X6 1100T overclocking help needed past 3.8 GHZ

[reqlez]

I have a gut feeling this and a change in the oreintation of the CPU Cooler would benefit you. Then blow air thru the cooler at the exhausting rear case fan.


The NM-A90 Upgrade-Kit for NH-U12P SE2 and NH-U9B SE2 CPU coolers makes it possible to install the heatsink turned by 90° on socket AM2/AM2+/AM3 AMD motherboards. Using the NM-A90 kit thus gives AMD users more flexibility in aligning the cooler with the airflow inside their case.

Caution: The NM-A90 Upgrade-Kit is compatible with NH-U12P SE2 and NH-U9B SE2 coolers only.

There is also a fan on the top right after the cooler sucking air out... are you saying that because the intake for that noctua is at bottom the video card interferes with the airflow ? I have to go look for my invoice, i ordered all the stuff thru NCIX maybe they still have record lol

 

[reqlez]

Okay... I just found the invoice. looks like i have a Noctua NH-U9B SE2 cooler.

I will get that upgrade ordered thanks for the link.

 

[RGone]

So you did not have the NH-U12P SE2 cooler that has been in your signature? There is a good bit of difference between what your signature showed as your cooler and what you actually do have. NOW I am more than ever convinced turning the cooler so it can blow air out the back of the case thru the rear case exhaust fan is a good idea.


Did a lot of g00gling about the NH-UB9 SE2 and similar size Noctua and this is copied showing what was the general consensus of opinion. The user likes were really all over the map though.

Copied.
If going for a Noctua I would spend the extra $10 and get the NH-U12P. The the NF-12 fans are much better than the NF-B9s used on the U9B, in every conceivable way. Price to performance, the Hyper 212+ (or the EVO) is probably a better deal though.
End Copy.

There were a lot of peeps who wondered why get the 90MM rig instead of the 120mm one is the point I was making. Good luck to you man.

 

[reqlez]

So you did not have the NH-U12P SE2 cooler that has been in your signature? There is a good bit of difference between what your signature showed as your cooler and what you actually do have. NOW I am more than ever convinced turning the cooler so it can blow air out the back of the case thru the rear case exhaust fan is a good idea.


Did a lot of g00gling about the NH-UB9 SE2 and similar size Noctua and this is copied showing what was the general consensus of opinion. The user likes were really all over the map though.

Copied.
If going for a Noctua I would spend the extra $10 and get the NH-U12P. The the NF-12 fans are much better than the NF-B9s used on the U9B, in every conceivable way. Price to performance, the Hyper 212+ (or the EVO) is probably a better deal though.
End Copy.

There were a lot of peeps who wondered why get the 90MM rig instead of the 120mm one is the point I was making. Good luck to you man.

Yea i guess they didnt have the NH-U12P in stock or something when i purchased all the parts. I already ordered the "upgrade" from Noctua. Also i noticed that I should have taken the front vent panel off when i was cleaning, the case has filters on fans and the front intake filter was horrible lol I already re-applied the thermal compound, lets see what that does.

 

[reqlez]

Yea temps still reach 70C...

I'm going to wait for this 90 degree upgrade part and will let you know of the outcome.

 

[RJARRRPCGP]

Something did look a little odd.
Because it looks a lot like Thubans should get at least 4.1 or 4.0.

 

[RGone]

Something did look a little odd.
Because it looks a lot like Thubans should get at least 4.1 or 4.0.

Yes, but what if it is just one of those crappy ones that will only do 3.9ish or so? Then he has got to feel bad the rest of the time he has the thing. I truthfully don't think telling him everybody else's will do X, helped him at all. Just maybe piling shame on his head. That is why you will seldom see me ever tell somebody that their stuff ought to do X. I don't know what his stuff will do in the end or what it will cost to get him there so mostly from the outset, I try to determine what it will not do. I just work with them as much as can to try and help him from many miles away. Sometime we get satisfaction and other times we don't. It will be the luck of the draw on silicon, in the end anyway.

 

[RJARRRPCGP]

I would at least get a direct-pipe heatsink. Reminds me that I don't like my Thermaltake V1 anymore!

Because there's stuff before the pipes and I did try it again after adding paste to the spaces between the bottom and the pipes.

 

[RGone]

Yea i guess they didnt have the NH-U12P in stock or something when i purchased all the parts. I already ordered the "upgrade" from Noctua. Also i noticed that I should have taken the front vent panel off when i was cleaning, the case has filters on fans and the front intake filter was horrible lol I already re-applied the thermal compound, lets see what that does.

From your next post put in this one.
Yea temps still reach 70C...

I'm going to wait for this 90 degree upgrade part and will let you know of the outcome.

Okay we need to do some SERIOUS troubleshooting here so that turning the cooler is in fact a fix and not another failure due some super odd crap you are dealing with that if we could lay our eyes on the problem would just hop out at us.

1. > Measure the distance between the back of that video card and the blade center of that bottom fan on the CPU cooler.

2. > Make sure you do not have one of the fans mounted backwards on the cooler and the fans blowing AT each other. We had that on a push-pull a month or so ago and he even owned up to having done it. A real man.

3. > Put your hand between the back of the video card and Cpu cooler intake and see if it is very warm compared to the air in the room you stand in.

4. > It is hard to do but after enough practice you can tell if the metal on the top of the cpu is warped. How the heat sink compound looks laid out across the top of the cpu and the bottom of the Heat Sink itself can give good clues with practice. You may have to take the Heatsink off and take pictures of the top of cpu and bottom of cpu and post for us to see or else flatness can be checked with a very good straight edge used for things like machine work.

5. > We need to ensure that the attaching mechanism is putting enough pressure on top of the cpu. The way paste is laid out can point to not enough pressure and I know many good cooler makers now make an increased pressure mounting system for the sure enough tweaker. I think I saw such at Noctua even. But you should not be able to twist that cpu cooler on top of the cpu after it is mounted and run at least 5 hours and shut down and checked after total cool off.

6. > Okay we got the checking done that I do the first time my stuff does not seem to run cool. I have done it so long and others as well, that from a distance we forget to say something about things we have done for years.

7. > So now for a test since there seem two fans in the top of that Lian Li case and there should be one capable of blowing right at that HSF assembly if it is turned around and made to draw air from the top of the case and let the Fan in the top of the case blow straight into the intake fan of the cpu cooler and see if the temps don't fall when doing so. I bet the temps will fall if all the rest of the stuff checks out as fine and passable.

One note here there seems to be a place for two fans in the top of that case and you may have only a single fan at the top mounted toward the front of the case and might have to move it to the rear hole in the case top.

Now if reversing the Cpu Cooler and the top fans blowing directions, lowers the temps...then changing the orientation of the Cpu cooler to blow out the rear will likely help.

Now that is what " I " really would have done when I found my temps just would not go down. Good luck man.

 

[storm-chaser]

CPU may be hitting a brick wall in that clock speed range. You might want to bump up the CPU-NB voltage to 1.4 and get a hyper 212+ for better cooling. Take the side off for now to keep it cool and monitor temps. May just have to live with 3.8 and focus on NB performance. You can get it to 3000 or higher with some work.

 

[trents]

I also would point out that the "real" cooler is only a 92mm fan-based cooler, not the 120mm fan-based cooler you originally led us to believe you were using. Probably not adequate to get a high overclock in an 1100T. You really ought to move up to a bigger heat sink if your case will accommodate it.

 

[reqlez]

yea i was actually thinking about making that top fan blow into the CPU fan after reversing the flow to see if that helped. About the fan orientation, i triple checked its correct ;-)

I will perform those other steps and see what happens. To be honest i didnt really buy this system to be overclocked, and then one day decided i was bored and wanted more out of it lol If all the steps fail i will try to get a higher performance cooler, but of course before i do that i want to make sure nothing else is the problem. Ill take some pictures of the inside so you can see.

 

[reqlez]

okay something crazy happened. when I first tested the temp after re applying the paste it was at 70C during the 8K pass on prime95. I'm doing the test now and highest is at 63C !!! ambient temp the same ... okay i shall keep testing...

 

[RGone]

To be honest i didnt really buy this system to be overclocked, and then one day decided i was bored and wanted more out of it lol

Hey man nothing wrong with doing a little overclocking; bored or not. The only problem is being realistic about what it might cost in money and time.

I read a study on human ergonomics and it said the average computer user would not notice any speed increase in a system unless the overspeed was at least 300Mhz. Not sure how they accomplish such studies, but I have tried the theory a few times with myself and others. "Just" using the computer a drop of 300Mhz was never noticed by those I tried it out on. I have had a couple of bad-azz Intel cpus that would run beyond 4.0Ghz over 3 years ago and I dropped them back to a daily use speed of 3600Mhz and once my mind quit its' games...I never had issue with 3600Mhz and not 4000Mhz and beyond.

Sometimes we overclockers take things way too far for the average user. You don't bench mark every day and you don't compete at HWBot like I have done and even held some records for periods of time, until I got to hate the whole deal.

As far as cpu speed goes for gaming, most of the time it is the video card that makes for the most performance. If one has at least 3600Mhz and a card at the upper mid range of video cards, I doubt there will be any bottlenecking of either the cpu or the video card.

It is just hard to talk serious logic in some instances. Either the user himself has bought into the max overclock thing or somebody comes along and pushes him over into the chase for Mhz. Like I said earlier, I seldom mention what a max for X maybe, since we do not know. I have bought the best stepping and week and everything that should have made MY cpu a king. I got a bow wow many times. It all depends on your or my own cpu most of the time as to how far it will clock.

In your case/situation you need to get your cpu somewhat cooler even if you stop your clock at 3800Mhz or less. That seems pretty evident to me at this time.

I will be very interested in knowing what happens when you reverse the direction of the CPU cooler and the top fan. I would like to see something that does 'make' some difference in going cooler on the cpu. If we don't see something that makes a differnce, you may have a cpu with a bad lid to silicon contact which you only see once in a blue moon. Maybe twice I know of in 15 years of fooling with these things, have I seen it. I had one do it and a bud of mine said he had one do it. That is not many based on all the cpus I have seen over the years and handling 1000's of 'customers' with issues.

When you take the cooler off to check straightness; take good close-ups of the top of cpu and the bottom of heatsink and post pictures. I had rather see pics of that than pics of case etc. We know the case layout. That does not mean we don't like to see rig pics, I just surely have pics i had a real desire to see. Again good luck to you man.

RGone...ster.

 

[reqlez]

okay something crazy happened. when I first tested the temp after re applying the paste it was at 70C during the 8K pass on prime95. I'm doing the test now and highest is at 63C !!! ambient temp the same ... okay i shall keep testing...

okay i think its because i left my door open with fresh wind coming in, sorry false alarm lol but i still think the temp dropped by about 2C overall I dont know if it was the paste or me cleaning the front fan filers.

I'm going to continue testing later this week. I also found out that lowering the VCORE any value below 1.45 will give me errors @ 3.9

 

[storm-chaser]

okay i think its because i left my door open with fresh wind coming in, sorry false alarm lol but i still think the temp dropped by about 2C overall I dont know if it was the paste or me cleaning the front fan filers.

I'm going to continue testing later this week. I also found out that lowering the VCORE any value below 1.45 will give me errors @ 3.9

Remember working with your Vcore you have up to 1.55 or higher with better cooling. Sounds like your case is just full of stuff to stop airflow. Clear out obvious pathways and loom the wiring.

 

[ATMINSIDE]

Hate to say it, but I think you simply lost the silicon lottery. My 1100T runs 1.35V (stock) at 3.8GHz, and 1.4V gets me to 4.2GHz.

On the 92mm cooler I have, it stays pretty cool at 1.4V

 

[BeepBeep2]

Hate to say it, but I think you simply lost the silicon lottery. My 1100T runs 1.35V (stock) at 3.8GHz, and 1.4V gets me to 4.2GHz.

On the 92mm cooler I have, it stays pretty cool at 1.4V

There is absolutely no way that you have minimum voltage 1.35v for 3.8 and 1.4v for 4.2...

Usually 0.04-0.06v is needed for a 100 MHz jump, but for you that would be .012 which is impossible...

@op,
If you can get 3.9 at 1.45v, (did you have 3.8 @ 1.4v before?) then what is the temperature at that speed/voltage?

 

[ATMINSIDE]

There is absolutely no way that you have minimum voltage 1.35v for 3.8 and 1.4v for 4.2...

Usually 0.04-0.06v is needed for a 100 MHz jump, but for you that would be .012 which is impossible...

I can CPU-Z it when I'm home, LLC is set at stock too.

 

[buffalowings]

Hate to say it, but I think you simply lost the silicon lottery. My 1100T runs 1.35V (stock) at 3.8GHz, and 1.4V gets me to 4.2GHz.

On the 92mm cooler I have, it stays pretty cool at 1.4V

I would say you are running a X4 if 1.40volts can get you to 4.2ghz. In fact, after you get to 3.9ghz, at 4.0 you are facing a very high heat/voltage wall.