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Where to start with this FX-8120!!!

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I figured I could get atleast a stabkle 3.6ghz OC with the Hyper TX3.. I wet sanded the bottom. Used 800 grit automotive sandpapaer. Polished it and now there are no machine marks. It's a flat surface. Maybe just a little line on each side of the copper pippes. I took a smaller fan and made it blow directly on the heatpipes before it gets to the fins. Right now I'm at 1.216 vcore at 3.37ghz stable. CPU socket temps are about 48ish and core temps at 40ish. I could push a bit more but I'm gonna wait for my water cooling to come in

Im at 225 x 15. My RAM is dual channel at 1800mhz and NB at 2250.

I know how to overclock with a locked multi. And like I said before with Gigabytes F10b bios it shows the frequencies in gray when you make a chance in multi or fsb prior to saving. I'm starting to get a hang of it.

From what i've read most can get the FSB to 265 with the right cooling and voltage increase. I figued 1.35-1.4 hopefully will get me to 265 x 17 for a 4.5ghz OC, and I'll adjust other settings accordingly. I don't want to get this thing vcore with this Hyper TX3. It's only 92mm push pull. I'd fry my chip in seconds
 
def think i'm getting a hand on this OC with the FX.
Just ran Intel Burn all the way through passed it. Here is SS'

8kh44.jpg

Not sure what temp in SpeedFan is my CPU socket. Think it's Temp 3

Temp 1: Max 35c
Temp 2: Max 53c
Temp 3: Max 56c

So I'm think Temp3 is def my cpu socket temp. Not bad for the Hyper TX3. I think this CPU has room to grow.

In Core Temp my max was 48c

225x16 @ 3.6 ghz. I think I'll drop it back down to 15 as the multi and run with that til I get my WC on it.
 
GamerMagnet said:
I know how to overclock with a locked multi.

You have an FX-8120? Right? Well it is not multiplier locked.

The cpu I did this 2 hours stress with is about an "8" I would 'guess' and this is the voltage it took for me to run the 4.5Ghz. It surely is not 1.3 to 1.4volts Vcore.

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Maybe you will have a 'golden' cpu and only time will tell I guess at the end of the coming week. Luck man and be well. RGone...ster.
 
thats nice clock and yes I have the 8120. From the guide I read and the one linked on linked on this thread he had a UD-7 board. I have the UD-5. I would up the voltage now, but there is no way my TX3 can cool it at all. The temps would shoot up like crazy. I have my LLC at High at the moment. And the vcore is set to -.050. so 1.250 down to 1.2. I guess the LLC is where it increases it a bit and shows a little higher voltage in CPU-Z. idk.

I'd love to hit 4.5 with a vcore of 1.35. Only time will tell. I'll have my Antec 920 on thursday and hopefully the case as well. this shotty 3 year old antec case has no air flow at all.

When I get everything going I'm gonna try to get a decent FSB and lower multiplier. Or should I do it the other way around. I game a good bit and I know this isn't the best gaming cpu, but I also do alot of other stuff as well. Once Piledriver releases I will be getting there 4 core version that is equal to the 4170. I was really tempted on just getting the 4170, but my mother does alot of cpu intensive stuff so i'm gonna give this to here once I get that 4 core. Think its the 4370. Hopefully they work the kinks out and its atleast comparanble to the 2600k in Single Threaded applications Only time will tell. I'll be away a few days. once I get everything hooked up and the WC kit hooked up I'll be back with more questions. this will be my first Water Cooling solution...

take care and thanks again for all the help from Rgone, Trents and Bassnut...sorry if I missed your name. ahh knuc....something. can't rememeber it..lol, sorry. laterz
 
I think in all honesty, that the bigger multiplier and "some" FSB/Cpu Reference Frequency upclock may work the best. Like "bassnut" said, there was a time with AMD when he clocked strictly using the upward unlocked multiplier. BUT that has changed some lately with AMD, since it now seems fairly understood that when "pushed hard" that a little FSB overclock helps in getting stable with a very small amount of 'less' cpu voltage. Not much but maybe just a shade lower.

I have seen this said now for months and I did my runs to get to 4.8Ghz using that idea. I will now try otherwise since I got up there and go into test mode which is why I am on Bulldozer in the first place. I certainly did not need a heater here in the south.

What I found real fast was that my DDR1600 ram ran out of room to run when I upped the FSB beyond 220ish. I had to scrounge some DDR1866 and wish it were DDR 2133 or greater even.

For years now on many boards and certainly the 775 socket Intel boards, there were some ram to chipset latches that were more powerful than others. IF I am not just out of memory brain cells, I think it has been said that the 1:4 memory latch is a little stouter than the 3:10 that you see pretty often being used. I tweaked my FSB to drop my ram into the 1:4 ram divider. As time passes and I have more time to just test and test, I will try to determine such for my ownself, "for real".

Anyway, those are the reasons why I use 'some' FSB but mostly to get my ram where I want it based on my idea of 1:4 divider on ram is a little more powerful. Could be wetter than a duck dog.

Later man and good luck on your journey and your parts coming on to you. RGone...ster.
 
so, today I got 3 of the 4 parts i ordered. Of course it had to be the new case that shipped separately. So I am waiting for 2pm tomorrow so I can start playing around and setting up my first water cooling kit. I installed Windows 7 on my new SSD, this thing fly's compared to a normal HDD. glad I got it. And this power supply is sick. The smart connector management station is basically the modular part of the PSU. There aren't any connectors on the PSU itself. It's a connector close to a foot long that allows you to have better wire management. Glad I grabbed it.

Question, should I leave the TIM on the Antec 920, replace with Ceramique 2 or go grab a bottle of AS5? I'll check back tomorrow..later
 
It's always a good idea to have extra TIM on hand because sooner or later you will find yourself removing and reinstalling the heat sink for one reason or another. AS5 is a good, economical, tried and true product. Artic Cooling MX2, MX4 are also very good and economical.
 
well after a long, annoying transfer of parts to this new case of course I get a problem when I start the computer up. I've been searching for answers but nobody has any clarification on the matter.

When I go to open Chill Control I get an error that basically doesn't allow me to change any settings or monitor temps. I uninstalled it, trying to find it on the antec sight to see if they have an updated version.

It's running, it's just running at idle. The light is on the base as well. Just sits at idle.
 
Sorry, I can't help you with that one.

Say, I notice you have the OCZ Agility Sata III SSD. How's that working for ya? I just ordered one from NewEgg yesterday 'cause they were on sale yesterday for $75 after rebate for the 120gb drive. I"m wondering 'cause some of the reviews made me hesitate.
 
one thing I didnt like about the 920 was the cheap USB connecter. I assume you have it plugged into the right USB socket? Since it is only a single width connecttor, 1 row of wires not two it needs to go on the top pins of your USB Socket ..... check and make sure just to be safe. Does it show the rpm of the fans? One last test if when you plug it in or unplug it while the system is running does window recognise it ..... you'lll get that windows sound like when you plug in or unplug a usb device or the loading drivers pop up.
 
There have been issues with the chill control and the Usb. If I knew the exact error or if the error was given a name...maybe there are others been there already.
RGone...ster.
 
tried to download from there site and get the same thing.

Cannot connect to Chill Control Device. Check USB connection on device and restart the application.

I re-installed it a few times now. Not showing up in device manager either. Tried the same thing with my 3rd USB internal port. still no go.
 
I never had any issues with mine ..... and found it to be a good cooler. I wonder how many of these problems are the result of this cheap USB connector? Could these issues be caused when / if the USB connector was put in the lower bank of pins instead of the upper?
 
just tried pulling the plug out and putting back in. No go. Windows didn't recognize it, although it ramped up like crazy when i unplugged it.

My pins are on the bottom. with the black wire being the farthest to the left.

I have the gigabyte 990fxa-ud5 and from what I've heard, not sure if true. is that my boards internal usb connectors are upside down.
 
Let me see if the install manual is still in the box ..... be back in a bit
 
Luck is on your side the pamplet is there. See pick below. On my Crosshair IV Extream the usb plug is like shown ..... 5 pins across the top and 4 on the bottom. According to the pic you see the USB plug goes on the top 5 pins with the black wire to the RIGHT. If you ahve it on the bottom and the black wire to the left it is opposite what you should have. If you need a high quality pic let me know I can drop it on my server downstairs and supply a link.
 

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There is a 15 page thread about this at OCN. There were a number that talked to tech support for the Usb issue like you seem to be having.

The Kuhler tech said this:

1. Make sure that the latest version of netframework is installed and updated.
2. Load the software and drivers first without any trace of previous software. Do not have the Kuhler plugged in.
3. After software install, then plug in the Usb connector as described in manual.

Notes: some have swapped the position of the black wire by flipping it end to end for plug in. This is absolutely contrary to the Kuhler manual.

Some had issues with Win 7 64 bit and had to first install the software (V1.0) from the DVD and then after things worked, they 'then' could use Kuhler software V1.1.

Did not see many other suggestions for solution. RGone...ster.
 
Luck is on your side the pamplet is there. See pick below. On my Crosshair IV Extream the usb plug is like shown ..... 5 pins across the top and 4 on the bottom. According to the pic you see the USB plug goes on the top 5 pins with the black wire to the RIGHT. If you ahve it on the bottom and the black wire to the left it is opposite what you should have. If you need a high quality pic let me know I can drop it on my server downstairs and supply a link.

yeh. I got the manual here. My usb is the other way around. My USB has the closed pin on the the top left, not like the bottom right shown in the picture.
 
I was just looking at pics of your motherboard and it looks like you are right and your usb ports are upside down to mine .... you have 5 pins on the bottom and 4 on top by the looks of the pic. Right? it was hard to tell in the pic. Also noticed that you ahve some on / off charge USB Ports ..... could they be turned off in your bios ..... I am not familiar with this option. Maybe trents can elaborate.
 
ever mind ... the on / off Charge feature just allows some devices to draw more power whne charging.
 
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