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OC'ing FX-6300 Tonight...
- Thread starter Sun Tzu
- Start date
Right, I think your best course of action is to go back the last P95 stable setting and start from there. Are you keeping notes? Those can be incredibly valuable when finding different stable settings. I'm still going back to my notes from last year just to answer the question...Did I try "X"? So from you last stable OC please post your cpu tabs and HWMonitor under Prime95 and let us see if we can walk up up a bit.
- Thread Starter
- #143
The last shots I posted were of my last "stable" OC. The 4.4GHz at 55C and a 3.65 Vcore. My problem here is, any bump I make from here (multiplier, FSB, Vcore, etc) results in instability and/or temps that raise above 62C.
I'm not entirely sure what stable settings in P95 are...is this something I can adjust? Generally when I see "Worker stopped" it tells me that the maximum number of warnings has been reached. Occasionally, I will see "hardware failure" or some-such; however, if there are settings I can adjust that better suit my rig, I will happily make that adjustment as soon as I get home.
Last night I briefly tried to bump my Multi up to 18, thereby giving me a 4.55GHz clock in combo with a 1.392 vCore, and I crashed in P95 *AND* my temps jumped above 62C.
I like the idea of scaling back and taking this in incremental steps, however...what should I scale back? The HT frequency? I bumped it from 2000 to 2600 just from reading through multiple other threads on here. I dropped my CPU_NB freq to stock 2000MHz, and the voltage down to 1.75.
When I get home, I can try the settings priller suggested (listed below)...if everyone here feels like it's a good direction to go.
I'm not entirely sure what stable settings in P95 are...is this something I can adjust? Generally when I see "Worker stopped" it tells me that the maximum number of warnings has been reached. Occasionally, I will see "hardware failure" or some-such; however, if there are settings I can adjust that better suit my rig, I will happily make that adjustment as soon as I get home.
Last night I briefly tried to bump my Multi up to 18, thereby giving me a 4.55GHz clock in combo with a 1.392 vCore, and I crashed in P95 *AND* my temps jumped above 62C.
I like the idea of scaling back and taking this in incremental steps, however...what should I scale back? The HT frequency? I bumped it from 2000 to 2600 just from reading through multiple other threads on here. I dropped my CPU_NB freq to stock 2000MHz, and the voltage down to 1.75.
When I get home, I can try the settings priller suggested (listed below)...if everyone here feels like it's a good direction to go.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
I think the best course of action is to set the HT/NB/FSB and Ram back to default what ever that is and start again. Set the CPU and NB LLC to high and work up with just the multiplier at first , you can start where you left off since you know the CPU was relatively stable at 4.4 with 1.365v. Leave all the other stuff out until you reach your Multi/heat/voltage limits. Also go into the monitoring section and set the CPU fans on turbo to make sure you're getting your maximum cooling for now.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
Pretty much inline with "Johan45's" post above...
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If you go back to "Sun Tzu's" post #136 and look you will see that he seems to have one or more of the green settings still enabled since CPUz Cpu Tab shows the multiplier as 7 to 20.5. The 'green stuff' is most often better all OFF until an overclock is pretty much stabilized.
I also see that the 'real used' Vcore seems to be 1.404Volts and n0t 1.365ish that is mentioned in his other threads. Not sure if that is from using the highest CPU_LLC setting or what.
Okay while I was writing the above starring at his post #136, something just came to mind. A few months ago we had another user in this forum section that had the Noctua D-14 and that user had similar problems with using a Noc D-14. We all went around and around with that setup since it always seemed to give high temps n0 matter what we tried to help him with. Wish I could remember who in the heck that was. Dang wish I could remember that user's name.
I also glanced at the cpu type and see it is an FX-6300 that Sun Tzu is using. Looking back on my testing of C_D's loaner FX-6300, I was never pleased with that cpu. It took a good bit more Vcore right in the mid-range of overclocking, which is like 4.3Ghz-ish, than I expected. Then by the time it reached 4.8Ghz it was requiring a l0t more Vcore than my FX-8350 cpu.
So based on what I now remember about some FX-6300s and at least one odd happening with a D-14 Cpu cooler...he should clear the CMOS to make sure his settings go back to full default and then adjust 'nothing' but the Cpu Multiplier and the voltage to the cpu to raise the cpu speed and get a clear and known baseline to work from instead of jumping around from one thing to the next and losing sight of the process. PLUS before beginning to overclock using the multiplier, he needs to DISABLE > APM > C1/E > C6 > TurboCore > Cool n Quiet > Go into Windows Power management and Enable the Performance Mode. One last thing and not sure which version of Sabertooth he has but Enable HPC in bios also.
When all of that is done accurately, then begin to raise the cpu speed with the cpu multiplier and test for at least 20 mins of P95 Blend mode and then attach all 4 screen captures we ask for to this thread. Yes of course raise the Vcore in order to stabilize the overclock as necessary inline with max voltages and temps.
RGone...
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If you go back to "Sun Tzu's" post #136 and look you will see that he seems to have one or more of the green settings still enabled since CPUz Cpu Tab shows the multiplier as 7 to 20.5. The 'green stuff' is most often better all OFF until an overclock is pretty much stabilized.
I also see that the 'real used' Vcore seems to be 1.404Volts and n0t 1.365ish that is mentioned in his other threads. Not sure if that is from using the highest CPU_LLC setting or what.
Okay while I was writing the above starring at his post #136, something just came to mind. A few months ago we had another user in this forum section that had the Noctua D-14 and that user had similar problems with using a Noc D-14. We all went around and around with that setup since it always seemed to give high temps n0 matter what we tried to help him with. Wish I could remember who in the heck that was. Dang wish I could remember that user's name.
I also glanced at the cpu type and see it is an FX-6300 that Sun Tzu is using. Looking back on my testing of C_D's loaner FX-6300, I was never pleased with that cpu. It took a good bit more Vcore right in the mid-range of overclocking, which is like 4.3Ghz-ish, than I expected. Then by the time it reached 4.8Ghz it was requiring a l0t more Vcore than my FX-8350 cpu.
So based on what I now remember about some FX-6300s and at least one odd happening with a D-14 Cpu cooler...he should clear the CMOS to make sure his settings go back to full default and then adjust 'nothing' but the Cpu Multiplier and the voltage to the cpu to raise the cpu speed and get a clear and known baseline to work from instead of jumping around from one thing to the next and losing sight of the process. PLUS before beginning to overclock using the multiplier, he needs to DISABLE > APM > C1/E > C6 > TurboCore > Cool n Quiet > Go into Windows Power management and Enable the Performance Mode. One last thing and not sure which version of Sabertooth he has but Enable HPC in bios also.
When all of that is done accurately, then begin to raise the cpu speed with the cpu multiplier and test for at least 20 mins of P95 Blend mode and then attach all 4 screen captures we ask for to this thread. Yes of course raise the Vcore in order to stabilize the overclock as necessary inline with max voltages and temps.
RGone...
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
If I'm not mistaken I think this is the thread you were looking for RGone, his name was Blozz
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
It seems that IS his second thread and what I was looking for based on that very first capture of HWMonitor and that Max of 64c on the cpu/socket temps. Now I got to go read it and see if there was ever a fix. I think that thread is 8 pages and not sure we ever did fix that Noc D-14.
Thanks "johan".
Bobert....
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
Ah hah, I do seem to think that I said it had no coolant in the heat pipe cooling tubes.
Yeah "Blozz" just had to reach a make-do speed with his NH D-14. I am beginning to think we may have another one like "Blozz". CrapOLA.
RGone...ster.
- Thread Starter
- #151
Alright...F this crap. Almost every day I've heard someone telling me "you'll never reach X on air...with liquid on the other hand..."
I'm just going to buy a liquid cooling system and install it on Friday. Any recommendations on something that will work with my FX-6300 AM3+? Money isn't an issue here.
I'm just going to buy a liquid cooling system and install it on Friday. Any recommendations on something that will work with my FX-6300 AM3+? Money isn't an issue here.
Get something like h100 unless you wanna go "pro" and build yourself custom loop in which case you need to study couple of days and build your loop Friday after next.
Getting liquid cooling doesn't mean you reach high overclocks. It just keeps the temps down further up the road.
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2014
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Check this out..
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cpu_cooler_roundup_2013_q1_review,11.html
The Noctua is a beast, I wouldn't go to Corsair.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/cpu_cooler_roundup_2013_q1_review,11.html
The Noctua is a beast, I wouldn't go to Corsair.
According to Frosty-tech the H100 is about 2c cooler. If that's worth additional $ and Maintenance to you then I'd say go for it. Just don't expect the world. I understand your frustration and sometimes things don't go as planned...and sometimes new parts are defective. I'm not saying yours is, but it is always a possibility. I hate saying it but throwing money at a situation wont necessarily solve it either. Just like throwing volts at a CPU isn't the end all be all. However you choose to proceed we'll be here to help you through it.
Edit: Here's Frosty-tech's top 5 H20 AIO's.
Edit: Here's Frosty-tech's top 5 H20 AIO's.
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- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Location
- Clearwater FL
If you're going AIO get one with a real rad on it or just get a NH-D14.
*edit* just came in and saw that you're RMA'ing it, I think you're maybe trying too hard unless you're going custom water, if you're going there maybe a bit of research is in order.
We're all a little obsessive about our builds in here in various degrees, but there comes a point where out lay of $$$$ versus return plays a part and tweaking what you have.
Unless you have a trust fund I guess from you're family I guess, which I don't.
*edit* just came in and saw that you're RMA'ing it, I think you're maybe trying too hard unless you're going custom water, if you're going there maybe a bit of research is in order.
We're all a little obsessive about our builds in here in various degrees, but there comes a point where out lay of $$$$ versus return plays a part and tweaking what you have.
Unless you have a trust fund I guess from you're family I guess, which I don't.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2012
- Location
- Ankeny Iowa
I have good water and I still cant get as high as others
These chips are a crap shoot, some scale up higher better
I was able to go 500mhz more on custom overkill water setup
These chips are a crap shoot, some scale up higher better
I was able to go 500mhz more on custom overkill water setup
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
Hey I don't care how one spends their money...
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Just some examples. I wanted to get a page with a number of choices. There are others likely. I put my own together piece by piece. But those shown are representative of better kits. And better than AiO.
http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolkit.html
You see those kits that are from about $150.00 Usd to about $190.00 Usd? If I was going to throw any money at watercooling to get the cpu to go faster, it would be with something like one of those kits at a minimum. Not one of those AiO watercoolers. All in One is just not going to do much better than a good air cooler. Not so it is worth ditching the NH D-14. Yes I know you are RMAing it but you are not waiting on it to come back to see if it is 'then' okay. I would buy a cheap cpu cooler like the CM 212 EVO or similar to use until the NH D-14 comes back
OR if you are going to water come h*ll or high water it would be better water than AiO stuff.
RGone...
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Just some examples. I wanted to get a page with a number of choices. There are others likely. I put my own together piece by piece. But those shown are representative of better kits. And better than AiO.
http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolkit.html
You see those kits that are from about $150.00 Usd to about $190.00 Usd? If I was going to throw any money at watercooling to get the cpu to go faster, it would be with something like one of those kits at a minimum. Not one of those AiO watercoolers. All in One is just not going to do much better than a good air cooler. Not so it is worth ditching the NH D-14. Yes I know you are RMAing it but you are not waiting on it to come back to see if it is 'then' okay. I would buy a cheap cpu cooler like the CM 212 EVO or similar to use until the NH D-14 comes back
OR if you are going to water come h*ll or high water it would be better water than AiO stuff.
RGone...
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
No maybe you have n0t yet gotten as high as some others but if you keep hanging around these wild Rodeo Clowns that frequent the "putzen" thread, you will be one of two things. Nuts or faster. Hehehe. No make that three things. The two named already and the other is poorer in pocket book.
I remember when you got here. You have never paniced or throw rocks at yore shett. You just put your nose to the grinding wheel and ground it on out until you have some nice speeds and all.
RGone...ster.
I have a XSPC RS360 kit cooling my FX-8350 and I couldn't be happier with it although I pretty sure you can only fit a 240mm radiator into your Obsidian. You might consider an XSPC RS240 --- http://www.xoxide.com/xspc-rasa750rs240-watercoolingkit.html
or a Swifttech H220 (Not a kit) http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h220-liquid-cooling-system.html
or a Swifttech H220 (Not a kit) http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h220-liquid-cooling-system.html
