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New build for a water chiller! 1/3Ton (1/2Ton TXV)
- Thread starter XeonStrikeForce
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2005
AHHHH.. thats what it is.. Ive never seen a product that advertised itself to do that.. very cool..
and if the mix is on the compressors box, then they are likely just similar enough mixes to get the same performance, the persentages are exactly the same (I would like to know just exactly how they deside that LOL) maybe its more about density or somthing else besides just boiling temp. I like your mix better, lower boiling temperature
(I got that .pdf off some government or industrial type site, I couldn't care less about its content other then to give me a decent idea whats out there )
Oh yea, the progress you have made so far in construction.. More pics
and if the mix is on the compressors box, then they are likely just similar enough mixes to get the same performance, the persentages are exactly the same (I would like to know just exactly how they deside that LOL) maybe its more about density or somthing else besides just boiling temp. I like your mix better, lower boiling temperature
(I got that .pdf off some government or industrial type site, I couldn't care less about its content other then to give me a decent idea whats out there )Oh yea, the progress you have made so far in construction.. More pics
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #43
sadly not much, nothing more I can do untill I can afford the oil, Basicly I'm doing it the was the soviets made their subs (And hoping by doing so I'll get the same resualt, the most superior subs in the world, and my case a very robust and reliable plant ).
I'll take some pics of how I have the parts layed out for ya though along with my custom R-134a cylinder.
Things I need still:
Q ITEM
1- 1 US Quart of POE Oil (Can't do any thing more with the compressor till I get that) <Got two (Just waiting to receive)
1- MK1 120V Coil assembly (This can wait for later,I'd rather do it right first time round) <Got one
4- 1/4 SAE Flare Bolts (Thees thank fully are cheap, tomorrow perhaps) < got 8
3- Steel Cylinders (20Bucks each, thats 60dollars I dont have )
1- Filter dryer (Totaly optional, but the one I have now is a bit rediculosly oversized)
1- Scale for making my gass mixes (I fear the cost of this item!)
).I'll take some pics of how I have the parts layed out for ya though along with my custom R-134a cylinder.
Things I need still:
Q ITEM
1- 1 US Quart of POE Oil (Can't do any thing more with the compressor till I get that) <Got two (Just waiting to receive)
1- MK1 120V Coil assembly (This can wait for later,I'd rather do it right first time round) <Got one
4- 1/4 SAE Flare Bolts (Thees thank fully are cheap, tomorrow perhaps) < got 8
3- Steel Cylinders (20Bucks each, thats 60dollars I dont have
)1- Filter dryer (Totaly optional, but the one I have now is a bit rediculosly oversized)
1- Scale for making my gass mixes (I fear the cost of this item!)
Last edited:
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #44
Picies as prommised
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2004
- Location
- Philadelphia
I get cold just by looking at it
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #47
hehe, you'll be frozen when she's don
FYI: R-152a is 16 Once for $14dollars (DiflouroEthane)
R-134a is 10 Once for $15Dollars
FYI: R-152a is 16 Once for $14dollars (DiflouroEthane)
R-134a is 10 Once for $15Dollars
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #49
Well I plan on making a good amount of it so thus fare I have bought 2 Cans @ 10 Once each of R-134a So in reality I have probly 18Once (Line lose, Valve atatching loss and the like) Inside the cylinder, and the cylinder wants anouther can it seems
So I'm guesing
3- 10 Once Cans R-134a
2- 16 Once Cans R-152a (Come in 16 Once cans for less then the R-134a)
1- 2 pound Can of R-22
1- Larg cylinder to put the mix in
This will make enough to fill meny systems or trade with local comrades for parts and what not
So I'm guesing
3- 10 Once Cans R-134a
2- 16 Once Cans R-152a (Come in 16 Once cans
for less then the R-134a)1- 2 pound Can of R-22
1- Larg cylinder to put the mix in
This will make enough to fill meny systems
or trade with local comrades for parts and what not
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #51
Thanks guys.
If you wondering how I transfer the stufe from the can to the cylinder, I first put the cylinder in the freezer over night and sleep with the can to make shure its dead on 38C (LOL it works so what the hell eh?) In the morning I connect the hose and purge it then connect it to the cylinder. Firt I open the can valve so the line should be flooded with liquid, then I open the cyliner and bang, all the liquid is shot into the cylinder and the can is compleatly empty! Infact I once got a slight VACUUM!!! in the can
If you wondering how I transfer the stufe from the can to the cylinder, I first put the cylinder in the freezer over night and sleep with the can to make shure its dead on 38C (LOL it works so what the hell eh?) In the morning I connect the hose and purge it then connect it to the cylinder. Firt I open the can valve so the line should be flooded with liquid, then I open the cyliner and bang, all the liquid is shot into the cylinder and the can is compleatly empty! Infact I once got a slight VACUUM!!!
in the can - Joined
- Apr 7, 2003
- Location
- Riverside, California
Errr.... you did deep vacuum the tank before putting it into freezer right?
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #53
Na I filled it with water to make shure it was clean in side. (For thoughs that aren't so bright thats a sarcastice joke)
No I didn't put any vacuum on it, would take a very very long time du to the fact it had 10oz of R-134a in it all ready, but thats why it GOES into the freezer, the low temp creats a huge pressure diferance cuasing the refrigerant to choos the cylinder over the warmer can. All so why the can is inverted so the liquid is shot into the cylinder in a near instant. Now if you asking befor USING the cylinder I vacuumed it ? well duh, and I heated it to 60C while vacuuming it! there is no concivable trace of moisture or air in there at a 28"Mg vacuum @ 60c, and befor that it sat at a 20"Mg Vacuum at 30C for a day.
No I didn't put any vacuum on it, would take a very very long time du to the fact it had 10oz of R-134a in it all ready, but thats why it GOES into the freezer, the low temp creats a huge pressure diferance cuasing the refrigerant to choos the cylinder over the warmer can. All so why the can is inverted so the liquid is shot into the cylinder in a near instant. Now if you asking befor USING the cylinder I vacuumed it ? well duh, and I heated it to 60C while vacuuming it! there is no concivable trace of moisture or air in there at a 28"Mg vacuum @ 60c, and befor that it sat at a 20"Mg Vacuum at 30C for a day.
Xeon, that is impressive!! I don't know that much about refrigeration, but it sounds like a real winner.
This might be a dumb question, but why liquid cooling? I realize it's better than conventional fans etc.. but does liquid really cool the absolute best?
I looked up cooling directly with refrigerants and found a bunch of not-so-good attempts, but the thing I noticed was that all of them used the same kind of "seat sink". --Basically, a hollow copper plate that the refrigerant flowed through. One said that it only kept his CPU at 29C???
Here's the Idea I came up with to "experiment" with a non liquid alternative:
I'm thinking of using a few peices of solid copper plate as a container and braizing a line of 1/4 inch copper tubing to it (in a zig-zag shape). Then braizing the rest of the box together so it is water tight with a 1/4 inch nipple, a float switch and a small 12V pump (probably located outside the case) to allow for condensation removal with the copper lines running from a small window A/C unit.
do you think it's worth investing the $50US +/- and time? I already have an A/C unit (uses 134a and needs to be recharged anyway).
PS: My knowledge of HVAC is thus....
I worked for an HVAC company for 3 years installing A/C units and Duct. LOL
So, I know how to use a reclaimer, Braize/Sweat pipe etc... But the engineering side....well..........The above Idea is my imagination
This might be a dumb question, but why liquid cooling? I realize it's better than conventional fans etc.. but does liquid really cool the absolute best?
I looked up cooling directly with refrigerants and found a bunch of not-so-good attempts, but the thing I noticed was that all of them used the same kind of "seat sink". --Basically, a hollow copper plate that the refrigerant flowed through. One said that it only kept his CPU at 29C???
Here's the Idea I came up with to "experiment" with a non liquid alternative:
I'm thinking of using a few peices of solid copper plate as a container and braizing a line of 1/4 inch copper tubing to it (in a zig-zag shape). Then braizing the rest of the box together so it is water tight with a 1/4 inch nipple, a float switch and a small 12V pump (probably located outside the case) to allow for condensation removal with the copper lines running from a small window A/C unit.
do you think it's worth investing the $50US +/- and time? I already have an A/C unit (uses 134a and needs to be recharged anyway).
PS: My knowledge of HVAC is thus....
I worked for an HVAC company for 3 years installing A/C units and Duct. LOL
So, I know how to use a reclaimer, Braize/Sweat pipe etc... But the engineering side....well..........The above Idea is my imagination
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #55
Short answer yes.
I did it for silence, I hate noise with a passion I grew up in an industrial logging camp, so I've had my dosage of noise for life! But the great cooling is a plus to the quietness of it Nic cool 37C on both procs 27/4 (Thats loaded fyi)
There is an insurmountable level of reading and practicing you need to do befour trying it, with out a drawing I can't tell ya much but by the sounds of it you'll still get condinsation on the out side of your box as the condensate will be sub ambiant too!
DD/SS systems make cute toys, but I've never been one for cute or simple I want performance and efficeincy, and if your the same you'll want to take the time to learn the engineering side of it. It'd take you two or three months to learn and understand enough to build a nice working unit from scratch
FYI add another zerro expect to spend at least (And I realy mean at LEAST) $500 in tools and or parts (Unless the company will let you use the equip for personal stufe, but then again nothing beats the plessure of owning your own tools )
I did it for silence, I hate noise with a passion I grew up in an industrial logging camp, so I've had my dosage of noise for life! But the great cooling is a plus to the quietness of it
Nic cool 37C on both procs 27/4 (Thats loaded fyi) There is an insurmountable level of reading and practicing you need to do befour trying it, with out a drawing I can't tell ya much but by the sounds of it you'll still get condinsation on the out side of your box as the condensate will be sub ambiant too!
DD/SS systems make cute toys, but I've never been one for cute or simple
I want performance and efficeincy, and if your the same you'll want to take the time to learn the engineering side of it. It'd take you two or three months to learn and understand enough to build a nice working unit from scratch FYI add another zerro expect to spend at least (And I realy mean at LEAST) $500 in tools and or parts (Unless the company will let you use the equip for personal stufe, but then again nothing beats the plessure of owning your own tools
)I guess it's back to the drawing board on the heatsink 
I didn't factor in the external condensation LOL. Glad you noticed it!!
Any Ideas on how I could overcome that problem? One option that comes to mind would be a cotton wick (wrap the box in guaze) and allow it to fill a separate collector and of course, run the main collector to the secondary and then out to the pump. but I am interested in hearing other ideas .
Hey, ya never know.....could be a winner (in this mess of frankenstein's CPU cooler ideas)
I didn't factor in the external condensation LOL. Glad you noticed it!!
Any Ideas on how I could overcome that problem? One option that comes to mind would be a cotton wick (wrap the box in guaze) and allow it to fill a separate collector and of course, run the main collector to the secondary and then out to the pump. but I am interested in hearing other ideas
. Hey, ya never know.....could be a winner (in this mess of frankenstein's CPU cooler ideas)
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #57
in theory, but life has a nasty habbit of taking theory and B**ch slapping us with reality lol
Best way that I've seen is what every ones does, overkill insulation and puting a dessicant in the case and using conforming compount to insulate the MB electricly. I was going to tune the system to run the water at 0C then have it go through a 120mm rad to cool me off lol, then idealy the exiting water should be a couple degree's higher making condansation easier to deal with.
Best way that I've seen is what every ones does, overkill insulation and puting a dessicant in the case and using conforming compount to insulate the MB electricly. I was going to tune the system to run the water at 0C then have it go through a 120mm rad to cool me off lol, then idealy the exiting water should be a couple degree's higher making condansation easier to deal with.
XeonStrikeForce said:
I guess it's gonna be a while LOL. I don't have an extra $500 to play with at the moment anyway.
All that insulation on the MB sounds like more work than worth to me LOL. I mean, wouldn't insulating the MB increase the Heat on other components? I'm not referring to the chipet/VGA/RAM but rather the other IC's that also generate heat (as well as capacitors etc..). It almost makes you wanna get a strong peice of plastic, shoud the whole thing, and attend to the un-avoidable areas like the CPU (which even then it could end up with moisture build up).
I could always put the board in an upside down desktop case (mounting the drive correct, of course) and have a collector in the case so that condensation drips off
.......but that would be silly.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #59
My field isn't on ultra cold stufe for computers, your best bet is to look at how every one ells has don it, the best road is the one thats the most used. It's been tried and tested far as the condensation game is concerned.
Erf too tired to think. I'll pic this up when I go some time.
Erf too tired to think. I'll pic this up when I go some time.
OP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2004
- Location
- Canada, BC, Gibsons
- Thread Starter
- #60
Well an update: My guages haven't arrived and are technicly three days late, I'm realy starting to hope I wasn't screwed! other then that same bs differant day.
