How do I shutdown automatically instead of hibernate or sleep?

[wagex]

If it's not too much trouble for you, would you open this pdf file and take a quick look to see which power values should be changed from default?

View attachment 171070

page 3-25
c1e support - enabled
speed step - enabled
turbo mode - enabled
c-state tech - enabled
c-state package limit setting - auto it will appeare after c-state is enabled

 

[EarthDog]

Wow.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Wow.

Same.

 

[c627627]

Thank you wagex.

c1e support - enabled [No CHANGE - it was enabled]
speed step - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
turbo mode - enabled [N/A - Turbo Mode goes away on overclocked systems]
c-state tech - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
c-state package limit setting - auto it will appear after c-state is enabled [It appeared after c-state was enabled and set to Auto.]


I will redo the sleep test tonight based on wagex's recommendation.
If anyone else posts any other suggestion for me to test, I will post the results.

 

[wagex]

Thank you wagex.

c1e support - enabled [No CHANGE - it was enabled]
speed step - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
turbo mode - enabled [N/A - Turbo Mode goes away on overclocked systems]
c-state tech - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
c-state package limit setting - auto it will appear after c-state is enabled [It appeared after c-state was enabled and set to Auto.]


I will redo the sleep test tonight based on wagex's recommendation.
If anyone else posts any other suggestion for me to test, I will post the results.

ah yeah, i forgot to mention of overclocked it may or maynot cause stability issues depending.

 

[c627627]

This will allow me to take BIOS out of the equation, right?
I will use Windows 10 instead of Windows 8.0 tonight, so that's additional. I also have XP and Vista but I thought I would do Windows 10 as best test choice.

I don't know if/how I can use my True RMS Digital Multimeter to confirm my Kill A Watt P4460 measurements if they don't change tonight?
I will also only measure the computer and not the Monitor, just to take an additional variable out.

 

[EarthDog]

Thank you wagex.

c1e support - enabled [No CHANGE - it was enabled]
speed step - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
turbo mode - enabled [N/A - Turbo Mode goes away on overclocked systems]
c-state tech - enabled [CHANGED - it was disabled]
c-state package limit setting - auto it will appear after c-state is enabled [It appeared after c-state was enabled and set to Auto.]


I will redo the sleep test tonight based on wagex's recommendation.
If anyone else posts any other suggestion for me to test, I will post the results.

Speedstep, C1E, and turbo are non 'sleep' items (affects clocks in windows). C state tech and package limit setting are sleep based functions.

Different CPUs have different levels of Cstates it can go into (LINK). So each PC will vary on its power savings levels. This motherboard is on all auto so everything it has should be enabled.

I'm curious though if you averages 131W in sleep, what is your IDLE wattage? This is why I asked about if your meter could read watts (which, with respect, its your meter...so Im not reading your guide to tell you how to use your meter). Does it read watts live? If so, see what your PC wattage is at idle. For the record, my system stays at 4-4.2Ghz(stock and turbo) and doesn't lower the clocks or voltage.

 

[c627627]

I posted what it displays when you press the Menu key and in addition to it I posted the link to it.
http://www.p3international.com/manuals/p4460_manual.pdf

It turns out you are supposed to press another button to get it to display watts.
I rebooted into Windows 8 and it shows 190 watts. I set it to go sleep mode in 1 minute and when it did go into sleep mode it read 8 watts.

Then I went to BIOS and set the settings back to what they were previous to how wagex kindly told me to change them.


Repeated the experiment and this time the sleep mode wattage was also 8 watts proving that BIOS settings had no effect on the sleep mode.


Originally I read the time since reset and I read KWH used over night:
In 8 hours 33 minutes, the computer+monitor system used up 1.12 KWH in sleep mode

It says it is drawing 8 watts in sleep mode but it said last night it drew 1.12 KWH in 8.5 hours of sleep mode.
I can repeat the same experiment tonight on Windows 10 and I can revert BIOS settings to what wagex said to.

What else would you suggest?

 

[wagex]

I posted what it displays when you press the Menu key and in addition to it I posted the link to it.
http://www.p3international.com/manuals/p4460_manual.pdf

It turns out you are supposed to press another button to get it to display watts.
I rebooted into Windows 8 and it shows 190 watts. I set it to go sleep mode in 1 minute and when it did go into sleep mode it read 8 watts.

Then I went to BIOS and set the settings back to what they were previous to how wagex kindly told me to change them.


Repeated the experiment and this time the sleep mode wattage was also 8 watts proving that BIOS settings had no effect on the sleep mode.


Originally I read the time since reset and I read KWH used over night:
In 8 hours 33 minutes, the computer+monitor system used up 1.12 KWH in sleep mode

It says it is drawing 8 watts in sleep mode but it said last night it drew 1.12 KWH in 8.5 hours of sleep mode.
I can repeat the same experiment tonight on Windows 10 and I can revert BIOS settings to what wagex said to.

What else would you suggest?

i didnt really think about it, but the bios settings i had you change would only effect it idling speed / wattage not asleep my bad :\

 

[EarthDog]

Glad you looked and found it.

Yeah, not sure what happened to your rig last night that it managed to average 131W, but, that clearly isn't right. Since we have your 8W value, we can surely figure out the yearly cost just from that. I believe the cstates are only for windows idle, but not certain on that...the document i linked didn't specify.

As far as my system goes, I accidentally used it, but after 2 hours, it showed .02. kWh. So I was around that 5W number the entire time it seems.

What else would you suggest?

I think case closed. I believe the OP has enough information on power savings (my rig is very similar to his). To me, seems like sleep is fine as its literally $4 per year if it sleeps 16 hours /day. But he said he was an extreme power saver so... he may still power off. I don't want to see anything from ya that would help this thread. It would be more of a curiosity as to what is going on with your readings (which is best for another thread.. if you want to start one, I will swing by and assist).

EDIT: I would be curious to see how the different windows handles sleep modes... however, I doubt it will be any different. Once you figure out your high readings, you should then just be able to do what I did and see the wattage draw quickly and not have to wait all night.

 

[c627627]

I think we made progress because I was directed to look at watts and not KWH.

First of all, this is 100% relevant to this thread because it shows the advantages of powering off your system due to the notoriously unstable nature of Windows Sleep Mode.


The reason it helped looking at Watts display is because when I directed Windows 10 to go into slepp mode after 1 minute, it appeared to do so but the Watt draw was only 20 watts lower, it was 255 watts vs. 274 watts on idle.

I then noticed all the fans are still on so what appeared to be sleep mode was not full sleep mode.
Earlier in Windows 8 when I read 8 watts, EVERYTHING appeared to go quiet, the fans and all.

Then I remembered that what I just witnessed Windows 10 do, that is what happened last night on Windows 8 too - the fans were still running and I bet you if I looked at the Watts displayed - it would have not read 8 watts!



So the historically buggy Sleep Mode sometimes goes into full sleep, sometimes only the monitor switches off giving you the illusion of the sleep mode, that is what happened to me.

I am guessing 1.12 KWH in 8 hours and 33 minutes I tested last night probably corresponds to a 255-274 watt draw?


I do not use the sleep mode because I always heard how buggy it was. My fancy Logitech mouse did not start functioning after I just woke Windows 10 up from that fake sleep mode either...


So having a fully functional sleep mode 100% of the time, yes the cost is negligent. Dollar fiddy a year.
But if your sleep mode sometimes works 100% and sometimes not - just as I tested it to on my machine, then powering off is the only sure way to save (in my case) fifty bucks a year. $500 over ten years.

 

[EarthDog]

First of all, this is 100% relevant to this thread

If you say so...

Then I remembered that what I just witnessed Windows 10 do, that is what happened last night on Windows 8 too - the fans were still running and I bet you if I looked at the Watts displayed - it would have not read 8 watts!

Depending on how many fans, and their rating, it can be several watts for sure... though not remotely close to making a 131W average. My fans shut down when it is in sleep. On both PCs (W7 and W10, Z170 and X99 respectively)

I am guessing 1.12 KWH in 8 hours and 33 minutes I tested last night probably corresponds to a 255-274 watt draw?

131W on average as we said a couple times earlier. Perhaps it was on at that wattage for a certain amount of time to cause that total and average? No idea... Do you have back ups or something that would knock it out of sleep.

Yes, sleep, as defined, is negligible. I mentioned that earlier, though its nice to see some actual numbers from a relevant system to the OP (mine). I have no idea why your sleep is borked. But I would call it the exception to the rule. The biggest problems with sleep were not w/e is going on with your PC, but how things come OUT of sleep.. as you or someone earlier mentioned, sometimes peripherals and such don't play nice with it. If sleep really is an option for the OP and he is as big a stickler as he says he is, he will take the time to get a KaW meter and see if he sleeps properly. I personally find that highly unnecessary though... but I don't care nearly as much about saving power on this scale (nor do I sleep anyway. SSDs FTW!).

 

[c627627]

No UPS.
Fans were just symbolic of the system not going to full sleep because they all shut down when I read 8 watts whereas they did not when I read 255 watts. It wasn't the fans themselves - just the fact that they did not go off, and other power drawing components obviously did not either - whereas the monitor did, creating the illusion of full sleep mode...

I tested the full sleep mode at 8 watts so the system can "catch it" it but obviously not all the time.


I would definitely agree with you that the majority of modern systems are able to enter full sleep mode.
Based on all these years on the forums, it is also not rare to see sleep mode issues, if only everyone had a way to measure the power draw, they could be certain their system is always 100% asleep overnight... I have nothing else to add, I think we figured out exactly what's going on, we just need the OP to post if the shut down option worked for those that choose to shut down over sleep for whatever reason.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

I'm still trying to figure out where this 255W number came from...

 

[EarthDog]

Yeah, he mentioned 190W idle earlier.. 255 has a load on it of some sort.

Also, backups = software backups...images... etc, not a UPS.

 

[c627627]

You can ask and I can clarify.

I switched on the Watt display just earlier today. Thank you EarthDog for that.
I rebooted into Windows 10.
It read somewhere around 274 W.
I set Windows 10 to go to sleep after 1 minute.
It did and the display dropped by 20 watts down to 255 watts.

The monitor was off giving the illusion of sleep mode.
But the fans were running and the wattage was displayed as 255 W.

It did not go to full sleep and neither did Windows 8 last night. Both times the monitor shut off but fans were running.


Also earlier today I ran an identical experiment on Windows 8. However that time IT DID go to full 8 watt sleep as symbolized by the fans going off. I also knew this because I switched away from KWH to the Watt display. Thank you EarthDog. Therefore the machine sometimes "catches" the full sleep mode and sometimes not. I then reminded you that the sleep mode is a historically unreliable Windows feature...

 

[EarthDog]

What was the 190w figure you quoted earlier?

 

[c627627]

As you know these things fluctuate. I may have been inside Windows 8 which I have used for a long time and idled around 200W.
I then rebooted into Windows 10 and there was probably more background activity with me in the middle of setting it up still so the readout was 274 W.

I think the relevant part is that full sleep mode goes down to 8 watts.
Incomplete sleep mode, a bug really, turns off the monitor but does not put (all other) components to sleep and reduced the registered wattage by about 20 watts.

So at the time of my Windows 10 test, I was at 274 W and incomplete sleep mode put it at 255 W.
At the time of one of my Windows 8 tests, I was at 190 W.


The big picture is clear though. Successful sleep mode drops my power consumption to 8 watts - $1.50 a year. Whereas unsuccessful sleep mode drops it by about 20 watts from whatever it is on when fully powered ON be it 190 watts or 274 watts, turning off the monitor and I don't know what else, if anything else.


So the confusion is due to my testing on multiple OS I have installed on my multi boot system. Sorry if I wasn't clear.

 

[EarthDog]

It's just odd to see such a variance. I was within a couple watts between 7 and 10. The installations are remarkably similar with what is installed/running etc.

 

[c627627]

I do not know what was running in the background. I can boot into each of the OS and post the wattage if you want and get more exact figures and correct those figures. I don't want to do that but I could do it for you?