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OC'ing FX-6300 Tonight...
- Thread starter Sun Tzu
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2012
- Location
- Ankeny Iowa
No maybe you have n0t yet gotten as high as some others but if you keep hanging around these wild Rodeo Clowns that frequent the "putzen" thread, you will be one of two things. Nuts or faster. Hehehe. No make that three things. The two named already and the other is poorer in pocket book.
I remember when you got here. You have never paniced or throw rocks at yore shett. You just put your nose to the grinding wheel and ground it on out until you have some nice speeds and all.
RGone...ster.
Thats because Im a mechanic I fix it or make it where it will never run
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
No maybe you have n0t yet gotten as high as some others but if you keep hanging around these wild Rodeo Clowns that frequent the "putzen" thread, you will be one of two things. Nuts or faster. Hehehe. No make that three things. The two named already and the other is poorer in pocket book.
I remember when you got here. You have never paniced or throw rocks at yore shett. You just put your nose to the grinding wheel and ground it on out until you have some nice speeds and all.
RGone...ster.
I'm not sure if that's good or bad RGone??
But I think it's fairly accurate, some of us have been pushing each other for a while and it has been a bit of a journey. My pocket book has survived and is on hiatus ATM
On the oher hand the itch only gets worse for more , then more's not enough. It's a terrible vicious circle that never really ends.So Grasshopper if you can snatch these pebbles from my hand you are ready
I do agree RGone, Sun you need to take a step back for a second and really figure out what you want and what you've got. We don't know at this point if it's a bad Cooler or just a hot CPU. If you intend on going with water since you just want higher clocks then by all means go ahead but in the end you'll probably not gain a whole lot for a day to day clock since the required voltage will probably climb quickly at this point and won't be CPU friendly at speeds like 5.0. So what I'm saying is you might gain 500 MHz or you might gain 300 it's too hard to tell.
I heard something about that too but allthesame they are listed on xoxide.com, so I'm not sure....
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
AFIK that was only temporary and they are back in circulation now.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
"johan" I knew this thread was reminding me of another and you linked it in an earlier post and I just went and read thru the whole jumble of parts and money thrown at the high temps situation that "Blozz" was facing.
He dumped his case and his NH D-14. Don't know which case he got but he changed out the NH D-14 for a Corsair H-80. Of course we all pretty much know that is not a good enough cooler for our types of buzz over 5.0Ghz benches etc. BUT the case change and the change to AiO cooler and THEN putting an 80mm fan blowing directly onto the VRMs and another 80mm drawing air off the rear of the cpu socket got him pretty well off. His last post of the 8 pages was him saying he was happy at a 4.7Ghz-ish stable.
I had forgotten the outcome of "Blozz's" situation but he seemed to get some relief afterall.
RGone...
He dumped his case and his NH D-14. Don't know which case he got but he changed out the NH D-14 for a Corsair H-80. Of course we all pretty much know that is not a good enough cooler for our types of buzz over 5.0Ghz benches etc. BUT the case change and the change to AiO cooler and THEN putting an 80mm fan blowing directly onto the VRMs and another 80mm drawing air off the rear of the cpu socket got him pretty well off. His last post of the 8 pages was him saying he was happy at a 4.7Ghz-ish stable.
I had forgotten the outcome of "Blozz's" situation but he seemed to get some relief afterall.
RGone...
- Thread Starter
- #167
Hey all. Man...I really like this place. Everyone is so grounded (pun intended) and able to view things objectively.
No, I most certainly do not have a trust fund. I work for a living, and I'm very good at what I do. The only thing I spend money on for myself is toys like this, so my Wife is fine with the occasional splurge.
I ultimately decided to do the following:
RMA the Noctua
Purchase a Thermaltake CLW0217 AIO
Purchase 8GB of the GSkill 1866 Sniper Series RAM
The RAM I had in my current rig kept holding me back. I had to keep manually setting it to 1600 or less, otherwise my OC would fail upon boot, or I would get POST errors. When I originally purchased the RAM, I didn't intend on doing any OC'ing. No big deal. I'll just sell it on Ebay. I know some of you recommended to not get an AIO cooling system, but I just don't have the time to keep up any regular maintenance on this thing. I work long hours, and I have a 5 month old at home. This rig has really been a big time and energy drain on me so far, which is part of the reason I just decided to spend the extra $30 on liquid cooling.
The Wife and little one will be out of town on Thursday and Friday night, which gives me two nights to install and tweak this thing.
A few more questions for you guys:
1.) The Thermal compound that comes pre-installed on the AIO system I picked up - should I clean that off and re-apply some of the nice Noctua stuff before I send it back?
2.) How do I clear the CMOS?
3.) There's an off chance that there's a bit of built up static electricity in my rig right now. I read somewhere that if you unplug the power cable from the PSU, and then hold the power button for 30 seconds, it cycles the system and clears out any static. Is this true?
Thank you again for all of your guidance.
No, I most certainly do not have a trust fund. I work for a living, and I'm very good at what I do. The only thing I spend money on for myself is toys like this, so my Wife is fine with the occasional splurge.
I ultimately decided to do the following:
RMA the Noctua
Purchase a Thermaltake CLW0217 AIO
Purchase 8GB of the GSkill 1866 Sniper Series RAM
The RAM I had in my current rig kept holding me back. I had to keep manually setting it to 1600 or less, otherwise my OC would fail upon boot, or I would get POST errors. When I originally purchased the RAM, I didn't intend on doing any OC'ing. No big deal. I'll just sell it on Ebay. I know some of you recommended to not get an AIO cooling system, but I just don't have the time to keep up any regular maintenance on this thing. I work long hours, and I have a 5 month old at home. This rig has really been a big time and energy drain on me so far, which is part of the reason I just decided to spend the extra $30 on liquid cooling.
The Wife and little one will be out of town on Thursday and Friday night, which gives me two nights to install and tweak this thing.
A few more questions for you guys:
1.) The Thermal compound that comes pre-installed on the AIO system I picked up - should I clean that off and re-apply some of the nice Noctua stuff before I send it back?
2.) How do I clear the CMOS?
3.) There's an off chance that there's a bit of built up static electricity in my rig right now. I read somewhere that if you unplug the power cable from the PSU, and then hold the power button for 30 seconds, it cycles the system and clears out any static. Is this true?
Thank you again for all of your guidance.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
The TT aio Is decent I have one and have been meaning to try it out on the 6350 just haven't gotten around to it. It's on sale today at the EGG for $95. It's a thick rad so I would recommend two more fans for it. The ones on it are decent but the extra pull I found helped a lot. I eventually put 4 of these 2600 rpm puppies on it very noisy but effective. They were given to me by bassnut.
It looks like it should fit in the top of your box but you may want to verify that.
You can use the Noctua paste if you want I used ceramique 2 and now use Phobya HE grease extreme whatever you use will only make a few degrees difference at the outside.
There's a jumper at the bottom of the board by the USB header that's for clearing the cmos. Just move it from 1+2 to 2+3 leave it for at least 30 seconds, I typically will pull the battery just to be sure. Make sure the system is powered down and unplugged. As for the static you can just ground yourself out to the case to discharge it. The method you describe just drains the board of any residual charge that may be held in it not static AFAIK
It looks like it should fit in the top of your box but you may want to verify that.
You can use the Noctua paste if you want I used ceramique 2 and now use Phobya HE grease extreme whatever you use will only make a few degrees difference at the outside.
There's a jumper at the bottom of the board by the USB header that's for clearing the cmos. Just move it from 1+2 to 2+3 leave it for at least 30 seconds, I typically will pull the battery just to be sure. Make sure the system is powered down and unplugged. As for the static you can just ground yourself out to the case to discharge it. The method you describe just drains the board of any residual charge that may be held in it not static AFAIK
- Thread Starter
- #169
Just so I'm absolutely clear...
Power the computer down
Unplug the power
Switch the jumper cable
Pull the Battery
Plug the computer back in
Power the computer on for at least 30 seconds...
Power the computer off
Unplug the power
Switch the jumper cable back
Put the Battery back in
Bingo Bango
Power the computer down
Unplug the power
Switch the jumper cable
Pull the Battery
Plug the computer back in
Power the computer on for at least 30 seconds...
Power the computer off
Unplug the power
Switch the jumper cable back
Put the Battery back in
Bingo Bango
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
If you're unsure read the manual, it tells you exactly how to do it.
Here's the location of the jumper and you'll see the battery top left
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
Correct CMOS pin in-accuracy etc...
Power down >> Turn off the freeken computer as in shutdown from Windows.
Unplug cable >> Remove A/C power cord from wall outlet or UPS or power bar.
Move jumper from 1+2 to 3+4 >> Move Clear CMOS jumper from pins 1 / 2 to Pins 2 /3 and leave jumpered in Clear CMOS mode for at least 30 seconds. I use longer. 2 mins min.
Wait (remove battery if you wish) >> Can remove battery if one chooses and I often do so. PUT the battery back in battery holder before swapping Clear CMOS jumper back to pins 1 / 2.
Move jumper back to 1+2 >> Yep. Again be sure to put battery back in battery holder before moving CMOS jumper back to pins 1 / 2.
CMOS has been reset >> Yep.
Plug cable back in >> Plug power supply power cord back into A/C supply.
Power on >> Enter bios and make sure all bios settings are as they should be. HDDs set to AHCI if windows was installed in that mode and check all other settings for accuracy.
RGone...ster.
Power down >> Turn off the freeken computer as in shutdown from Windows.
Unplug cable >> Remove A/C power cord from wall outlet or UPS or power bar.
Move jumper from 1+2 to 3+4 >> Move Clear CMOS jumper from pins 1 / 2 to Pins 2 /3 and leave jumpered in Clear CMOS mode for at least 30 seconds. I use longer. 2 mins min.
Wait (remove battery if you wish) >> Can remove battery if one chooses and I often do so. PUT the battery back in battery holder before swapping Clear CMOS jumper back to pins 1 / 2.
Move jumper back to 1+2 >> Yep. Again be sure to put battery back in battery holder before moving CMOS jumper back to pins 1 / 2.
CMOS has been reset >> Yep.
Plug cable back in >> Plug power supply power cord back into A/C supply.
Power on >> Enter bios and make sure all bios settings are as they should be. HDDs set to AHCI if windows was installed in that mode and check all other settings for accuracy.
RGone...ster.
- Thread Starter
- #176
If I were to install any additional fans in the 550D, where should they go, and in what direction should they be pushing/pulling air?
To recap my current setup, I have two front mounted fans pulling air in, one top mounted fan (soon to be relocated when the AIO arrives) pulling air out, and one rear mounted fan pulling air out. I'm considering a couple more fans...perhaps on the side door? Perhaps on the bottom?
To recap my current setup, I have two front mounted fans pulling air in, one top mounted fan (soon to be relocated when the AIO arrives) pulling air out, and one rear mounted fan pulling air out. I'm considering a couple more fans...perhaps on the side door? Perhaps on the bottom?
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2004
- Location
- JAX, Mississauna
I would be way more concerned with putting a fan blowing on the VRMs from the front and one blowing on or taking air away from the rear of the cpu socket. Many cases today have a cut-out in the mobo tray where you can rig a fan blowing at or away from the rear of the cpu socket. And when you go watercooling you WILL need to add those two fans to the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 mobo setup. Moving away from an air cooler sitting on top of the cpu, removes the overflow air that has been trying to keep the VRMs cool for certain.
RGone...
RGone...
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2012
+1 this all day. Motherboards in the past came with a blower fan. I had one with my M3A32 MVP wifi deluxe board and was recommended by Asus to use the fan included with a water cooling setup.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2012
with my 6300 I don't need the fan on the backside untill i get extreme, witch is most of the time.
when over 5.0, 1.65 vcore for extended gamming, my backside fan is exaust and only about 20-25 cfm at max.
the fan on the case door feeding the vrms is a much higher flow, up to 86 cfm and I slow it way back with the bios settings, I very rearly need all that airflow in the vrm, but it's there if I need it.
when over 5.0, 1.65 vcore for extended gamming, my backside fan is exaust and only about 20-25 cfm at max.
the fan on the case door feeding the vrms is a much higher flow, up to 86 cfm and I slow it way back with the bios settings, I very rearly need all that airflow in the vrm, but it's there if I need it.
