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G700s
The Logitech G700s was released in 2013, and I’ve had three since 2014. Like the G903 Lightspeed, these mice lasted around a year before having issues with clicking.
This mouse is not difficult to repair, but it does require a fair amount of soldering to get access to the switches.
To start disassembly, flip the mouse over and remove the battery cover, battery, and USB dongle. Remove the Teflon feet with a flat-blade screwdriver. Remove the five screws holding the two halves together.
Once the screws are removed, flip the mouse over, and split the casing as shown below. Don’t be too violent; there is a cable connecting the halves. To remove the connector, slip in two flat-blade screwdrivers between the housing and connector, then pull the connector out. The arrows show where I slipped in the screwdrivers. Set the top half of the mouse aside.
Next, we need to remove the scroll wheel assembly. One end of the assembly is being held in by a plastic pin. Looking at the pin like in the pictures below, it needs to be moved left to remove. Push on the end with the same screwdriver used to open the mouse. Pull the pin entirely out.
With the hinge removed, there is nothing holding the scroll wheel assembly in. The other end of the assembly is held in by a metal guard. Gently lift the end which had the plastic hinge pin and pull up. The end with the metal guard has two very small springs, so pay attention if they try to escape. Remove the springs. Small tweezers help, but you can certainly do it by hand.
All the screws holding the PCB assembly are now visible. Two screws that held one end of the scroll wheel assembly also double up as support for the middle click switch, and also hold the PCB down. Remove the two screws and the metal guard. Be very careful with this part of the PCB! It is very easy to break.
Then, remove the two screws holding the black plastic scroll wheel standoff, near the middle of the mouse. The screws like to stay in the housing; I left the screw in to ease installation later.
Due to the design of the mouse, we cannot access the screws in the bottom PCB to remove both boards. Instead, we need to desolder the top board to get access to the switches. Use a desoldering pump or braid on the 14 pins. Remove the board by pulling it straight up.
Locate the Omron switches. Each switch has three solder pads on the bottom side of the PCB. Remove the switches and solder in the new ones. Unlike most of the other mice in this article, one switch is turned around. Make sure to install them in the correct orientation or the mouse will not work correctly.
Reinstall the board and make sure it is fully seated. The pins should stick through an equal amount, and the board where the middle click switch is should sit flush with the clear spacer. Solder the 14 pins.
Before we get too far into reassembly, connect the mouse to a computer and verify the new buttons work. Be careful not to touch metal components while it is powered up. If the new buttons are functional, disconnect the mouse and continue with reassembly.
Reinstall the black plastic scroll wheel standoff, and install its screws. Reinstall the middle click metal guard and the two screws holding it down.
Adjust the center scroll wheel sensors so they are vertical. Then, reinstall the very small springs.
Carefully (so as not to lose the springs) install the scroll wheel assembly. Verify the clear plastic is below the metal guard. Then, install the plastic pin on the backside.
Get the top half of the mouse we set aside, and install the connector. Verify it is fully seated.
Assemble the two halves of the mouse, being careful not to pinch any wires. The two halves should easily clip together. Reinstall the 5 screws, battery, and battery cover. Connect the mouse to a computer, and verify all features of the mouse are functional. If so, good job!
Use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to clean where the new Teflon feet will go. Once the surface is dry, install the new Teflon feet.
Enjoy your refurbished mouse!
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