STASIS NVX.1 Geforce 6800/7800 Waterblock

[consumer9000]

To address Vrykyl's concern, I was unaware that he had any issues with his replacement unit - nobody else has had problems of that nature with identical parts. I would like him to PM me with pictures if he is still interested.

Now, back on topic - Captain Slug raised some good points:

Why the use of a more expensive, forged round pin part?
-It outperforms the crosscut pattern in this application, while sustaining less pressure drop. The machining operation required to make the crosscut can be quite messy, especially as the tooling dulls.

As for the second question about solder/brazing - these parts are "brazed" together in a furnace, using brazing flux and silver brazing solder/rod. The annealing process presents the perfect opportunity for this joint to be formed.

 

[crimedog]

hey consumer i sent you an email but thought i might as well ask here as others might have the same question.
do you include 90-degree barbs as well as straight barbs?

 

[Ub3r-L33ch]

hey consumer i sent you an email but thought i might as well ask here as others might have the same question.
do you include 90-degree barbs as well as straight barbs?

Yeah I'm interested in that as well.

Also, someone should post a review when they get it

 

[Seven7Thirty30]

$12.99 for USPS Priority Mail? Ever heard of Flat Rate shipping for $7.70 anywhere in the U.S.? The boxes are free too. I'm impressed with the water block, but at a total cost of over $160....I'm reluctant to dish out that kind of money for something that really hasn't had any real world testing outside of Stasis.

 

[Vrykyl]

To address Vrykyl's concern, I was unaware that he had any issues with his replacement unit - nobody else has had problems of that nature with identical parts. I would like him to PM me with pictures if he is still interested.

Pictures will follow as soon as possible Consumer.

In the mean time I would like to direct potential buyers attention here briefly -
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=4262501#post4262501
So that they can make an informed decision when buying these blocks, and ANY hardware from any company on these forums, not just stasis.

 

[rogerdugans]

I don't know consumer9000, nor have I used any of his products, but one of the folks here asked my opinion on the solder joint, knowing that I work with stuff like that and I though I'd post my opinion for everyone.

Using a cheap content solder and any flux at all will get you a joint that will easily last 10 or 20 years in household plumbing. And that is with a handheld torch that relies on individual skill.

A skilled plumber/pipefitter using high silver content solder and a high quality flux can do joints that will last 50+ years with the same handheld torch. The copper may not last that long.

With the parts in a jig and even heating throughout the furnace soldering process, I would have to think the solder joint will be very good, and unlikely to have a problem for the life of the computer builder, much less the computer.


I can't speak to the quality or individual products, but I WILL say that the solder joint between pieces if done as well as claimed, is unlikely to ever be a problem.

I also think that anyone who has gone to these lengths is pretty unlikely to start cutting corners at the end, when it is time to solder the stuff.

Edit-
These blocks look good enough to almost convince me to get a video card deserving of one.
Not quite, but almost. I really am cheap, eh?

 

[KC41165]

Did anybody receive this order?

I ordered it last week. But it haven't been shipped yet.

 

[crimedog]

I ordered it last week. But it haven't been shipped yet.

usps recieved electronic notification on the 28th for mine, but their tracking doesn't show any updates

 

[diehrd]

A few at H ordered as well , so if it is made after payment you may have to wait a few days I suspect . .

 

[crimedog]

got my waterblock, want to cry.
waiting on consumer's response.
my immediete thought was the black rubber washers must be causing a problem but they seem to be glued/siliconed on.

edit: problem solved, read on

 

[Luftwaffle]

Oh man, that sucks... So, it's contacting the memory fine, but not the die? It looks like the chip on top isn't getting full contact either...

 

[Voodoo Rufus]

Two possibilities I can see. Either the core slug is sunken too far into the block, or the mounting has not been tightened enough.

 

[crimedog]

it's not making good contact with the memory either.

block is tightened down more than sufficiently

i'd think it would make good contact without those black rubbery washers but they're glued on there good and i dont want to break some kind of seal or anything

 

[consumer9000]

Please check your emails.

Each block was hand fitted and mounted to a board for testing prior to shipment.

The problem you are encountering is due to inadequate tightening of the nuts, as the rubber bumpers need to be compressed several mm to allow full contact. This helps to prevent the core from being damaged without serious misuse.

 

[crimedog]

just got a call from matt and the rubber washers are just prevention for cracking the core so i'm shucking them now

 

[crimedog]

here it is after removing the rubber washers:


both times i had it cranked way down, so i'd expect other people to have problems with it as well. make sure you check your contact before running your card!

now that i have it running i think it's a great block. everything i anticipated. there are a couple of minor shortcomings, hopefully matt will amend these in the future:

mounting! dangerden has the best, i recommend stealing from them. a lexan backplate is good, but it shouldn't bend. this would require longer rods. the size of the locking nuts is ok, you can turn them with your fingers. the nuts are ridiculous though. going at those with needle nose pliers is asking for trouble, one slip and you're scraping components off your pcb. i substituted my dangerden brass nuts from 6800 mounting hardware.

barbs. these nylon ones pretty much suck. even with 7/16" tubing i was getting leaks, had to break out the hose clamps. again, steal from dangerden. not only are their design the best (low flow, short, good seal to tubing) they have an o-ring instead of silicone sealant. the advantage being if you break the seal by accident you can just tighten the barb down instead of having to take it out and reapply sealant.

those are my suggestions for you matt, i understand you're just getting started and i'm sure your future watercooling products will include these minor adjustments. dangerden for instance has going through many variations of mounting hardware and barbs with their products, i'm just hoping you can skip right up to the best

 

[crimedog]

that's my autodetect settings, card is unmodded at the moment

 

[CCUABIDExORxDIE]

wow, those temps are IMPRESSIVE! looks like once this block gets all it tweaks done to it to perfect it, we will have a DD killer.

 

[consumer9000]

Very nice temperatures! I appreciate the input, and will be reevaluating the use of the rubber bumpers. The barbs definitely are designed to be used with hoseclamps (which are included) though I'll look into some different ones in the future.
As for the mounting hardware, I'll have bug my supplier and see if they can come up with some more user friendly nuts and such.

 

[thegreek]

crimedog, can you show us pics of it installed?