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G903 Lightspeed
The Logitech G903 Lightspeed was released in 2017, and I’ve owned two since 2018. Out of the many Logitech mice I’ve owned and used over the years, this one is, by far, my favorite. The first mouse lasted around a year before having issues with clicking. The replacement I got from the RMA didn’t even make it three months. These failures combined with my G700s pushed me to fix these mice instead of getting new ones.
While the G903 Lightspeed is my favorite to use, it has not been designed to be easily repaired. Logitech has hidden screws under the sticker and Teflon feet. There is also a screw under the battery, which is held in with an adhesive pad.
To start disassembly, flip the mouse over and turn it off. Remove the Teflon feet with a small flat blade screwdriver. Use a #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove six screws. Four screws are under the Teflon feet, and two are under the sticker. To make assembly easier, leave the screws under the sticker after loosening them. Then, remove the T4 Torx at the front of the mouse.
Split the case, hinging at the back of the mouse. Flip up the white lever holding the amber data cable, then remove the cable. Unplug the battery cable. There is no latch, so pull it straight out. All the work is done in the top half of the mouse, so set the bottom half aside.
This is the unnerving part of the disassembly: we need to remove the lithium-ion battery and it is held in by an adhesive pad. Use a prying tool to remove the battery, doing your best to not bend it too much. This may be obvious to some, but do not use a metal tool to pry the battery out. Puncturing the battery will kill it, and you may have a super-heated problem on your hands. Since the cable will block the removal of the battery, pry from the front of the mouse. Be mindful of the plastic screw pillars next to the battery as they easily break. In the close-up photo, you can see I broke one.
Remove the magnetically attached side buttons on both sides, if you use them. Remove the seven screws holding the top clamshell.
Even with the screws removed, the clamshell is still firmly affixed. Near the side buttons, unhook the clamshell by lifting it up and pulling it out. Once both sides are unhooked, the clamshell comes off.
Remove the four screws holding the main button covers. Once the screws are removed, twist the covers slightly to remove them. Under them, there are four more screws holding the center assembly. I forgot to take a picture, but this assembly has a permanently attached cable, so flip it back out of the way.
Remove the switch cable, then remove the two screws holding the board down. Do the same for the other side. The smaller board makes it difficult to replace the switches since it is awkward to hold and heats up quickly.
Speaking from experience, make sure to install the new switch on the correct side of the board and in the right orientation. Certainly, I, the author of this article, would not install it wrong twice in a row while fixing my own mouse, nor would I glare at the small PCB as it cools below the temperature of the sun.
Now, to start reassembling the mouse. Once the new switches are soldered in, place the board back in the mouse and reinstall the two screws and cable for each side.
Flip the center button cover back to its normal position. Make sure the cables for the Omron switches are not being pinched; they should tuck under the cover. Reinstall the four screws holding the center cover down. Reinstall the main button covers by lining up the metal pin and then simultaneously twisting while pushing down. They should be fairly snug without the screws. Reinstall the four screws holding down the main button covers.
Reinstall the clamshell we removed earlier, and hook the sides into the channel. The clamshell should feel snug without screws installed. Make sure both sides are firmly affixed.
Reinstall the seven clamshell screws, and reinstall the side buttons if you use them.
We wrecked the adhesive pad when removing the battery, but it will still be sticky enough to hold the battery in place. Reinstall the battery, taking note of where the cable is run in the pictures below. Push down lightly on the battery, and it will be secured in place. Check the location of the amber data cable and the battery cable. The data cable has an arm holding it in place, while the battery cable runs under the plastic.
Line up the two halves of the mouse and reconnect the battery cable. For the data connection, make sure the white plastic lever is flipped up and insert the amber data cable. It is important the cable is fully inserted. The cable should look straight, and should not pull out easily.
Reassemble the two halves of the mouse, making sure no cables will be pinched. Even without the screws, the two halves should combine without much pressure, and should feel solid. Reinstall the six Phillips screws on the bottom, then the Torx towards the front. If you remember, there were plastic pillars next to the battery for screws under the sticker. If you broke one or both of them, take the screw out so it doesn’t rattle around. The mouse has plenty of support without them.
Turn on the mouse, connect it to a computer, and verify all features of the mouse are functional. If everything works, good job!
Use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to clean where the new Teflon feet will go. Once the surface is dry, install the new Teflon feet.
Enjoy your refurbished mouse!
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