost on top of the rubber seal and within the waters circulation area.And am curious just what effects the close promixity of such Machining and clamping forces could have on the tops ability to hold a seal. Also would the copper experience expansion and contraction as it operated ? And what if any effect could this have on this area of the blocks construction in the long run ?

And last question what is the warranty if the seal leaked due to block failure
 
CCUABIDExORxDIE said:
im doubting acetel/delrin would crack...look at the maze4's with the delrin tops and the swiftech Storms acetel top. you really never see those crack.

I looked at the storm,,I looked at maze..I still see a difference,There fastener holes are OUTSIDE the seal and would have to crack completely past it to affect a leak,NOW I could be wrong but here we have the holes really close and within the water side of the block meaning any crack from hole to seal Chanel can undermine the seal.

I am just curious it is not a big deal but an observation that may or may not have any merit.I just don't want to assume machining that close and on that side of the water has 0% chance of minute cracking during maching or during the many expansion and contraction cycles it will experience unless I am told it cant crack..
 
ahhh, so your worried about it being worn down overtime and cracking from stress because of the placement of the screws. in that case im not 100%, but id still go out on a limb and say acetel and delrin are strong enough not to crack.

i guess we will hafta wait for an answer from Consumer and Stasis themselves.
 
Delrin/Acetal is very resistant to fatigue and stress cracking, as it's mechanical resilience is second to none. You are welcome to research the material on your own and you'll come to the same conclusion.

As for the threaded points inside of the sealed region - they are sealed with Silicone sealant upon assembly. The design is not intended to require/nor be user servicable. Early test units did not even have the silicone O-Ring as the two surfaces are machined flat to within 1/1000th of one another, making the gap necessary to be sealed nominal. However, just to be safe, we added the secondary silicone o-ring seal as a final precaution. :)
 
consumer9000 said:
Delrin/Acetal is very resistant to fatigue and stress cracking, as it's mechanical resilience is second to none.
Being the resident plastic-obsessed member I will echo this.
Delrin had similar mechanical properties to Nylon with much lower moisture absorbance. It's a perfect top material and is a soft and extremely wear resistant plastic. The only materials that could possibly outperform it would be metals such as brass or copper.

And my questions:
1. Were there specific reasons you went with a round pin design over a much more cost effective and similarly performing 45-degree diamond pattern? A diamond pattern would be quite easy to make with a slitting saw.
2. Do you have the equipment required to braze the GPU section onto the base piece instead of using silver solder?

I'm quite pleased with the fact that you used medium blasting to give the finished block an even finish. That's not something I've seen anyone else do before.
 
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I ordered the SLI version

It didn't said, but I assumed that it should come in as a pair. :p
 
will the mounting rods on this actually be long enough to mount the cooler this time round? as my replacement stasis air cooler turned up for my 7800gtx and the rods on it STILL arent long enough to actually pass thru the card and properly mount it....its sat on my desk as a very expensive paper weight after i gave up on it entirely :(
 
MoreGooder said:
I'll second that. Clear top, no way. Besides, Unless you are a contortionist who can stick their head between the bottom of their case and the bottom of their vid card, what is the point for a clear top? You only see the goodies inside before you install the card anyway, and for that you could easily check pictures on the web if your curious.
Some of us run BTX style cases. It is nice being able to see the fancy shiny things you install with just a quick glance :D A clear top would be kinda cool, but I wouldn't care either way, as long as the performance was good.
 
Vrykyl said:
will the mounting rods on this actually be long enough to mount the cooler this time round? as my replacement stasis air cooler turned up for my 7800gtx and the rods on it STILL arent long enough to actually pass thru the card and properly mount it....its sat on my desk as a very expensive paper weight after i gave up on it entirely :(


"Post reported to a mod/admin for review" not for content, but to look at situation.
 
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